Parking Lot Pole Bases

[A/A Fuel GTX]

Regarding parking lot light installs, is the EC usually required to install the concrete bases or is that the responsibility of the concrete guy? Also, is the PVC and subsequent stub ups through the concrete tube installed before or after the tubular forms are set?

 

[TxShocker]

Can only speak for myself, Sometimes I include the pole bases and sometimes I do not. Either way my proposal states either pole bases included or pole bases are not included. As for the stub ups I always stub mine up before the tube is set in place.

 

[A/A Fuel GTX]

Can only speak for myself, Sometimes I include the pole bases and sometimes I do not. Either way my proposal states either pole bases included or pole bases are not included. As for the stub ups I always stub mine up before the tube is set in place.

How deep does the concrete usually go beyond ground level? Assuming a 24" burial depth for the PVC, just wondering how they come in afterwards and set the tube forms without disturbing the conduit?

 

[iwire]

Regarding parking lot light installs, is the EC usually required to install the concrete bases or is that the responsibility of the concrete guy? Also, is the PVC and subsequent stub ups through the concrete tube installed before or after the tubular forms are set?

Yes, no, never, always, sometimes.

It really depends on the contracts.

 

[mgmelec]

we usually set ours below the frost line which is about 3' here. it is sometimes spec'd to be deeper. on one job the tubes were spec'd to have rebar cages installed.

 

[A/A Fuel GTX]

we usually set ours below the frost line which is about 3' here. it is sometimes spec'd to be deeper. on one job the tubes were spec'd to have rebar cages installed.

Ok so if you have a tube form set to a depth of 3' with a rebar cage inside, how do you get in and out of it with PVC that is at a 24" depth?

 

[Cow]

We do all of our pole bases.

Ok so if you have a tube form set to a depth of 3' with a rebar cage inside, how do you get in and out of it with PVC that is at a 24" depth?

Set the tube and then install the cage. We break up some cinder blocks, etc to throw in the bottom of the tube to keep the cage from sitting on the dirt. Then drill holes in the side of the tube at 24" deep and stub your pipe through. Glue a 90 on a short stub of pvc and reach inside the tube and glue it onto the stub coming through the side. I'd recommend rigid 90's for pulling.

If you need to install receps in the light pole base just tie wire a masonry box to the sonno tube as tight as you can so it stays tight to the tube.

 

[tkb]

Ok so if you have a tube form set to a depth of 3' with a rebar cage inside, how do you get in and out of it with PVC that is at a 24" depth?

Drill a hole.

 

[A/A Fuel GTX]

Drill a hole.

I was afraid it was that simple

 

[cowboyjwc]

Doesn't really matter to us inspectors as the pipe, cage and bolts are all going to be there when we get there no matter who does what.

 

[btharmy]

I only set my "tube" about 6" below grade. This allows the concrete to be poured into the hole, not into a tube in a hole. This way it is stable. You don't have to rely on the backfill around the tube to hold your pole base stable. Not to mention that the conduits enter the pole base well below the bottom of the tube. for a base that is 6' tall (4' in the ground 2' above ground) the tube is cut 30" long.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

I did one job where some of the pole bases were in our contract and others were in the GCs contract. I have no idea why and the GC paid us t&m to put the ones that were in their contract.

 

[220/221]

I do my own bases.

Drill 6' hole

Drop in 8' cage

Install conduit.

Set 36" tube over cage/conduit. 2x4 form is drywall screwed to the sonotube from the outside, about 6" from bottom. Cage is in there. Just needed to be pulled up a bit.

Pour concrete, beat around tube with softball bat, tamp concrete, rough finish top, set bolts, finish/strip sonotube

 

[220/221]

Couple more pics

 

[John120/240]

I'd guess that you have done one or two before this one pictured?

 

[kwired]

I only set my "tube" about 6" below grade. This allows the concrete to be poured into the hole, not into a tube in a hole. This way it is stable. You don't have to rely on the backfill around the tube to hold your pole base stable. Not to mention that the conduits enter the pole base well below the bottom of the tube. for a base that is 6' tall (4' in the ground 2' above ground) the tube is cut 30" long.

That is my line of thinking also. Why would you want to set the tube clear down to bottom of hole then have to rely on backfill to stabilize the thing. Might as well put a steel base in the ground if you are going to have to compact the backfill to stabilize it. The concrete is an advantage because it flows into the hole and takes little effort compared to dirt to make sure it is filling the hole properly. If your hole does not have stable walls you have a problem with stability of the base with either method.

 

[220/221]

I'd guess that you have done one or two before this one pictured?

Yeah.

I'll admit that, the first job I did, maybe 18 years ago, (6 poles I think) I dropped the tubes all the way into the holes and had to fight the conduits. Wasted time AND materials.


This was the most interesting on so far. I plucked the bases and relocated them. I had no idea if it would work..... but it did,

 

[jmellc]

Ok so if you have a tube form set to a depth of 3' with a rebar cage inside, how do you get in and out of it with PVC that is at a 24" depth?

PVC goes through rebar, centers up & extends above finished surface. Cut a slot in your sonotube & it will slide over the conduit. Slot should be slightly more than distance from highest conduit to bottom of hole.

You have PVC running 24 inches, stubbing up in center. 4 or 5 foot depth or whatever on concrete pedestal. Dig hole deep as needed. Center stub ups, extend above surface level. Cut a slot in sonotube to slide over conduits. BE SURE PVC IS WELL GLUED, A SLIPPED COUPLING MEANS A CONDUIT PLUGGED WITH CONCRETE.

Your light should have a template, to properly center conduit(s) and set anchor bolts in right position. Use template to make a wood frame or use unistrut. Nut anchor bolts to frame and lay frame across sonotube. Tie wire frame to edges of sonotube. Be sure conduits are above surface level & well taped or capped. Coat nuts & bolts with grease or oil to keep concrete from adhering. After concrete is poured, double check frame for alignment & plumb. Also, if using square poles, be sure bolts are aligned for needed alignment of poles.

Follow all specs on size & length of anchor bolts. Use longer bolts if desired, but never shorter ones or thinner ones.

If rebar is to go into pedestal, it goes in along with stubbing up conduits, in order as needed. Last 1 I did, in 2002, we had a 6 foot deep pedestal, 5 ft in ground, 1 ft above, 4 ft diameter, with 3 or 4 rebar rings. We drove bars into ground, tied rings to uprights, put on sonotube, placed frame.

 

[jmellc]

A couple of you had a point with the fill issue of tube all the way down. I was taught that a tube not all the way down would wobble too much on being filled and may wind up badly crooked. Was that a problem for anyone?

 

[hurk27]

A couple of you had a point with the fill issue of tube all the way down. I was taught that a tube not all the way down would wobble too much on being filled and may wind up badly crooked. Was that a problem for anyone?

That is why there is 2x4's screwed around it in post 13, I also do this, landscaped mounts I go from flush to 6" out of the ground, but in parking lots where or trucks can hit them, larger bases and 3' out of the ground, I have also done square form bases 4' high so stone can be put on them, looked nice.