over counter lighting

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

reel-break

Member
Due to lack of experiance with these little hockey puck type halogen lights I have the following questions. Is ok to place the xfmer 120/12 in the attic space and run cord to switch.I`d put it in a box of some sort I am curious about heat generation?Any recommendations welcome.
 
mikeames

mikeames

Senior Member
Location
Gaithersburg MD
Occupation
Teacher - Master Electrician - 2017 NEC
Re: over counter lighting

Depends on the listing of the fixture. The ones you can get at HD are not ment to have a remote dimmer nor can they be put on a dimming circuit. "low quality" "Hampton Bay Brand" Progress has a nice set up that is listed for the purpose you are describing. Ofcourse the cost is more as well. They also sell line voltage halogen "puck lights" as well.
 
electricmanscott

electricmanscott

Senior Member
Location
Boston, MA
Re: over counter lighting

Prepare for a pain in the rump. I wouldn't be concerned about the tranformer generating heat. The attic will be hot anyway. I am not sure if this would have an adverse affect on the transformer. If I have a reason to use puck lights I ususally mount the transformer in the basement or in a cabinet. The wiring supplied with the pucks can not be run inside the wall nor can your standard issue lamp cord that most people seem to use. You would be better off going with a fixture that has an integrated transformer or one that is 120 volt.
 
H

hank a.

New member
Location
Illinois
Re: over counter lighting

I will not install Halogen puck lights anymore, they are such a pain and they are too fragile. The manufacturers are coming out with some great strip light fixtures, see your supply house, that can be hardwired, and will meet code.

Hank
 
goldstar

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Re: over counter lighting

As others have already mentioned most of these "hockey puck" fixtures are not the highest quality products. Part of the problem is that the bulbs generate a lot of heat but the contacts where the pins plug in are usually aluminum or some type of alloy and have a tendancy to corrode due to arcing. If you're only installing one or two of these fixtures they make a small transformer that you can mount on a 4" square box cover. If the cabinets have a crown moulding at the top you can usually hide the 4" square box on top of the cabinet. That way you can bring your 120 vac circuit into the box and make your connections there.

The next problem you have is finding low voltage cable suitable for installation inside the walls. I've used 12 guage landscape wire many times in the past but I've since been advised that this is not acceptable. There is an approved cable made that one of my supply houses has in stock that is jacketed. I haven't used it yet but it's about 26 cents a foot.

Finally, if you're installing several of these fixtures and you need a larger transformer you're better off running your wires (individually) down to a masonry wall and mounting the transformer there. The transformer has a tendency to hum when activated. If you mount it to a rafter or a joist the hum will be magnified when you turn on the circuit.

Hope this helps.
 
S

s.d. cronk

Member
Location
Ohio
Re: over counter lighting

Article 411, Lighting systems 30v or less,
411.4 states that lighting systems shall not be installed where concealed or extended through a building unless a wiring method in Chapter 3 is used. The standard low voltage wiring everybody is refering to usually consists of a CL2 or CL3 type which is located in Chapter 7 not Chapter 3 Therefore if you want to install the transformer in a remote location you need to use the correct wiring method or run the wiring exposed. At least that what I think, I am sure we will get conflicting views on this subject.
 
L

luke warmwater

Senior Member
Re: over counter lighting

We primarily install the Seagull "Ambience" system. We also install the Juno "Track 12" system.
Phil, what is this low voltage wire that is listed to be concealed??? We install hundreds of feet of under and above cabinet lights, and the wire we use depends on what jurisdiction we are in.
One jurisdiction actually allows lamp cord as long as it is a straight run verticle to the basement. For the rest, it's NMSC. The problem with NM is the connections. Above the cabinet is usually no problem, but under the cabinet is a different story. No one wants to see a gob of wirenuts and butt splices just don't crimp good to solid conductors.
Our supply house has a 2-wire without ground NM for this, sold by the thousand foot. If only it was stranded.
 
goldstar

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Re: over counter lighting

Todd,

I haven't used the wire yet nor do I know what it looks like or who makes it. I'll find out the next time I'm at that supply house and post it to the forum.

Phil
 
L

luke warmwater

Senior Member
Re: over counter lighting

Scott, I know that the NEC does not allow lampcord in the wall, But there is one jurisdiction that we work in where the AHJ will allow it. Their ruling, not mine. They have a list of ammendments to the NEC. Another is no bubble covers required.
We almost always remote locate the transformers in basement. Never have a call-back because of noisy transformer.
I have pix of a job that one tract home co. did of undercabinet lights. 120v.to 300w. transformer in basement, then Cat3 wire ran in wall to (2) switches. From each switch, Cat3 to each section of undercabinet lights. One section had 160w. total and the other had 80w. This was in a GC's personal house. His complaint was that one side was very dim. Their connections at the fixtures were to touch the wires together and wrap them with electrical tape. This installation passed inspection.
We fixed this mess by adding a second transformer, feeding switches with 120v., switch leg to each transformer, from load side of each transformer with NM to fixtures.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top