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Pictures of my fire panel!

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This is my first fire panel I've ever done, its actually more like a subpanel... Its a Silent Knight 5895, the main panel is in another apartment building across the street, that one is a 5820.

The apartment building has a restraunt on the bottom floor. There is an elevator recall system so that was a very exciting learning experience.I roughed in the entire thing and trimmed it and programmed it! I never did fire until just recently, our company bid it and our fire guy quit. So here she is. My masterpiece, I dont see fire systems as something I would do for a career. But Im 21 and I think it will look good on my resume hehe. Shh dont tell my company!!!

kyleapril007.jpg
 

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
mdshunk said:
Is that MC cable entering through an NM connector in the upper right?


What size monitor do you have?
Resolustion (800x600?)?

I'm constintly amazed at what some of you guys can see in some of these posted pictures....makes me feel like I am looking at drawings on cave wall.
 

MichaelGP3

Senior Member
Location
San Francisco bay area
Occupation
Fire Alarm Technician
My 2 cents.....

My 2 cents.....

LawnGuyLandSparky said:
That wouldn't fly here, we can only enter a FACP through the bottom.

Just where is 'here'? A number of panels have labels/inkstamps that state "No Conduit Entry Here" on the bottom of the panel, since fittings & wire interfere with the batteries.

To the original poster: IMHO, it's a good idea to bring the AC power in to the panel using the nearest knockout to the AC input terminals. This minimizes stray induction, and makes separation between power limited and non-power limited wiring more easily accomplished.

What kind of wire is that (with the yellow jacket)?
 
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The leads from your power supply board are covering up your SLC expander board. This can be corrected by running the wires horizontally and using tiny zip-ties. Tidy wiring will make it easier in years ahead to add a second SLC expander or to replace/troubleshoot the first one.

Still, you did okay for a first try.
 

LawnGuyLandSparky

Senior Member
MichaelGP3 said:
Just where is 'here'? A number of panels have labels/inkstamps that state "No Conduit Entry Here" on the bottom of the panel, since fittings & wire interfere with the batteries.

To the original poster: IMHO, it's a good idea to bring the AC power in to the panel using the nearest knockout to the AC input terminals. This minimizes stray induction, and makes separation between power limited and non-power limited wiring more easily accomplished.

What kind of wire is that (with the yellow jacket)?

Here is NYC. Some enter the sides near the bottom, but the practice is risky. Anything on the sides above that battery or the top is NFG.
 

MichaelGP3

Senior Member
Location
San Francisco bay area
Occupation
Fire Alarm Technician
I'll assume a local NY (city or state) code requires this.....

I'll assume a local NY (city or state) code requires this.....

LawnGuyLandSparky said:
Here is NYC. Some enter the sides near the bottom, but the practice is risky. Anything on the sides above that battery or the top is NFG.

Have you ever had the reason for this installation standard explained? Just wondering...
 

LawnGuyLandSparky

Senior Member
MichaelGP3 said:
Have you ever had the reason for this installation standard explained? Just wondering...

Water infiltration. All backboards to be NYC approved as well, and that would mean no prefabricated KO's either.
 
Um yeah I need to put a couple fender washers on that 1/2" MC connector instead of using that 3/4" romex connector...

The yellow sleeves on the fire wire are 12/2 romex jackets. labeling each wire.

One of the journeyman I work with suggested I come through the upper right knockout instead of the upperleft so that there isnt "spring tension from the wire jetting straight into the terminals... Though now I think that was a dumb reason!

Next time Ill go through the nearest knockout, thanks for the advice.
 

jbroccoli

Member
Typically the manufacturer's installation guide details required (suggested) knockouts and wire routing locations to ensure separation of class 1 and class 2 wiring within a common enclosure. It makes sense to follow the manufacturers instructions whenever possible.
 
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