As per 404.2C5
Am I to understand it that if there is an open room with a light that is controlled from 2 or more switches, each of those switches would not need a neutral at those switch if you can see all the switches that control that light?
If you install a wall or two and a switch or more is not in sight of the others, then those switches would require a neutral at the switch locations.
correct?
Reason I'm asking is, I think the canceling out of phase to neutral (skin ) isn't considered too bad in residential with wood and nm and plastic boxes, but I like to observe that "canceling out" type of wiring.
Unless someone sees a different way to get the neutrals at each switch, I'm hoping C5 applies.
senario: light/fan, light switched from 3 locations, fan switched from 1 location.
3 boxes left to right.
Single gang with 3 way on left (light), two gang with 4 way (light) and single pole (fan) in center, Single gang with 3 way on right (light).
Power into center 2 gang box, 3 wire center to left, 3 wire center to right, 3 wire to fan.
Can I wire these 3 and 4 ways the old fashion way (just switch legs) or do I need a neutral at the left and right 3 ways?
If I wired it a couple of different ways and went through the boxes with the neutral for the 3 ways, with the single pole I would have two neutrals (2-2wres) entering the fan box to the One neutral at the fan. Or another way have two neutrals together in the center box from different directions going up to the light/fan with 1- 3wire.
I could use a 4 wire from the center to the left and right single gang 3 ways to switch as normal and bring a neutral over but...
if this C5 applies I would rather not.
Nutty as it sounds, I have staples on my mind, I think everyone at the supply house just grabs and uses the staples (like me) but I'm thinking about it.
The staples... one type is rated for 2 conductor. The other is rated for 3 conductor.
Doesn't say anything about 2- 2 conductors or a 4 conductor or any combinations of...
The floor plan is open and theres an unfinished attic above so C2 might also apply. But If it was closed on top (no attic ) with all switches in sight would C5 apply.
(if it were closed and it does apply, I still can't see the rational of these switches in C5 not requiring the neutral?? How does seeing all the switches changes things if someone wants to add a timer or motion switch that needs a neutral?)
Sorry for the lengthy post... to such a simple question...
thank you
Am I to understand it that if there is an open room with a light that is controlled from 2 or more switches, each of those switches would not need a neutral at those switch if you can see all the switches that control that light?
If you install a wall or two and a switch or more is not in sight of the others, then those switches would require a neutral at the switch locations.
correct?
Reason I'm asking is, I think the canceling out of phase to neutral (skin ) isn't considered too bad in residential with wood and nm and plastic boxes, but I like to observe that "canceling out" type of wiring.
Unless someone sees a different way to get the neutrals at each switch, I'm hoping C5 applies.
senario: light/fan, light switched from 3 locations, fan switched from 1 location.
3 boxes left to right.
Single gang with 3 way on left (light), two gang with 4 way (light) and single pole (fan) in center, Single gang with 3 way on right (light).
Power into center 2 gang box, 3 wire center to left, 3 wire center to right, 3 wire to fan.
Can I wire these 3 and 4 ways the old fashion way (just switch legs) or do I need a neutral at the left and right 3 ways?
If I wired it a couple of different ways and went through the boxes with the neutral for the 3 ways, with the single pole I would have two neutrals (2-2wres) entering the fan box to the One neutral at the fan. Or another way have two neutrals together in the center box from different directions going up to the light/fan with 1- 3wire.
I could use a 4 wire from the center to the left and right single gang 3 ways to switch as normal and bring a neutral over but...
if this C5 applies I would rather not.
Nutty as it sounds, I have staples on my mind, I think everyone at the supply house just grabs and uses the staples (like me) but I'm thinking about it.
The staples... one type is rated for 2 conductor. The other is rated for 3 conductor.
Doesn't say anything about 2- 2 conductors or a 4 conductor or any combinations of...
The floor plan is open and theres an unfinished attic above so C2 might also apply. But If it was closed on top (no attic ) with all switches in sight would C5 apply.
(if it were closed and it does apply, I still can't see the rational of these switches in C5 not requiring the neutral?? How does seeing all the switches changes things if someone wants to add a timer or motion switch that needs a neutral?)
Sorry for the lengthy post... to such a simple question...
thank you