old, stuck, type s fuses

[billmc]

troublshooting in 50 plus year old residences I sometimes find type s fuses (plug fuses ) that are
badly stuck. When replaced ,the sockets , although not badly corroded, are bare metal dry to the extent that a new fuse will not seat. A small amount of silicone lubricant would solve the problem. Before trying this I checked the 2003
code, plus all my handbooks and found nothing. Next I checked with the local jurisdiction . They seemed to think this was a first.The ruling was that both the lubricant and the equipment have to be listed for this use. Next I made inquiry to a major lube supplier and got no response. Anyone else interested in this?

 

[al hildenbrand]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

I've had seating problems with the S Type fuse in the S Type adapter. I've found that almost every time it has been small pieces of the plastic threads on the inside of the adapter. The pieces jam against the fuse threads, on occasion preventing the fuse from seating.

The fix that has worked for me is using a straw, or even a scrap of 14-2 NMB cable sheath, to blow through after inserting to the bottom of the socket. Dislodges & removes the bits, clearing the threads, every time.

If the adapter is too badly damaged generally the fuse won't hold, the only recourse is to replace the adapter.

I've found, especially in run down apartment buildings with tiny services, that there is a history of attempting to use larger fuses in the adapter, and that in these situations the damage to the threads is the greatest.

 

[peter d]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

A hammer works quite well too.

 

[petersonra]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

I can't imagine anyone asking such a question. IMO the lubricant is not part of the installation.

Would you need to ask permission to use a paper towel to clean the outside of a dirty PB? Would the paper towel need to be listed for use in cleaning a PB? Of course not.

BUT, if you ask the nitwit bureaucrats a question like this they will almost certainly give you an idiotic answer like this.

 

[al hildenbrand]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

BillMC,

Just to be clear, are you talking about the threads between the S Type fuse and S Type adapter? Or are you talking about the threads between the adapter and the fuse center Edison Fuse socket?

 

[bthielen]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

I don't know for sure but would an electronic contact cleaner work to clean the sockets and would that be a safe and acceptable method? Using just any old lubricant does increase the risk for flare up if it happens to be flammable. Maybe this is where the question of being listed comes in.

Bob

 

[al hildenbrand]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

For what it's worth, there are light bulb lubricants.

Take a look at BulbEZE.

 

[petersonra]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

Originally posted by al hildenbrand:
For what it's worth, there are light bulb lubricants.

Take a look at BulbEZE.

but is it UL listed?

 

[jim dungar]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

I don't believe UL lists any grease/lubricant/solvent.

I looked at the website for CRC Industries and they make no mention of UL listings. I also looked at Dow Corning and their data sheets for electrical "grease" do not mention UL.

 

[billmc]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

Thanks for the lively interest in stuck type s fuses. To answer Al hilderbrandt my problem is with the threads on the fuse insert, not the edison adaptor. The bulb ease lube is something Im going to check out, thanks. A friend at COM ED meanwhile gave me a sample of general electrics "silicone electric compound ", no product number on the tube, but available from G E Silicone products div, Waterford New York 516-237-3330. COM ED crews use this on 12KV line disconnects, but of course utilities are exempt from much of the code.For a happy life Im going to comply fully with my local jurisdiction.

 

[brian wisemiller]

I use powdered graphite , the kind used for locks.

 

[al hildenbrand]

I'd be concerned about using graphite.

Graphite is conductive. If the fuse is disconnected, I'd be concerned that the graphite will establish a conductive path between the screw shell of the S-type fuse adapter and the connection to the panel bus.

To be clear, this us my opinion.

 

[tshea]

I use powdered graphite , the kind used for locks.

That's a new way to bypass that pesky 15A fuse that always blows out when my toater, microwave, refrigerator, and space heater are plugged in to the outlet by the sink.

 

[peteo]

Have seen dielectric grease used by some machine tool manufacturers. They use it to protect 240V splices. The same goop they sell locally for putting in sprinkler wire connectors. It's easy for new production, you just say it's approved for your machine and put it on the bill of materials. "For a happy life Im going to comply fully with my local jurisdiction." Agreed. I suppose it would be labeled if it's okay for this or that...
The fancy flux cleaners use petrochemicals, but what you're paying for is to leave no residue with these products. Some are made to use in keyboards but in an electric panel you won't have issues with damage due to static generation. Of course, rust is dissolved best using an oily product like WD40. Regular isopropyl alcohol sprayed on can clean off almost any solvent and leaves no residue. Most bulb manufacturers reccomend using it if you've handled a halogen bulb.

 

[brian wisemiller]

just the threads now, lets not overdo it.

 

[brian wisemiller]

If you were to squirt half the tube in the fuseholder then the graphite would act as a conductor. But lets hope the tech were a bit more dexterious and apply most to the fuse and not at the back of the socket.

 

[al hildenbrand]

just the threads now, lets not overdo it.

I watched a 120 volt arc sustained on a carbon trail across 3/4" of the surface of bakelite, just a couple years ago.

This was in a 60 Amp 120/240 volt fuse service center that had already arced enough to blow the main fuse on that leg. I'd tested things out, finding one leg down, I replaced the fuse and plugged it in.

Moving light came out from behind the plug fuse holders.

I spent some time studying the arc trail left in the carbon blacking that I discovered on the bakelite when I later autopsied the panel.

I'd not have believed it if I hadn't watched it.

I don't know what laid down the carbon initially, but it was distinctly carbon and not metal spray.

Upshot, I'd be real leary about leaving graphite in a fuse adapter.

 

[tshea]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

I've had seating problems with the S Type fuse in the S Type adapter. I've found that almost every time it has been small pieces of the plastic threads on the inside of the adapter. The pieces jam against the fuse threads, on occasion preventing the fuse from seating.

The fix that has worked for me is using a straw, or even a scrap of 14-2 NMB cable sheath, to blow through after inserting to the bottom of the socket. Dislodges & removes the bits, clearing the threads, every time.

If the adapter is too badly damaged generally the fuse won't hold, the only recourse is to replace the adapter.

I've found, especially in run down apartment buildings with tiny services, that there is a history of attempting to use larger fuses in the adapter, and that in these situations the damage to the threads is the greatest.

I agree entirely with al. I've been in the same situation and "clearing" the shell with a straw is most effective. If the inside threads of the adapter are boogered up to much, the adapter gets replaced.

BTW what method do you use to replace the adapter? I have this neat little tool that looks like an ankh. It has a cutter, and teh two ends are sized to unscrew the adapter and pull the adapter out.
I also have developed the skill to remove the adapter with a small flat tip screwdriver and lineman's pliers.

Wish I had a picture of the time I found a 30A fuse duct taped into a 15A Type S adapter.

 

[al hildenbrand]

Re: old, stuck, type s fuses

Wish I had a picture of the time I found a 30A fuse duct taped into a 15A Type S adapter.

LOL
That tool sounds neat.

I use my diagonals to nibble the ring out, insert the fuse and pull out the sleave, use a knife tip to pop the spring and then spin out the shell. Repetition has made me quick.

 

[brian wisemiller]

al, thanks for the eye opener....excuse me.... i need to call the "master" that taught me that....have a chat....