New grounded circuit to 3-prong range recept.

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TSET

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When I run a new grounded circuit to a new location for a range that has a flex cord with no separated ground, am I required by code to replace the pigtail with a four prong, and separate the ground from the N at the appliance? Or, according to 250.138 B, is a Tek Screw to the frame through a ring terminal connector on 6 feet of #10 stranded green wire which is snuck around the recpt. cover plate and attached to the #10 EGC, a proper solution? Then, if so, again, am I required to separate the bond in the appliance to avoid objectionable current on the ground?
I was planning to use a plastic double gang cut-in for the outlet box, so no grounding potential exists through the plate screw.
 
In 250.140 the exception states that only existing branch circuit installations can have the grounded and grounding conductors connected at the appliance. Your installation would not qualify under the exception therefore you will need to replace the cord with a 4 wire cord.
 
Electricians are responsible for the wiring of the circuit. You personally would not be required to change the cord to the appliance unless contracted to do so.

With that being said, if you did not change the cord, you may not get paid :)

I do not think it is a permitted installation to add the EGC the way you are describing. The first section number to come to mind is 110.3(B)
 
Re: New grounded circuit to 3-prong range recept.

TSET said:
I was planning to use a plastic double gang cut-in for the outlet box, so no grounding potential exists through the plate screw.
Click to expand...

I really cringed when I read that. There really aren't any 2-gang o/w plastic boxes with enough capacity to do this. Furthermore, you can't get a 8/3 or 6/3 into the box without mangling the heck out of it. And once it's in there, I have no clue how you'll get the device in without a pump jack and sledge hammer. Unless there's some ultra-deep old work plastic box that I'm not aware of.

Why not just surface mount it?
 
Peter
You're right there isn't enough room for the conductors, let alone the device. My mistake, I was thinking of the cubes in a side nailer as opposed to the cut-in. Surface mounting a metal box is a good option, and it allows for a spade or ring connector on the outside of the outlet.
Pierre
Check 250.138 B, is this a question of interpretation? If I zip tie the #10 to the cord, is it considered suitably protected?
Trevor
Still don't know about the separation of ground and neutral in the appliance, without that separation, am I not energizing the grounding system? How far must we go in this regard when providing a new circuit to an older factory wired appliance?
 
TSET said:
Peter
Surface mounting a metal box is a good option, and it allows for a spade or ring connector on the outside of the outlet.
Click to expand...

How about a premade range receptacle? That's ususally how it's done. I suppose you could use a metal box and raised cover, but why go to the trouble? :?:
 
Trevor
Still don't know about the separation of ground and neutral in the appliance, without that separation, am I not energizing the grounding system? How far must we go in this regard when providing a new circuit to an older factory wired appliance?
Click to expand...


The thing is once you run a new circuit it must be 4 wire. If the appliance can not be reconfigured as a 4 wire than you can't use it on your new circuit. The exception is only for existing circuits that only have 3 wires. Once you go to a new branch circuit the three wire appliance can not be used without changing it to a 4 wire appliance.
 
Install a pre-made 4-wire surface mounted range receptacle. Your wiring will mount directly to the device without the need for a box. You will need to change the cord or tell the homeowner that the cord must be changed to meet the new code.
 
And once you have changed the 3-wire to 4-wire, you have to unattach the bond in the dryer between neutral and case.

Karl
 
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