Old GE Low Voltage Lighing

[Wahoo20]

I have recently ran into a old GE lighting controller panel. I have figured out that the master motor sequencer is bad. I found a part number Rms8 to replace it, but I was informed by my vendor that GE no longer sells these parts. I thought about just replacing it with rib latching relays but not sure why they had the relays triggering at different times with the master motor. He anyone has advice on these old systems please respond.

 

[al hildenbrand]

not sure why they had the relays triggering at different times with the master motor.

The fact that you have gotten this far indicates that the operation of the automatic part of the control is missed. The fact that it is old intimates that some, or many, of the controlled loads may have changed, or even forgotten.

I'd suggest that knowing the customer's expectations for what works when, coupled with the actual knowledge of what all the loads are that are, in reality, controlled by the system will drive the eventual solution.

The old system was expensive when it went in, and required "programming" of it's electromechanical adjustments based upon the customer's desires. A modern solid state timer / controller essentially requires the same effort of "programming".

 

[gar]

130416-1430 EDT

Wahoo20:

Are the GE latching relays good or not? If they are good, then the question is what is the logical control that is required.

Besides the rotary programmable control are there individual wall switches to control whatever the loads are. If these switches exist, then do they all function as expected. If so that implies the relays are OK.

Can you determine what was the logical purpose of the rotary programmer.

You can greatly reduce peak inrush current by not turning on a large number of incandescent lamps simultaneously.

I believe GE still makes RR relays and controls for them. Unfortunately the gang box frames for mounting the old RR relays will not accept the new RR relays because of a center to center spacing change. New plates would be required with the slightly greater spacing.

What is the cost of an RIB latching relay? What kind of control functions can they provide?

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[Wahoo20]

The latching relays are good RR7. I'm not sure why there is a rotary controller. I was thinking it would be to much draw on the 24v if I paralled the 24v to each relay. I could do that and not even worry about having a controller. I have never ran into this system, its way before my time, I was hoping to get some expert advise on how I could proceed. Right now the way the switch works, it triggers each relay with a time delay in between. But the motor is bad so you have to hit the switch multiple times to do each row of lights.

 

[gar]

130417-0947 EDT

Wahoo20:

Are there any individual manual wall switches? If there are, then you need isolated contacts to each RR7 from the replacement for the rotary switch.

If the rotary switch was just a way to turn on and off a large number of loads approximately at the same time, but reduce load inrush current on the electrical system, or to reduce the load on the 24 V supply, then you need some sort of sequencer.

How many total RR7s are switched by this rotary switch?

A sample of one RR7 has a per coil resistance of about 55 ohms. DC minimum voltage to change state is about 22 V, or about 0.4 A. A more normal DC voltage to use would likely be 30 V DC. In my house I use 38 V DC, the peak voltage of a GE transformer for the RR stuff. Has worked well for 46 years. My relays are the older RR low number.

Where do you go from here. If all the relays are good, and you say they are, then what does GE have that does the equivalent of the rotary switch? That would be the simplest. If not, then the number of relays that need to be switched becomes important along with whether or not there are any individual wall switches.

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