New service done today

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nickelec

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Changed out a 100 amp 13 space qo panel and apartment disconnect with this
That is a 200a MBP reliance with a 60a generator interlock . First time I put one of these in it's a pretty well made panel with all copper buss etc not bad IMO anyone have experience with the brand?
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I’m trying to imagine how you’ve connected this interlock to things. Is that the interlock breaker box to the left of the 200 amp panel? What is in the conduit leaving the top I am under the impression the flex contains conductors from a power inlet?
 
Are you joking or serious? I can't tell. If you are serious then I will say that it doesn't have to be fireproof.

I do have the smiley there... But, every job I've been on in that last twenty years calls for it so it stuck out when I first saw it.

The same routine; Fireproofed wood with two coats of grey.
 
I do have the smiley there... But, every job I've been on in that last twenty years calls for it so it stuck out when I first saw it.

The same routine; Fireproofed wood with two coats of grey.

Had a friend fail once, inspector wanted black.
 
Had a friend fail once, inspector wanted black.

Ok, what do ya’ll do when that panel is screwed to the studs in a stud bay? Use fireproof studs and two coats of gray/black? I think your AHJ’s have lost their minds.

Fireproof wood........is that a oxymoron!
Or do you mean fire rated.
 
I’m trying to imagine how you’ve connected this interlock to things. Is that the interlock breaker box to the left of the 200 amp panel? What is in the conduit leaving the top I am under the impression the flex contains conductors from a power inlet?
It's two family that mc is a riser to a sub in an apartment

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Changed out a 100 amp 13 space qo panel and apartment disconnect with this
That is a 200a MBP reliance with a 60a generator interlock . First time I put one of these in it's a pretty well made panel with all copper buss etc not bad IMO anyone have experience with the brand?
How about a pic with the cover off?
 
Did you upgrade the whole service from the meter? Im curious cause you said you used a MBP, is that just so you could use the reliance product to make the generator connection simpler?

How did you feed power from the inlet? Ive had bad experiences with the qaulity of the reliance inlet plugs. The boxes are tiny, and the sheet metal they're made of is pretty flimsy.

Is there a benefit to the reliance panel as opposed to just using the bolt on gen. interlock kits from the panel manufacturer's?

I've put in a few of those smaller reliance generator "sub panels". They wire up pretty good considering they're an afterthought.

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I had to upgrade outdoor meter pan as well the old one was only rated for 100a,

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Are you joking or serious? I can't tell. If you are serious then I will say that it doesn't have to be fireproof.

Fireproof ?????:rant:

If it were directly against the concrete it would need to be weatherproof but there is uni-strut behind it so there is a separation.

If you used weatherproof plywood directly against the concrete there would need to be a barrier between the plywood and the panel because the chemicals used in the new plywood is corrosive. Paint is normally acceptable but I just use a 1/4" layer of regular plywood over the weather proof stuff. Cost about 6-7 dollars but if you count your time it's cheaper than painting.
 
Why wood? Shallow unistrut would have been my choice.

Unistrut would have been good for this one but normally for residential panels there are a lot of NM cable and SE or SER that needs to be strapped to look neat and it's easier to staple to plywood. Also makes it easier to mount a GFCI protected receptacle under the panel ( which is normally a good idea ).
 
I have always been of the opinion that painted backboards made the job look more professional.
 
Ok, what do ya’ll do when that panel is screwed to the studs in a stud bay? Use fireproof studs and two coats of gray/black? I think your AHJ’s have lost their minds.

Fireproof wood........is that a oxymoron!
Or do you mean fire rated.


Doing Hospitals, Schools, etc. they always asked for;

Fireproof type paint first, then two coats of grey paint.

Why do I remember this? Because I had to take mounted panels down to paint after failing inspection! And, they are looking now so you have to remove the panel to get behind it to paint.

OK, off to the contract and specifications to see if it was in my section 16, or in the GC sections.

When this costs you money, you remember!
 
I have always been of the opinion that painted backboards made the job look more professional.

Why? An amateur would probably paint that backboard thinking that he is making the job look more professional.

A professional knows that the backboard is in an unfinished area of an apartment basement and no one is ever going to care if it's painted or not because nothing else is painted. That plywood will last as long as all the rest of the un-painted wood in the basement and there is no reason for it to last longer than the rest of the basement.

If the backboard was outside in the weather then painting would serve a purpose.
 
Are you joking or serious? I can't tell. If you are serious then I will say that it doesn't have to be fireproof.

I agree but if it's in contact with masonry it should be insect resistant. We always use some sort of pressure treated plywood and painted black. Since this on strut no IR required.
 
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