sparkync
Senior Member
- Location
- North Carolina
I am changing the electrical service on a customer's house, and she has a "Genrac" Power Tranfer switch that came with the generator she bought.
I had to replace her outside panel with a 200 amp. weather proof panel.
The transfer switch is only for indoor use. The flex out of one side of the switch, has the line and load wires coming out of it, and one #10 neutral, and one #10 equipment ground. #1 question: If I mount this transfer switch indoors, can I just run the hot conductors ( line and load ) from the outside panel to a junction box appropriately sized, inside through appropriate size conduit, and tie onto the conductors from the transfer switch? The #10 neutral must be for the watt meters that on front of the transfer switch. I don't see anything wrong with this according to code, but just checking. I might question the space for splicing in the panel, but there will only be 6 splices maximum in a 30/42 circuit panel, so I don't think that will be a problem.
#2 Question: Out of the other side of the tranfer switch, is the flex that is to go to the generator "connection box" outside. I will set a junction box on this flex, and run the appropriate wire size to the "connection box" outside.
In this "set up", if it is required to switch the neutral when the generator neutral is bonded to the frame, where would I switch it? If these transfer switches are not code compliant, why do they let them manufacture them?
I emailed a letter to the Generac web site a while back, and they told me their interpretation of Art. 250.20 (D) FPN #1 was that if an alternate AC power source such as a generator is Not a separately derived system if the neutral is solidly interconnected to a service supplied system neutral. They say that there is no mention of whether the neutral on the generator is floating or bonded, and that it is not necessary on residential applications.
This keeps me sort of confused when trying to explain to the customer that the system that she bought is not right according to code, when the manufacture says it is. Please help. Thanks
I had to replace her outside panel with a 200 amp. weather proof panel.
The transfer switch is only for indoor use. The flex out of one side of the switch, has the line and load wires coming out of it, and one #10 neutral, and one #10 equipment ground. #1 question: If I mount this transfer switch indoors, can I just run the hot conductors ( line and load ) from the outside panel to a junction box appropriately sized, inside through appropriate size conduit, and tie onto the conductors from the transfer switch? The #10 neutral must be for the watt meters that on front of the transfer switch. I don't see anything wrong with this according to code, but just checking. I might question the space for splicing in the panel, but there will only be 6 splices maximum in a 30/42 circuit panel, so I don't think that will be a problem.
#2 Question: Out of the other side of the tranfer switch, is the flex that is to go to the generator "connection box" outside. I will set a junction box on this flex, and run the appropriate wire size to the "connection box" outside.
In this "set up", if it is required to switch the neutral when the generator neutral is bonded to the frame, where would I switch it? If these transfer switches are not code compliant, why do they let them manufacture them?
I emailed a letter to the Generac web site a while back, and they told me their interpretation of Art. 250.20 (D) FPN #1 was that if an alternate AC power source such as a generator is Not a separately derived system if the neutral is solidly interconnected to a service supplied system neutral. They say that there is no mention of whether the neutral on the generator is floating or bonded, and that it is not necessary on residential applications.
This keeps me sort of confused when trying to explain to the customer that the system that she bought is not right according to code, when the manufacture says it is. Please help. Thanks
