Outlets in wainscotting...

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sparkydon

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I am working on a house (T&M) where the customer is using wainscotting all over the house, even in seemingly nonsensical locations...Closets, laundry...

The finish carpenter asked me to stub all of my recep wires in the wall, and cut boxes in after the wainscot installation using old work boxes to accomodate the unknown layout of the wainscot planks. they will hang plywood horizontally to catch the vertical planking, and make exagerated cutouts where the recepts are so the old work boxes only have to grab onto 3/4" of material as opposed to 1 1/4"...

I hate using old work boxes when I don't have to, and this requires virtually every recep in the house to be cut in. My AHJ said he would come back a second time to inspect EGC makeup for no extra inspection charge, so that's not a problem.

My problem is that the insulation (spray in cellulose) in the walls will get wrecked when I have to fish the wires out ouf the walls, and it also means I have to be there while this dude is putting the trim up to make sure wires don't get hit etc... The GC told me this was going to be a "quick and easy" house, but I can't be there to hold this trim guys hand and make sure he doesn't bury wires.

Anybody have foolproof experience with this type of installation?
 
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I personally would just rough in with new work boxes and let it fly, the other option is rough the receptacles in the baseboard.

I seriously doubt they used old work boxes on these...
220px-Wainscotting.jpg
 
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stickboy1375 said:
I personally would just rough in with new work boxes and let it fly, the other option is rough the receptacles in the baseboard.
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I don't understand this. It's a T&M job, if this is what the customer wants, why not comply and make the customer satisfied?
 
It might be easier to install boxes sideways in the baseboard. At least that way you would have your boxes in and tied in (unless it's to late). No way this is a quick and easy house, hope you're getting more than usual as it's a lot more trouble to come back and cut every receptacle in the house in later. Especially with that foam insulation. Good luck.
oops I see it's T&M. Still.
 
Why not precut your penatrations ? The carpentor is better at this trade making you look good, then you are... He knows he's got to take his time to work with you.

Cut the hole, cut the foam, no box, drill'n down hopefully... Fish and wait for their open'n, they do it all the time to us... just no box this time ...

Fool proof - no, Best Call, don't know ... and your thinking to do what ?
 
hardworkingstiff said:
I don't understand this. It's a T&M job, if this is what the customer wants, why not comply and make the customer satisfied?
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He wasn't asked by the homeowner, he was asked by the carpenter who is probably to lazy to cut out all the boxes by himself...
 
fisherelectric said:
It might be easier to install boxes sideways in the baseboard.
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Was there ever a requirement that if recept. are installed in a baseboard, they be installed with the grounded conductor on top/grounding facing left?

I have some vague recollection of this...but don't know if it is/was:
- code
- myth
- "someone's opinion"

Anyone?
 
Depending on the wainscoat, why not just box it like normal but hold your box out another 3/8"? The only thing you have to be sure of is the trim design on the wainscoat. If they are going for a "boxed" look on the surface I would get with the carpenter and get dimensions, slap a 2x4 in their and box it in the center. I have done it the way you are proposing and it wasn't all that bad either. Never had to deal with the spray in insulation on interior walls though
 
When I don't know the finish depth of a wall, I use the carlon adjustable boxes. They adjust after the finish, using a screw. I use them all the time for roughing in outlet boxes for a microwave cord that is in a cabenet.
 
hardworkingstiff said:
I don't understand this. It's a T&M job, if this is what the customer wants, why not comply and make the customer satisfied?
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I realize this is T&M, but would you really want to back to a house and cut in 50-80 receptacles?
 
Just leave the carpenter an old work box and let him cut in the boxes where he wants them. Tell him to make sure there is no stud behind the place he wants to cut in the receptacle.

To cut them in after the install would be insane. Had a carpenter ask me to retrofit 20 H& cans in an outdoor soffit. I told him it was his job to cut out the cans and that he should get out of the business if he doesn't like his job.
 
Whats the big deal here? :-? :-? If you are being paid accordingly just do it. Is the wainscot beadboard as shown in the earlier pictures or is it raised panel? Huge difference between the two.

Talk about easy money. Rotzip, a stool and off you go.
 
The wainscott job must be a PITA for the carpenter, and he wants to turn his PITA situation into your PITA situation.

The best defense is a good offense.
 
frankft2000 said:
When I don't know the finish depth of a wall, I use the carlon adjustable boxes. They adjust after the finish, using a screw. I use them all the time for roughing in outlet boxes for a microwave cord that is in a cabenet.
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Excellent, Forgot all about those! :rolleyes:
 
celtic said:
Was there ever a requirement that if recept. are installed in a baseboard, they be installed with the grounded conductor on top/grounding facing left?

I have some vague recollection of this...but don't know if it is/was:
- code
- myth
- "someone's opinion"

Anyone?
Click to expand...

It's not a requirement. It is an IEEE White Book recommendation for Hospitals and Health Care facilities.
 
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