Pool Bonding
Pool Bonding
Pool bonding is something I have specialized in for years. First because it's not incredibly complicated once you understand what the aim of the code is and second, many guys don't understand it and are happy to pass the work along. Swimming pools can be somewhat of a niche market.
Bonding a fiberglass pool would require some form of water bonding device like the previous link led you to or a similar type of skimmer bucket plate. There are metallic conduit nipples in the water plumbing system that can be used, solid plates that can be afixed to the pool wall, and a bunch of other products that come and go. The ladder, slide, railing and diving board cups or chassis all need to be effectively grounded as well as all permanently installed metal objects within 5' of the maximum water level of the pool. So measure from the top inside edge of the coping out 5' and if it's metal, bond it. Lights get bonded both at the light niche and in the niche box. For gunnite, you need to clamp to the rebar in at least 2 places prior to the gunnite being shot on. We run the bond loop aroud the pool, hit all the metal that is installed, leave loops where the rest will be, and call for a bonding inspection. I don't use split bolts to extend the bond wire, I use barrel crimps because I've always been taught that modifications and extensions to the bonding system need to be done in a permanent irriversable fashion.
The main thing to understand is you are trying to make all the metal parts have the same ability to conduct. Once everything is on the same plane, no current flow. Read 680 until you really get it or look for someone in your area who really understands it. Because little kids are generally better hydrated and we tend to pay more attention to what they eat, they in turn are better conductors. And there is no single worse thing I can think of is an installation causing an injury to a little kid. Don't wing it with this because you have a real potential for disaster.
