old rv trailer

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enireh

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Canyon Lake,TX
I have a 1951 rv trailer and would like to make it safe. at the service entrance is a two wire male twist lock connection. Could I feed that out of a grounded service panel with a GFCI main breaker and would that help? What about grounding the frame of the trailer also?

thank you
 
I have a 1951 rv trailer and would like to make it safe. at the service entrance is a two wire male twist lock connection. Could I feed that out of a grounded service panel with a GFCI main breaker and would that help? What about grounding the frame of the trailer also?

thank you

I do not see why you could not connect an equipment ground to the frame

and I would say adding GFCI protection would be a good safety measure
 
I have a 1951 rv trailer and would like to make it safe. at the service entrance is a two wire male twist lock connection. Could I feed that out of a grounded service panel with a GFCI main breaker and would that help? What about grounding the frame of the trailer also?

thank you

Is any of the RV wiring grounded, or 2 wire also? Does it have its own fuse/breaker panel, or just rely on the OCPD of the house/site feed wiring?

If this RV is still mobile you'd want to change the twist lock to a standard 120V 30A RV twistlock plug, otherwise you wont be able to plug in at any campsite, and if you want to ground the frame, you'll have to change the plug. A GFCI main breaker would be prudent, and grounding the frame also prudent; if there were a fault to the frame, and no current draw, the GFCI wouldnt trip until a load were on the circuit, whether that be an appliance or a human being.
 
Is any of the RV wiring grounded, or 2 wire also? Does it have its own fuse/breaker panel, or just rely on the OCPD of the house/site feed wiring?

If this RV is still mobile you'd want to change the twist lock to a standard 120V 30A RV twistlock plug, otherwise you wont be able to plug in at any campsite, and if you want to ground the frame, you'll have to change the plug. A GFCI main breaker would be prudent, and grounding the frame also prudent; if there were a fault to the frame, and no current draw, the GFCI wouldnt trip until a load were on the circuit, whether that be an appliance or a human being.
I DNR seeing a twistlock at an RV campsite, 30 or otherwise.
 
Is any of the RV wiring grounded, or 2 wire also? Does it have its own fuse/breaker panel, or just rely on the OCPD of the house/site feed wiring?

If this RV is still mobile you'd want to change the twist lock to a standard 120V 30A RV twistlock plug, otherwise you wont be able to plug in at any campsite, and if you want to ground the frame, you'll have to change the plug. A GFCI main breaker would be prudent, and grounding the frame also prudent; if there were a fault to the frame, and no current draw, the GFCI wouldnt trip until a load were on the circuit, whether that be an appliance or a human being.

The standard for 125v 30A RV's is a straight blade device NEMA TT-30 (Not twist lock)

Also be aware you can not back feed a GFCI breaker to make it a main (The magic smoke comes out).

I fed 1/2 of a 4 circ panel with the camp ground feed then used a 30a GFI to feed the other 1/2. This way all breakers installed on the second half are GFI protected. I just use the non GFCI side for feeding a driver for LED lighting.

I then have a GFCI protected circuit for the AC and a circuit for receptacles.
 
I have a 1951 rv trailer and would like to make it safe. at the service entrance is a two wire male twist lock connection. Could I feed that out of a grounded service panel with a GFCI main breaker and would that help? What about grounding the frame of the trailer also?

thank you

Best bet is to make it a 3 wire (L/N/G) 120V system. it should not be all that hard to convert it over.

personally I would be putting any GFCI in the RV so that when it is moved someplace else it still offers protection.
 
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