Pool Light

Jimmy7

Senior Member
Location
Boston, MA
Occupation
Electrician
I’m not typically a pool guy, so is this okay. I used this pool light transformer provided by the homeowner. This is for one pool light that I believe is LED. The light has a cable attached that contains two yellow wires with no ground. The transformer states 3 amps max input, I put it on its own 15 amp Eaton BR afci/gfci breaker (Pool panel states BR Cutler Hammer) I did everything with #12. I ran from the breaker to the switch then to the transformer to the pool light junction box. I terminated the grounding conductor at all of those points. At the transformer I tapped off the 14 volts with two #12. ( I believe there was a note for Hayward lights to use the 14 volt tap). I attached both of the #12 to the yellow wires coming from the pool light cable in the pool light junction box. I then terminated the only ground there was (From the transformer, not the light) to the ground bar in the pool light junction box. What do you think?
 

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retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
It sounds like you used the same junction box for both the 120V primary and low voltage light connections. I’m not sure if that’s permissible or not, but I wouldn’t do it that way. Keep the low voltage wiring separated from 120V.
 

Jimmy7

Senior Member
Location
Boston, MA
Occupation
Electrician
It sounds like you used the same junction box for both the 120V primary and low voltage light connections. I’m not sure if that’s permissible or not, but I wouldn’t do it that way. Keep the low voltage wiring separated from 120V.
Sorry for the confusion, let me clarify. I ran #12 from the breaker to the switch and then to the transformer (120volts stops at the splice on the primary side of the transformer). On the secondary side compartment of the transformer I tapped the 14 volt conductors and ran three #12 to the pool light junction box which included a ground. It’s at the pool light junction box where I spliced two #12 to the two yellow conductors from the light. The ground from the pool transformer terminated on the ground bar at the pool light junction box.
 

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
It sounds like you used the same junction box for both the 120V primary and low voltage light connections. I’m not sure if that’s permissible or not, but I wouldn’t do it that way. Keep the low voltage wiring separated from 120V.
Those transformers separate the primary from the secondary (high voltage, low voltage). That's how they are listed for pool lights.
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
Those transformers separate the primary from the secondary (high voltage, low voltage). That's how they are listed for pool lights.

I know…but it sounded to me like 120V and low voltage were going to the same external junction box. He clarified in post 3 that that’s not the case.
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
Sorry for the confusion, let me clarify. I ran #12 from the breaker to the switch and then to the transformer (120volts stops at the splice on the primary side of the transformer). On the secondary side compartment of the transformer I tapped the 14 volt conductors and ran three #12 to the pool light junction box which included a ground. It’s at the pool light junction box where I spliced two #12 to the two yellow conductors from the light. The ground from the pool transformer terminated on the ground bar at the pool light junction box.

I think you’re fine, but it wasn’t necessary to run an EGC with the low voltage conductors.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
I’m not typically a pool guy, so is this okay. I used this pool light transformer provided by the homeowner. This is for one pool light that I believe is LED. The light has a cable attached that contains two yellow wires with no ground. The transformer states 3 amps max input, I put it on its own 15 amp Eaton BR afci/gfci breaker (Pool panel states BR Cutler Hammer) I did everything with #12. I ran from the breaker to the switch then to the transformer to the pool light junction box. I terminated the grounding conductor at all of those points. At the transformer I tapped off the 14 volts with two #12. ( I believe there was a note for Hayward lights to use the 14 volt tap). I attached both of the #12 to the yellow wires coming from the pool light cable in the pool light junction box. I then terminated the only ground there was (From the transformer, not the light) to the ground bar in the pool light junction box. What do you think?


Generally speaking there is no need for an equipment grounding conductor in low voltage lighting.

Edit-- I see it was answered above just before I posted.
 
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