Pool Pump

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Jimmy7

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Location
Boston, MA
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Electrician
I have a customer who has asked me to wire his replacement pool pump. The pool pump is 115 volt, 15 Amp, 1 HP. I was going to feed the pump with a 20 Amp single pole gfci breaker. There is currently a 1/2" pvc conduit from the electrical panel to where the original pump was located. This conduit contains the feed for the pool light as well. The distance from the electrical panel to the pump location is approximately 60'. As a result, I was going to use #10 for the pump due to voltage drop. Is this correct? I was then thinking I would have to increase the size of the grounding conductor as well.

Does the ground wire need to be #8?
#10 (10380) / #12 (6530) = 1.59
250.122 - 20A = #12 #12 6530 Circ Mils 6530 x 1.59 = 10382
Can I use a #10 that is 10380 Circ Mils, or do I have to go up to #8 16510 Circ Mils?

If I go to a #8 will it fit in the with the existing conductors in the 1/2" conduit?
 
The equipment grounding conductor does not need to be larger than the phase conductor (250.122(A).
(You might note the equipment grounding conductor for the pool light can not be shared with the pump)(680.23(F)
 
20amp breaker EGC is always the same size as circuit conductors. No math needed.

Sorry Augie for the repeat. You beat me to it while typing.
 
Jimmy7 said:
Volts 115/230 Amps 15.0/7.5 HP 1

There currently isn't any free spots in the panel which is a complete mess, so that is why I was going to keep it at 120V.
Click to expand...
I was going to say if it was dual voltage, you could use the current #14 as it would only draw 7A @240V.
I wouldn't worry about just 60', if you decide to change the wire, #12 would be all you need. But you could leave the wire as is, it will be fine.
 
Little Bill said:
I was going to say if it was dual voltage, you could use the current #14 as it would only draw 7A @240V.
I wouldn't worry about just 60', if you decide to change the wire, #12 would be all you need. But you could leave the wire as is, it will be fine.
Click to expand...
I might take another look and see if there is something I could do in the panel to create some room for a 240V breaker, plus I could see if they would like me to cleanup their mess of a panel.
 
I went back to this job yesterday and opened everything up. It appears that my helper gave me some wrong information. In any case, this is what I found. The pool pump circuit is fed from a 20 amp single pole Square D QO breaker. The conductors for the pump are #12 stranded (I'm okay there), the pool light and receptacle (Per 680.22) are on the same circuit and are fed with #14 Stranded. Both the pool pump circuit and pool light / receptacle circuit are routed through a time clock (Pump is the only item wired to the time clock) which is nippled to the panel. The circuits then run from the back of the timeclock to a 1/2" PVC LB immediately outside which has pulled away from the conduit as it enters the house (There is no expansion fittings). From the LB, both circuits hit the receptacle which is stubbed out of the ground near the pool, and then they run to a two gang bell box near the pump where there was a 120V twist lock to the pump and a switch for the pump light. The homeowner wants to keep the pump cord and plug connected so they can store the pump for the winter, and they want to add a switch so they can shut it off instead of unplugging it under load. As a result, I'm going to replace the rotted two gang bell box (Bottom screw holes are rotted) and add a single gang bell box for the pool light.

I have a couple hurdles that I would like your advice on.
1. There was no #12 ground wire run with the pump motor, there was a #14 stranded that was run with the light/receptacle circuit that was shared. This grounding conductor is a #14 Red taped green in each box and panel. This #14 red is currently spliced at the two gang bell box with the #8 solid (Equipotential Bond) and then pigtails to the pool light switch and pump receptacle.

I believe in a prior response it was stated that the pool light and pump need to a separate ground. Should I rip out that #14 red ground and install #14 green ground for the pool light, and a #12 ground for the Pool pump? What about the receptacle, can that share the #14 Ground?

2. I know the equipotential ground just needs to bond all the pool equipment. Should I not install the #8 solid in the new 2-gang Bell box for the pump like it was?

3. Since I have to reconnect the LB and possibly install a couple new ground wires. Would you add expansion joints, or just glue it as is?

I really appreciate this forum.. I'm always learning!

Pool Pump.jpgPool Pump 2.jpg
 
There are so many problems associated with that it would be difficult to list.
You need to review 680.23(F) and 680.24.
 
I'll name one, you don't connect the #8 to the box, it should go direct to the lug on the pump.
I'll just note that I didn't hear about, or see, a GFCI.
 
I have been reviewing 680.23(F) and 680.24, and I have a question. I talked to the homeowner regarding the pool I mentioned yesterday and we decided to rip out the existing wiring. With that being said, I have a question in regards to 680.23(F)(2). I'm planning on having the one wet niche pool light fed from its own 15 amp single pole gfci breaker. From the breaker I will go to the switch, and then to the transformer, and then to the new pool rated junction box (#8 insulated copper to the forming shell), and then to the pool light. My question is with the #12 grounding conductor. If I put the circuit on a 15 amp breaker, I believe I can run #14 for the hot and neutral, and #12 for the grounding conductor, correct?

What about on the secondary side of the pool light transformer to the pool light junction box? Does that need an equipment grounding conductor? The pool light will only be 12 volts.
 
Jimmy7 said:
I have been reviewing 680.23(F) and 680.24, and I have a question. I talked to the homeowner regarding the pool I mentioned yesterday and we decided to rip out the existing wiring. With that being said, I have a question in regards to 680.23(F)(2). I'm planning on having the one wet niche pool light fed from its own 15 amp single pole gfci breaker. From the breaker I will go to the switch, and then to the transformer, and then to the new pool rated junction box (#8 insulated copper to the forming shell), and then to the pool light. My question is with the #12 grounding conductor. If I put the circuit on a 15 amp breaker, I believe I can run #14 for the hot and neutral, and #12 for the grounding conductor, correct?

What about on the secondary side of the pool light transformer to the pool light junction box? Does that need an equipment grounding conductor? The pool light will only be 12 volts.
Click to expand...
Does the light have a EGC?

Read the exception to (F)(2)
 
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