"polaris taps" versus split bolts

[g-and-h_electric]

Hey all, I need some input on this.

Just had an a/c disconnect which was feeding and EV charger burn up ( pictures on request). The wiring is #6 copper THHN in 3/4 EMT all the way to the panel with a 60 Amp breaker on it ( I personally installed this last spring). Anyway since it is a warranty call back, I am trying not to re-pull all the #6. I have a deep 11-B box which I can easily splice in. So I am looking for thoughts as to do we think a 2 port "polaris" is as good or better than a split bolt. For 2 connections I am not too worried about an extra 10 min to tape the split bolts, just dont need a repeat of something burning up.

The disconnect WILL be replaced with a "knife switch" style as I no longer trust the pullout style a/c disconnects.

Just looking for a few thoughts here. Again all conductors are #6 copper in EMT conduit.

Howard

 

[infinity]

I would not use a split bolt for anything other than grounding. A properly torqued Polaris style connector should never have an issue. Just make sure you don't skip the torque wrenching.

 

[retirede]

What was the make/model of the failed disconnect?

 

[LarryFine]

Can you pull any slack out from the panel? If you still need several inches more, you can probably pull out some wire and make the splices in the panel instead of at the disconnect end.

 

[Eddie702]

I am old school so I like split bolts never seen one fail. But I am sure Polaris is just as good.

 

[g-and-h_electric]

Can you pull any slack out from the panel? If you still need several inches more, you can probably pull out some wire and make the splices in the panel instead of at the disconnect end.

Larry:

Never though to see how much of a service loop I may have left in the panel. Worth a look , tho using a knife switch means heading to the top for the line side, but I will look tomorrow.

The disconnect that burned was an EATON brand, not the "usual" HVAC supply house junk that the hvac guys at the shop use.

The burn up does concern me on another front, a 5 ton resi condeser can be close to 45 Amps, and those run for many hours when it is hot in Chicago. I am hoping I dont start seeing problems there.

Will update tomorrow after I replace the disconnect.


Howard

 

[g-and-h_electric]

For those who asked, I am attaching a pdf from EATON with the specs of the disconnect that I had used.

 

[Birken Vogt]

I am old school so I like split bolts never seen one fail. But I am sure Polaris is just as good.

I have seen the odd Polaris burn down for no apparent reason. Split bolts hold but harder to install.

 

[ptonsparky]

Two clicks of the arthritic elbow is not proper torquing.

 

[curt swartz]

The burn up does concern me on another front, a 5 ton resi condeser can be close to 45 Amps, and those run for many hours when it is hot in Chicago. I am hoping I dont start seeing problems there.


Howard

A 5 ton condenser will never draw close to that. The MCA is usually 40 amps or less. My Bryant 5 ton condenser has an MCA of 37 amps. The maximum current I have ever measured is 18 amps.

 

[LarryFine]

Never though to see how much of a service loop I may have left in the panel.

Again, even if you need to add wire, it should be easier in the panel.

These are easy to install and tape, and are cheaper than Polaris.

. . . a 5 ton resi condeser can be close to 45 Amps . . .

At start-up, maybe, but definitely not continuously.

 

[solarken]

Larry:

Never though to see how much of a service loop I may have left in the panel. Worth a look , tho using a knife switch means heading to the top for the line side, but I will look tomorrow.

2023 NEC 625.43 requires a disconnect for EVSE if the unit is rated more than 60A or 150V to ground. Did you consider just eliminating the disconnect and wiring directly to the EVSE, if that helps? Also, would relocating the 60A breaker in the main panel provide more conductor length to avoid splicing?

 

[g-and-h_electric]

As far as where to make the splice, I came out of the basement to a 4 11/16 x2 1/8 deep box, nothing else in there, and it is right below the disconnect. Got the room to make a nice splice.... BTW, the wire is burned almost all the way to the connector in the existing disconnect, so I am going to need a bit of wire (not going to reuse burnt stuff, bad things will happen).

If the disconnect wasnt already there, I might consider it, but the customer is kind of a pain ( was when I did the charger, but money talks sometimes!

 

[electrofelon]

IMO a split bolt makes the absolute best most bullet proof connection of any mechanical connector. That said, I wouldn't hesitate to use almost any other connector either.

 

[letgomywago]

IMO a split bolt makes the absolute best most bullet proof connection of any mechanical connector. That said, I wouldn't hesitate to use almost any other connector either.

Brass Copper only yes but dual rated split bolts on copper I think aren't any better than any other listed splice since they have the metal piece between the 2 wires instead of wires smashed together. Still a good splice though.

 

[augie47]

agree with post #2

 

[infinity]

I've seen many split bolt connections fail. Problem is that you have no way of knowing if they're tight enough. I guess that you can use big wrench and a lump hammer to try and get it tight. At least with a Polaris you can torque it down to the manufacturer's specification which is part of the listing and has been tested.

 

[ptonsparky]

I bundled all the EGs into one split bolt with a #10 going to the neutral bar on the very first house I did. EG bars were not stocked by anyone in the area and not enough holes on the neutral bar. Worked fine, although I suspect it never saw a fault of any kind in 50 years.

 

[brycenesbitt]

For those who asked, I am attaching a pdf from EATON with the specs of the disconnect that I had used.

Could you post a copy of the burned picture also?

 

[kwired]

I bundled all the EGs into one split bolt with a #10 going to the neutral bar on the very first house I did. EG bars were not stocked by anyone in the area and not enough holes on the neutral bar. Worked fine, although I suspect it never saw a fault of any kind in 50 years.

Must been your work I encountered a few times when I seen that?

Though I think it was kind of a common practice back then, particularly with those 100 amp QO load centers that had the neutral bus on the top of everything but never enough terminals for a full panel - worse yet when several tandems were installed.