Patching holes in a panel

[bjp_ne_elec]

What's the "proper" way to patch holes in a panel? I've seen KO reducers and I've seen some "fine metal work" that would make Boyd Coddington proud - but really, is there any thing that is written that covers "do's" and "don'ts"? I've seen 4" or 4/11 covers bolted down and re-punched - so I've seen a few derivations.

I'm not going around knocking extra holes in, but once in a while you run in to a situation that needs a solution. Recently I get a call to just do a walk-through and point out any issues that would be of concern of a professional home inspector - the ones that come around and normally represent the buyer. This was the owner and he was pretty sure some things "weren't right" - is the way he put it.

Well first thing that got my attention was the 2" KO that was out of the top and had two NM's running though it and terminated in the panel. No connector - and one of them didn't even have the outer jacket of the NM providing a little bit of extra protection. So how would one properly fix this situation, and meet an inspector coming in and signing off on the fix?

The only other thing I found was a piece of NM coming up towards the bottom of the panel - and I think, due to the fact there were no more 1/2" KO's - the solution was to just put a cord cap on the end of the NM and plug it in the duplex that is mounted just under the panel. Must be the "violator" (and after conversing, I'm pretty convinced it was the guy that's having me check the things he thinks "weren't right") didn't know there was a listed connector that you can put two NM's in to. Actually I think the issue on top may have been for the same reason.

Thanks

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I find the easiest is the KO Seals. They come in all sizes. If there is an irregular cut in the panel I have seen 2 4"sq covers, one inside and one outside the panel with a nut and bolt thru them.

I have also seen duct tape etc but I would not recommend them. KO seals seems to be the standard

 

[bjp_ne_elec]

Dennis - the KO seals are my first choice, unless I'm looking to get something else in that space. But now due to the length of the NM's, I pretty much have to keep the NM's coming straight in - as I've already checked, and there is not slack to move them much. So the punched cover is one solution that I've used once or twice - wanted to see what other people have had accepted.

Thanks

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have used reducing washers with romex connectors. There isn't much choice. Two NM cables in one connector and get a pair of 2" to 1/2" reducing washers.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I guesss you could use a pipe as a sleeve if you can meet the other requirements when using conduit.

 

[mdshunk]

Reducing washers and reducing bushings...

The only other choice is a new panel can.


Grounding continuity is what you need to be concerned with.

 

[kbsparky]

Take an octogon box blank plate, with a 1/2" knockout in it. Install a proper romex connector in the knockout.

Then, mount the plate over the large gaping hole, using a couple of TEK screws. You should be able to accomplish this from the inside of the panel.

If the cover is too large, trim some off one edge using a pair of heavy-duty aviation snips, or a sawzall.

We encounter this problem about once a month, and the inspector-critters approve of this method of repair.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Take an octogon box blank plate, with a 1/2" knockout in it. Install a proper romex connector in the knockout.
Then, mount the plate over the large gaping hole, using a couple of TEK screws. You should be able to accomplish this from the inside of the panel.

You must like to work hard. That's an emergency setup for me. Reducers are easier and cheaper.

 

[mdshunk]

I show the last 2" x 3/4" reducing bushing I bought was just shy of 26 dollars. That's the only compliant way I know about. Cover plates with Tek screws? Maybe in a pinch, for temporary.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

We are talking reducing washers here, I believe, not reducing bushings. $26 I believe you are getting robbed

 

[360Youth]

I have used reducing washers with romex connectors. There isn't much choice. Two NM cables in one connector and get a pair of 2" to 1/2" reducing washers.

That's my choice. The only had part I heave seen is getting from the 2" to small enough size for romex connector that fits. I haven't looked enough to remember how hard it was to find the 2"-1/2".

 

[kbsparky]

One problem with using reducing washers is installing them in a flush-mounted panel. You have to be able to access the enclosure from the outside, and this is not always possible.

Another issue is just finding them available on your work truck, or at the local supply house.

One more thing: Often times we encounter the 2" or 2-1/2" knockout removed, with no wires going thru. While a knockout filler plug might be one solution, the octogon cover plate without a knockout removed also works for this repair.

The cover plate/tek screws solution is much more economical, with a material cost of less than a dollar.

 

[stickboy1375]

Are we allowed to use multiple reducing washers? example: Need to get from 2" to 1/2" and all I have is 2" to 1 1/4 washers , and 1 1/4 to 1/2" washers...

 

[mdshunk]

Another issue is just finding them available on your work truck, or at the local supply house...

The cover plate/tek screws solution is much more economical, with a material cost of less than a dollar.

So, if the proper fitting is not quickly available or costs more than the budget permits, you're allowed to just cobble something together? :-?

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Are we allowed to use multiple reducing washers? example: Need to get from 2" to 1/2" and all I have is 2" to 1 1/4 washers , and 1 1/4 to 1/2" washers...

Sure but your locknot may nut work due to the thickness.

 

[360Youth]

Are we allowed to use multiple reducing washers? example: Need to get from 2" to 1/2" and all I have is 2" to 1 1/4 washers , and 1 1/4 to 1/2" washers...

That is what I was trying to get across as the difficult aspect. By the time you stack them on both sides of the hole, the connector threads are not long enough for the locknut. What you need is the 2"-1/2 or 3/4" mentioned earlier.

 

[tyha]

The octagon box with the ko's seems to be the ticket but dont you need threaded bolts as oppose to teks for grnd continuity

 

[360Youth]

Sure but your locknot may nut work due to the thickness.

There we go with responses popping up faster than one can type.:grin: Good advice, though. :wink:

 

[Dennis Alwon]

What you need is the 2"-1/2 or 3/4" mentioned earlier.

They are always in stock at my supplier--- I don't have a problem with that. In fact I buy the 2" to 1/2" because then I can knockout whatever size I need.

 

[360Youth]

The octagon box with the ko's seems to be the ticket but dont you need threaded bolts as oppose to teks for grnd continuity

I love these things. I couldn't tell you last time I used a terk.

http://tmt.stores.yahoo.net/gr6drbiset.html