stjohnbarleycorn said:
you have an above ground pool, outside, permanent install, and the pump comes with a cord and plug that is 14 gauge copper. ..... I see the code requires 12 gauge minimum, but is that only for field wiring, or does it apply to ul listed pool pumps?
Are you sure that the
equipment grounding conductor is #14 ? . NEC requires it to be #12 in the cord [680.7(B)] and #12 in the branch circuit [680.21(A)(1)]. . Could it be that the hot and neutral are #14 and equip ground is #12 ?
stjohnbarleycorn said:
Do you have to replace the whole cord with 12 gauge along with the twist lock, or can you just put on the twist lock.
If you field install a twist lock on the existing cord it will continuously trip the GFCI because the cord cap isn't sealed to moisture.
Also the UL listing is a factor. . They don't make seperate pump motors for twistlock and non-twistlock, but the pump has minimum requirements for the cord. . The manufacturer might require you replace the cord with
their cord. . Many people think it is a UL violation to remove the cord from certain equipment. . If that was true, what do you do with a pool pump that has a cord that was hit by the lawnmower, throw the motor out ?
The point is that there are manufacturers requirements for replacing a cord. . You have to follow their requirements are choose a different brand of motor. . If you're at least 10' from the pool edge, twistlock isn't required [680.22(A)(1)(2)] but is optional. . Inside of 10', follow the manufacturers direction for your choice of cord and installation technique. . Don't forget to install the seal at the cord base at the motor just as the manufacturer directs. . Inside of 6', your only option is hardwired.
stjohnbarleycorn said:
If you are going to replace the whole plug, would you just hard wire it with carflex and eliminate the expensive twist lock?
That all depends on how far away you are from the pool. . If you're inside of 10' you can either hardwire or go twistlock. . If you're at least 10', you could go with any option including changing nothing and keep it on the straight blade and a standard blade GFCI [or GFCI breaker].
stjohnbarleycorn said:
For bonding do you generally bring one #8 solid to the pump from the above ground pool. or do you generally try to make more than one bond to them. They are mostly sheet metal and not much to attach too, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for a better bonding job on these pools. They have a sheet metal circle with some reinforcing struts but all free standing, nothing connected to the earth no concrete. thanks for any suggestions on this.
There's a whole list of stuff that has to be bonded and a whole list of bonding requirements. . Maybe you should sit down before you read this because it?s going to take awhile.
680.26(B)(1) Shell gets bonded
680.26(B)(2) Perimeter gets bonded
680.26(B)(3) Pool structure [other than shell] gets bonded
680.26(B)(4) Lighting gets bonded
680.26(B)(5) Fittings get bonded
680.26(B)(6) Electrical Equipment + Motors get bonded
680.26(B)(7) Electrical Equipment + Raceways get bonded
Finally 680.26(B) The main paragraph says you interconnect (1) thru (7)
??..one #8 solid to the pump from the above ground pool. or do you generally try to make more than one bond to them. They are mostly sheet metal and not much to attach too?
680.26(B)(6) Electrical Equipment + Motors get bonded. . You are only required to bring one tail to the motor.
680.26(B)(3) Pool structure [other than shell] gets bonded.
680.26(B)(5) Fittings get bonded . All isolated metal parts of the pool need to be bonded together. . Make sure all of the pool structural metal stuff is bonded together.
?They have a sheet metal circle with some reinforcing struts but all free standing, nothing connected to the earth no concrete.?
680.26(B)(2) Perimeter gets bonded. . If the pool shell is metal, you are required to bond the perimeter to the shell at
4 points
uniformly spaced around the perimeter [This was not a requirement in ?05]. . But you still only have one required tail to the motor.
When you?re required to bond the
shell and
perimeter depends on which version of the NEC applies in your state/area. . There's actually 3 possible codes, choose the one that applies in your area
'05
'05 with the TIA
'08
For the 3'
paved perimeter it makes no difference which of the 3 your state is on.
The '05 has bonding requirements for basically
everything.
The '05 with TIA exempted adding a bonding grid underneath a
nonconductive pool shell contour if there wasn't already metal under/in the pool shell. . There was
no exemption for the paved perimeter under any version of the NEC.
The '08 is a complete rewrite but basically it takes the '05 with TIA and expands perimeter bonding to
unpaved surfaces within 3' of the pool [680.26(B)(2)] and water bonding [680.26(C)].
But there's no difference between the 3 possible codes for
paved perimeter bonding. . If there's metal within 3' of the pool, you are required to bond it. . If there's
no metal within 3' of the pool, you are required to
add metal and then bond it. . 680.26(B)(2)(a) says the equipotential bonding is to reinforcing steel [if no reinforcing steel then the alternate means].
680 doesn't define a structural equipotential grid or define reinforcing. . It only defines the alternate *** if there is no metal structural grid/reinforcing [680.26(B)(2)(b)]. . 547.2 + 682.2 both say a structural equipotential grid can consist of "wire mesh".
You're required to bond the rebar [or wire mesh] if it's within 3' of the pool. . If there's no metal in the paved perimeter within 3' of the pool then you have to add rebar [or wire mesh] or an alternate ***.
alternate *** for '05 is a copper grid pattern with max 16" squares
alternate *** for '05 with the TIA is also the copper grid pattern with max 16" squares
alternate *** for '08 is a
wire loop in a specified location, the
grid pattern is still applicable for under the pool contour shell [680.26(B)(1)(b)].
