(Non-Code Related) Will a UK toaster oven work on a 240v US outlet?

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Ohio
Good day brothers,

Toaster Oven 220v : (220v-240v 50Hz-60Hz)

Will the above toaster oven sold in the UK work on us 240v considering a matching cord installed?

I see many saying "non-US" Our's went out and am looking for a 240v toaster oven to balance our load.
Thanks in advance!
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
It might work. It is hard to say with any certainty. Whether it would be safe or not is also hard to say with any certainty. If it is just heating elements it probably won't matter because the frequency just doesn't matter to the resistive heating elements. If there is a motor involved or Electronics of some sort it might or might not matter.

Why not just buy a regular us toaster?
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Good day brothers,

Toaster Oven 220v : (220v-240v 50Hz-60Hz)

Will the above toaster oven sold in the UK work on us 240v considering a matching cord installed?

I see many saying "non-US" Our's went out and am looking for a 240v toaster oven to balance our load.
Thanks in advance!
And why wouldn’t it? The label says it all.

although if it says non-us why would you?
 

winnie

Senior Member
Location
Springfield, MA, USA
Occupation
Electric motor research
Many devices are designed with the assumption that one of the supply leads is a grounded conductor. In the UK a standard residential circuit is 230V L-N. In the US it is 120V L-N. A US 240V circuit will be 240V L-L.

The device itself will probably function happily on 240V L-L, but if anything is using the grounded conductor as a reference or for safety reasons, that aspect will be defeated. Consider for example a standard 'screw shell' lamp holder. One of the supply terminals is the screw shell, and for safety reasons you want that screw shell to be connected to the grounded conductor. This is impossible with a 240V connection in the US.

-Jon
 

JFletcher

Senior Member
Location
Williamsburg, VA
Rather than change the cord, I would buy an adapter, if, and that's a big if, I wanted to put a Euro spec appliance in an American Kitchen.

You can probably buy it a 4 or 6 slice toaster at Walmart for cheaper than what an adapter alone plus shipping would cost. I have never disassembled a toaster, however I would hazard a guess that the wires are soldered on inside.

Am I wrong in assuming that any modification or replacement of the factory cord would violate the UL or other nrtl listing, and also any warranty?

Edited to add... Balancing what is normally a single phase or single leg load would not be necessary, unless you are running some sort of small solar, inverter, or generator. If your loads are so badly imbalanced that running a 1500 watt toaster oven for a few minutes is going to cause problems, you need to look at balancing your other loads, running another small appliance branch circuit, or upgrading your service.
 
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JFletcher

Senior Member
Location
Williamsburg, VA
Many devices are designed with the assumption that one of the supply leads is a grounded conductor. In the UK a standard residential circuit is 230V L-N. In the US it is 120V L-N. A US 240V circuit will be 240V L-L.

The device itself will probably function happily on 240V L-L, but if anything is using the grounded conductor as a reference or for safety reasons, that aspect will be defeated. Consider for example a standard 'screw shell' lamp holder. One of the supply terminals is the screw shell, and for safety reasons you want that screw shell to be connected to the grounded conductor. This is impossible with a 240V connection in the US.

-Jon

Hence why when lamps are supplied by 208, 240, or 480v, the requirement for the screw shell to be connected to the grounded conductor goes out the window. But yes you are correct with 120 or 277, the grounded conductor must be attached to the shell holder.

Edited to add... The voltage actually is irrelevant I believe the code language says that if there is a grounded conductor present, that it must be attached to the shell holder.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Will the above toaster oven sold in the UK work on us 240v considering a matching cord installed?
Yes, as I have adapted European devices to US power for several customers.

I . . . am looking for a 240v toaster oven to balance our load.
It would be more accurate to say a line-to-line connection will not contribute to unbalancing loading.
 

Besoeker

Senior Member
Location
UK
is 220 line to neut/gnd in the uk?
It's nominally 230V line to neutral. The neutral is often grounded at the distribution transformer. The distribution transformers in a residential area are typically around 1.5 MVA and ONAN. Connection is usually Dyn11 with the yn providing the 230V single phase supply.
I think the toaster would work OK on 120-0120 with the caveats given by others.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Hence why when lamps are supplied by 208, 240, or 480v, the requirement for the screw shell to be connected to the grounded conductor goes out the window. But yes you are correct with 120 or 277, the grounded conductor must be attached to the shell holder.

Edited to add... The voltage actually is irrelevant I believe the code language says that if there is a grounded conductor present, that it must be attached to the shell holder.
Correct.
 

Jraef

Moderator, OTD
Staff member
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
Occupation
Electrical Engineer
It says “non US” because it is not going to be UL listed and they have no intention on doing so. That costs a lot of money and their sales of a 220V toaster ovens in North America would be so pitifully low that they would never recoup the investment. Nobody (except you maybe?) has a small (15-20A) 240V receptacle in their kitchen. Maybe a commercial kitchen might, but I suspect you are not looking at a commercial grade unit.
 

mbrooke

Batteries Included
Location
United States
Occupation
Technician
It says “non US” because it is not going to be UL listed and they have no intention on doing so. That costs a lot of money and their sales of a 220V toaster ovens in North America would be so pitifully low that they would never recoup the investment. Nobody (except you maybe?) has a small (15-20A) 240V receptacle in their kitchen. Maybe a commercial kitchen might, but I suspect you are not looking at a commercial grade unit.


Count me in as having one. Once you try a 2,500 watt grill or panini press you never go back.
 
Location
Ohio

Commercial are way to expensive for us, with the panel being right behind the location in an open stud utility closet the power will be easy. Our cabin range is propane, and this takes $$$, so the electric toaster/countertop oven takes a lot of use.

Looking to balance our load, but also have a more steady heat cycle in the oven. Also, our cabin has 40amp 240v service, and not looking to upgrade as we never cross 27 (full electric B.B. heat and all).

My concern was UK having 220 single phase and US having 240 split phase. Will the 180 degree offset L-L matter on the circuitry?
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Commercial are way to expensive for us, with the panel being right behind the location in an open stud utility closet the power will be easy. Our cabin range is propane, and this takes $$$, so the electric toaster/countertop oven takes a lot of use.

Looking to balance our load, but also have a more steady heat cycle in the oven. Also, our cabin has 40amp 240v service, and not looking to upgrade as we never cross 27 (full electric B.B. heat and all).

My concern was UK having 220 single phase and US having 240 split phase. Will the 180 degree offset L-L matter on the circuitry?

It is a heating element load. I picture a very simple bimetal or capillary tube type thermostat with perhaps an idiot light included for the more expensive? ones.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Commercial are way to expensive for us, with the panel being right behind the location in an open stud utility closet the power will be easy. Our cabin range is propane, and this takes $$$, so the electric toaster/countertop oven takes a lot of use.

Looking to balance our load, but also have a more steady heat cycle in the oven. Also, our cabin has 40amp 240v service, and not looking to upgrade as we never cross 27 (full electric B.B. heat and all).

My concern was UK having 220 single phase and US having 240 split phase. Will the 180 degree offset L-L matter on the circuitry?
The phase angle when you only have two conductors is 180 regardless of what it may be to other conductors in the rest of the system.

Why do you say propane range takes $$$. By that I mean why would it take anything excessively more then electric energy, especially if you already have the tank and piping? Increase your electric demand by too much and you are sort of in the same boat with the electric source and/or distribution equipment. Not much gas (or electric) is really used for cooking, unless you are running a restaurant or something like that where you are always cooking, but you still have peak demand to consider to some extent when cooking.
 

norcal

Senior Member
It's nominally 230V line to neutral. The neutral is often grounded at the distribution transformer. The distribution transformers in a residential area are typically around 1.5 MVA and ONAN. Connection is usually Dyn11 with the yn providing the 230V single phase supply.
I think the toaster would work OK on 120-0120 with the caveats given by others.

Isn't the UK still 240V? Just called 230V because of the EU "harmonizing" voltages because some were 220V, & others were 240V, but nothing changed other then the allowable tolerances?



Just cringe worthy note, a relative had a German 220V bread slicer they powered it off the 30A dryer circuit.:thumbsdown:
 
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