Potlights with attic space

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Tclupp

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Not a resi guy here so looking for the best way to install potlights in a living room with an attic space. I do not want to make too many trips to the attic and back since I will be doing it myself.

I can obviously located the joists with a stud finder and get an idea of where I will be installing the lights. I will probably then drill a pilot hole and stick a long piece of wire through the ceiling to help find the location in the attic. I can then verify the locations work and go back down and cut each hole. I will try not to cut the vapour barrier so I don't get a pile of insulation to fall down.

Then I can take the potlights up, install each one. I will need to put a vapor barrier over top, I guess just run the wire through it, wire the light then seal the barrier all around with tuck tape?

Is there easier or quicker ways? What would you charge someone per potlight to install?

Thank you
 
What many call "Lotus" lights

Lithonia has wafer-thin LED's, looks like pot lite but thin enough to fit under joist

So we stopped doing all that crawling and locating and just drill 6" hole where ever we want a light
 
What many call "Lotus" lights

Lithonia has wafer-thin LED's, looks like pot lite but thin enough to fit under joist

So we stopped doing all that crawling and locating and just drill 6" hole where ever we want a light

And how do you seal the wiring above? That box will be above the vapor barrier. I could quickly install retro lights without sealing them but that would not be the proper install
 
I'd install old-work cans instead of crawling around the attic with new-construction cans. You can fish wires from hole to hole a lot faster than running up to the attic and back all day long.
 
I'd install old-work cans instead of crawling around the attic with new-construction cans. You can fish wires from hole to hole a lot faster than running up to the attic and back all day long.

Exactly. The old-work cans are available with an IC and an AT rating, that is, rated for direct contact with thermal insulation and air tight. Carefully cut the hole and use the supplied gaskets and you will maintain a suitable vapor barrier.
 
I never would have thought not taping the vapor barrier from above would still be a good seal.

However if that is the case I would only need to get up to fish from the switch and the rest I can do from below essentially..

Just want to make sure I understand it correct using those smaller lights to maintain its at rating is as long as the vapor barrier is cut no bigger than the light it will be okay? Still seems odd to me since nothing is holding the vapor barrier down to the drywall allowing air to get between the drywall and vapor barrier.
 
Still seems odd to me since nothing is holding the vapor barrier down to the drywall allowing air to get between the drywall and vapor barrier.
From below, use a vapor barrier caulk between the existing barrier and the top of the drywall.
 
From below, use a vapor barrier caulk between the existing barrier and the top of the drywall.

Ya that's true. Or since I've gotta go up to fish the switch I'll probably just tape it all down while I'm there. Still much easier than hauling bunch of pots up and wiring them up

Thanks for the advice
 
Interesting. Down here in the states the vapor barrier can be the painted sheetrock! Very few installations have had plastic sheeting. Usually just those trying to blow in insulation before the drywall is installed.
Almost never see any vapor barrier on ceilings here either, other then the paint on the drywall. They put plastic on exterior walls, until more recently when they started flash foaming the exterior walls which acts as a vapor barrier. Ceiling they usually want to breathe and let moisture escape through the attic/crawlspace.
 
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