(Non-Code Related) Will a UK toaster oven work on a 240v US outlet?

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mbrooke

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United States
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Technician
Where do you even find such an animal...restaurant supply?



Nope, international brand seller :thumbsup:


https://www.amazon.com/220-230-Frig...id=1524495580&sr=1-26&keywords=220+volt+grill

http://www.eastwestintl.com/proddetail.asp?pid=4872


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FVLNPT/


And one of these for the Kitchen :thumbsup:


https://www.leviton.com/en/products/bsrdp-i


The wattage cutoff for foreign items if higher than the US, ie a European circuit is rated 230 volts 16amps (3,680 watts) and British plugs 230 volts 13amps (2,990 watts).
 

mbrooke

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Isn't the UK still 240V? Just called 230V because of the EU "harmonizing" voltages because some were 220V, & others were 240V, but nothing changed other then the allowable tolerances?



Just cringe worthy note, a relative had a German 220V bread slicer they powered it off the 30A dryer circuit.:thumbsdown:

Correct.

Technically it is in most areas, with the actually measured voltage being 245-250. Most of mainland Europe is 220 volts- so the bright idea was to harmonize the two. They did the same with wire colors- don't get the Brits started.
 

Jraef

Moderator, OTD
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Count me in as having one. Once you try a 2,500 watt grill or panini press you never go back.

I may join you on that. I’m traveling right now and just experienced a 230V electric kettle; boils water almost twice as fast as my 120V one at home. That’s because here, this thing uses a 2500W heating element and can work on their 16A circuit, whereas at home we are typically limited to 1350W on small appliances like that on our 15A circuits. Makes a big difference in heating time.

Still, for the “non-electrician” vast majority of households out there, a 240V 15A outlet in the kitchen is rare and thereby the total available market for them is too small.
 

Besoeker

Senior Member
Location
UK
Correct.

Technically it is in most areas, with the actually measured voltage being 245-250. Most of mainland Europe is 220 volts- so the bright idea was to harmonize the two. They did the same with wire colors- don't get the Brits started.
Yep. Insanity doesn't have enough syllables.
 

mbrooke

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Location
United States
Occupation
Technician
I may join you on that. I’m traveling right now and just experienced a 230V electric kettle; boils water almost twice as fast as my 120V one at home. That’s because here, this thing uses a 2500W heating element and can work on their 16A circuit, whereas at home we are typically limited to 1350W on small appliances like that on our 15A circuits. Makes a big difference in heating time.

Still, for the “non-electrician” vast majority of households out there, a 240V 15A outlet in the kitchen is rare and thereby the total available market for them is too small.

Yup- now you know. Same for toasters, grills... even space heaters lol. Be careful there is no going back! :D


I agree, but you do get occasional DIY threads asking for just that.


BTW, if ordering say its for Europe or which ever plug you need. I've ordered 220 volt appliances only to get 120 a few times... Turns out people will purchase 220 volt appliances all the time without knowing it (not reading the title) only to find out they don't work. Often why the reviews are one star.
 
Location
Ohio
Nope, international brand seller :thumbsup:


https://www.amazon.com/220-230-Frig...id=1524495580&sr=1-26&keywords=220+volt+grill

http://www.eastwestintl.com/proddetail.asp?pid=4872


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FVLNPT/


And one of these for the Kitchen :thumbsup:


https://www.leviton.com/en/products/bsrdp-i


The wattage cutoff for foreign items if higher than the US, ie a European circuit is rated 230 volts 16amps (3,680 watts) and British plugs 230 volts 13amps (2,990 watts).

Thanks!! Thanks to all of you on here. Going to order one today and give it a try. Will change cord over to standard 20a 240v. Will share the results.
 

norcal

Senior Member


Property was sold many years ago so who knows? Some Einstein also thought it was a good idea to use 12/3 NM to run from the pressure switch to the pump controller & taped the bare EGC to use as either a line or load conductor, but the service panel was Zinsco/Sylvania too. The house has views of Lake Mendocino, is close to where Jim Jones had a "church", carpenter only put 1 nail on the ends of the trusses & winds took the roof off just after they moved in.


Now to get back on the topic.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
I may join you on that. I’m traveling right now and just experienced a 230V electric kettle; boils water almost twice as fast as my 120V one at home. That’s because here, this thing uses a 2500W heating element and can work on their 16A circuit, whereas at home we are typically limited to 1350W on small appliances like that on our 15A circuits. Makes a big difference in heating time.

Increases speed in which you can burn whatever you are cooking as well:D

Though lower overall energy level is what gets my wife more then anything. We have one of those "glass top" ranges. They don't heat as fast as a conventional electric range top element. This usually causes her to leave it on "hi" and then forget about it. Takes a while but eventually it gets too much heat and burns something before she notices.
 

mbrooke

Batteries Included
Location
United States
Occupation
Technician
We’ll just change the “harmonised voltage” legally allowable variance.

Our DNO’s (PoCo’s) are still installing 433/250V transforms. What annoys me is calculations are based on a fictitious value.

Yup. Its all imagination and wishful thinking. No POCO will go backwards in time.
 

Jraef

Moderator, OTD
Staff member
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
Occupation
Electrical Engineer
We’ll just change the “harmonised voltage” legally allowable variance.

Our DNO’s (PoCo’s) are still installing 433/250V transforms. What annoys me is calculations are based on a fictitious value.

Really we have a similar situation here. “Officially” (if there is such a thing) there are service voltage standards such as 120, 208, 240, 480 etc., but in reality when we “harmonized” on them back in the 1930s, there were already a lot of different utility standards such as 110 or 115, 220 or 230, 440 or 460 even 550 or 600. That’s why many people still refer to those older standards; they made it into the general lexicon (“220, 221, whatever it takes” is a now famous movie line quipped by people in our industry). But it’s not like those places ripped and replaced everything, the older systems that were 440 are still 440, and new services added in those areas are often still at that older standard. That’s why we in this group often emphasize being exact about what someone has rather than ASSuming. Even though it generally doesn’t make a difference in the equipment we use, it does indeed make a difference in calculations.
 

Tony S

Senior Member
The only time I’ve come across problems with voltage was at a company that was buying equipment from Belgium. The manufactures refused to issue a warranty unless the machines were fed at 380/220V. A new 1500kVA transformer had to be installed alongside the original 433/250V transformers.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Really we have a similar situation here. “Officially” (if there is such a thing) there are service voltage standards such as 120, 208, 240, 480 etc., but in reality when we “harmonized” on them back in the 1930s, there were already a lot of different utility standards such as 110 or 115, 220 or 230, 440 or 460 even 550 or 600. That’s why many people still refer to those older standards; they made it into the general lexicon (“220, 221, whatever it takes” is a now famous movie line quipped by people in our industry). But it’s not like those places ripped and replaced everything, the older systems that were 440 are still 440, and new services added in those areas are often still at that older standard. That’s why we in this group often emphasize being exact about what someone has rather than ASSuming. Even though it generally doesn’t make a difference in the equipment we use, it does indeed make a difference in calculations.
Most NEC calculations are done at "nominal voltages" of 120, 208, 240, 277, 347, 480 or 600.
 
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