Pool light junction box

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MDS75

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I have a customer that put in his own inground pool the 120v light fixture wire is only 30',which is not going to be long enough to make it to the switch he wants it on. I am going to use junction box and my understanding is the j box has to be listed for pool use so I cant use a pvc carlon box or something like that. I have never had to use j box on pool lights the wire has always been long enough to make it to the transformer or switch. Just wanting to know why you can not use a pvc junction box.
 
You can use this
27a207a10f36aa5c4d2efbe9a9abae8d.jpg


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MDS75 said:
I have a customer that put in his own inground pool the 120v light fixture wire is only 30',which is not going to be long enough to make it to the switch he wants it on. I am going to use junction box and my understanding is the j box has to be listed for pool use so I cant use a pvc carlon box or something like that. I have never had to use j box on pool lights the wire has always been long enough to make it to the transformer or switch. Just wanting to know why you can not use a pvc junction box.
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I think the reason is because of the grounding terminals in the box. They make for a better termination then wirenuts. You also need a #8 bond wire from the pool light to the jb.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I think the reason is because of the grounding terminals in the box. They make for a better termination then wirenuts. You also need a #8 bond wire from the pool light to the jb.
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Also another requirement per NEC is that a pool junction box shall have grounding terminals in an amount equal to or greater than one more than the number of conduit entries.


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MDS75 said:
I have a customer that put in his own inground pool the 120v light fixture wire is only 30',which is not going to be long enough to make it to the switch he wants it on. I am going to use junction box and my understanding is the j box has to be listed for pool use so I cant use a pvc carlon box or something like that. I have never had to use j box on pool lights the wire has always been long enough to make it to the transformer or switch. Just wanting to know why you can not use a pvc junction box.
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MDS75 said:
I have never had to use j box on pool lights
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MDS75 said:
to make it to the transformer or switch.
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How did you splice the equipment ground at the switch location did you use a terminal that had positive pressure?

Did you use a wire nut?
 
MDS75 said:
I have a customer that put in his own inground pool the 120v light fixture wire is only 30',which is not going to be long enough to make it to the switch he wants it on. I am going to use junction box and my understanding is the j box has to be listed for pool use so I cant use a pvc carlon box or something like that. I have never had to use j box on pool lights the wire has always been long enough to make it to the transformer or switch. Just wanting to know why you can not use a pvc junction box.
Click to expand...

As has been noted already, fixtures are available with longer cords. However, your comment that you normally run the cord directly to the xformer or switch is an issue. While the code does not explicitly require a pool light junction box, as a practical matter it does as it is the only way to comply with 680.23(B)(2) and 680.24 for wet niche fixtures.
 
We use that Intermatic PJB exclusively. Intermatic also has a common mounting bracket for the 2 versions of this model. This allows for mounting on a surface such as a wall or 6x6 post, etc...
They also just came out with a model that has a built in 100w transformer. So no need for a separate transformer.

Like others responding on this post, it has a ground bar built in. It also has a bond lug.

The other feature this box has, as do other listed pool/spa boxes, it has a cord restraint which I'm pretty sure is a code requirement.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I think the reason is because of the grounding terminals in the box. They make for a better termination then wirenuts. You also need a #8 bond wire from the pool light to the jb.
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Aside from "that's what the Code says" I don't understand why the # 8 is required from the wet niche to the deck box when the circuit feeding it is run with # 12.
 
goldstar said:
Aside from "that's what the Code says" I don't understand why the # 8 is required from the wet niche to the deck box when the circuit feeding it is run with # 12.
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It all ties to the equipotential bonding at some point so that would be the only reason I know.
 
goldstar said:
Aside from "that's what the Code says" I don't understand why the # 8 is required from the wet niche to the deck box when the circuit feeding it is run with # 12.
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The insulated #8 bonding jumper only has to be installed if using nonmetallic conduit. It is to insure the housing/shell for the wet niche is bonded to the junction box grounding bar. Since the EGC for the light is contained in the cord there is no direct contact with the shell if/when the light is removed or should the light become loose and not make good contact. The only thing holding the light in the niche is a single screw. The #8 insures a constant bond whether the light is in the niche or not. Also the #8 requires a potting compound covering the attachment point to prevent damaging effects from the pool water.

Here is one I did a few years ago



 
Dennis Alwon said:
The question is why #8 and not #12
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Well my answer just sounded better!:D


I can only guess that since a metal conduit can be the bond, that if non-metallic is used, the #8 gives more area that would be close to the conduit surface area. At least larger than the #12. But thinking more about it, I don't think the cords for the lights have a #12. It's been a while so I'm not sure if it's 12 or 14.
 
Little Bill said:
Well my answer just sounded better!:D


I can only guess that since a metal conduit can be the bond, that if non-metallic is used, the #8 gives more area that would be close to the conduit surface area. At least larger than the #12. But thinking more about it, I don't think the cords for the lights have a #12. It's been a while so I'm not sure if it's 12 or 14.
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Light cords are #14. Nicheless 12VLED lights are also #14.
 
As a general rule I don't do swimming pool electrical work so that's why I asked about the # 8 solid in the wet niche. So, let me understand - the deck box includes a # 8 solid from the wet niche, a # 8 solid from the equi-potential bonding grid, a 14/2 S/O cord from the light fixture and # 12's from the breaker panel and/or switch. It all makes sense now.:blink:
 
goldstar said:
As a general rule I don't do swimming pool electrical work so that's why I asked about the # 8 solid in the wet niche. So, let me understand - the deck box includes a # 8 solid from the wet niche, a # 8 solid from the equi-potential bonding grid, a 14/2 S/O cord from the light fixture and # 12's from the breaker panel and/or switch. It all makes sense now.:blink:
Click to expand...


Yes and yes.

For wet niche's, #8 solid attaches to the inside as well as the backside of the niche. The backside connection connects to the rebar on a concrete pool and the steel wall on a vinyl pool kit. The inside connection requires a potting compound. The backside, I've been told by different inspectors, they want the potting compound. The niches I used were the PVC type.

Thing is, I have not installed a traditional wet niche light in over 10 years. We have been installing the nicheless 12V LED lights through an 1.5" conduit. There's no bonding or grounding with this light. We still however use the bond lug connection on the PJB deck box and the ground bar (#12 wire) from the transformer location.
 
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