pool stuff 1st time

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Ponchik

Ponchik

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Location
CA
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Electronologist
For the first time I am doing a pool wiring.

So, my understanding is:


  1. based on 680.25(A)(1) I must use the wiring method that is mentioned in the article for the supply side feeder and I can not use NM cable to supply the panel of the pool equipment. And it must have a insulated EGC from the pool panel straight to the service panel.
  2. It seems like SCH80 PVC will do just fine for the branch circuits that are for the pumps and the pool lighting.
  3. Pool lights, receptacles, pool pumps all to be GFCI protected.
  4. The bonding grid conductor minimum #8 solid copper will bond the rebar, lighting shell, motor frames, he ladder, the diving board, the 36" perimeter walkway rebar....

I could not figure out if the pool panel (when sized properly) can supply A/C circuit that is next to the pool equipment?

Thank you.
 
Although there are panels that are marketed as "pool panels" there is nothing special about them other than maybe a timer or some type of control.

There would be nothing wrong or prohibitive about feeding other loads from a panel for pool equipment. If, as you said, it was of the proper size to handle the loads.

Oh, and if you have any input I would suggest LED lighting. It's safer and most housings don't require bonding since they are non-metallic.
 
The only thing I might add is to pay careful attention to 680.24. Depending on the type lighting used, things like 'potting compound' and 'pool junction boxes (as opposed to a standard j box) can bite you in the butt.
 
Little Bill said:
Oh, and if you have any input I would suggest LED lighting. It's safer and most housings don't require bonding since they are non-metallic.
Click to expand...

several +1's on that. i won't even install a line voltage light in a pool any more.
sorry. get someone else to do it.

cpinetree said:
Look at the Savi LED lights: http://savilights.com/

They slide into 1 1/2" pvc pipe.

I'm sure other manufactures have similar products.
Click to expand...

those look freaking awesome... have you used them yourself?
i've got a pool in disrepair in my backyard that is going to be
put back together this spring... and i need lighting......
damn. this solves almost every issue.....



  • SAVI UNDERWATER LIGHT FEATURES
  • 4" Minimum Water Depth
  • Fits Standard 1-1/2" Wall Fittings
  • No Niche. No Grounding. No Bonding.
  • 180° Beam for Complete Coverage
  • No Removal During Liner Changes
  • Flush Mounts / Can Run Dry
  • No Water Required for Cooling
  • Accepts Designer Series Lenses
  • Field Interchangeable, Upgradeable, & Replaceable Cartridges
 
Last edited:
Fulthrotl said:
several +1's on that. i won't even install a line voltage light in a pool any more.
sorry. get someone else to do it.



those look freaking awesome... have you used them yourself?
i've got a pool in disrepair in my backyard that is going to be
put back together this spring... and i need lighting......
damn. this solves almost every issue.....


[/LIST]
Click to expand...

We have done a lot of them.

Just recently did a fiber optic to LED change out using the Savi Buddy light.
The Buddy lights are much larger than they appear in the picture (maybe 5" diameter), but it went very smoothly.

Savi Buddy light link: http://savilights.com/product-buddy-light.html
 
david said:
are you saying that the nitch for LED lighting is not required to be bonded. I went online and most of the ones I seen have a metal lens ring for the LED lighting
Click to expand...

Well I said MOST housings are nonmetallic. The only ones that I have had any dealings with that were metal were retro fit LED.
The non-metallic ones I have been installing are made by Pal Treo. They are low voltage, plastic housings, remote controlled, etc. They fit in a 1-1/2" wall fitting, they are threaded and just thread into the wall fitting.
You attach 1-1/2" PVC on the outside just long enough to clear the walls then you can reduce it down to 1" or 3/4".
 
Little Bill said:
Well I said MOST housings are nonmetallic. The only ones that I have had any dealings with that were metal were retro fit LED.
The non-metallic ones I have been installing are made by Pal Treo. They are low voltage, plastic housings, remote controlled, etc. They fit in a 1-1/2" wall fitting, they are threaded and just thread into the wall fitting.
You attach 1-1/2" PVC on the outside just long enough to clear the walls then you can reduce it down to 1" or 3/4".
Click to expand...

ok, no nitch fixtures just are not common here yet. i'm guessing it won't be long until the become common
 
cpinetree said:
We have done a lot of them.
/QUOTE]

looked at where you are. florida. duh. :dunce:

my pool is currently dry, awaiting refurbishing.
long, sad story... in any event, the deck was
removed as well, and i can core and put these
wherever i want them... i'm thinking two on
the house side of the pool, shining away from
the house, and one in the spa, similarly placed.

thanks again for the link.
Click to expand...
 
augie47 said:
The only thing I might add is to pay careful attention to 680.24. Depending on the type lighting used, things like 'potting compound' and 'pool junction boxes (as opposed to a standard j box) can bite you in the butt.
Click to expand...

Augie are you saying a normal outdoor junction box would not float if I run my conduit from the low voltage LED's? Just curious. I just posted this question in a new topic.
 
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