Yes on H-23 from the Electrical Railroad Improvement COmpany. Also bracket boxes will work.
Don't forget to use grommets in the stud holes if you are using Romex.
The stud punch only works on the thinner steel studs.
I have nno idea what they were thinking when they sheetrocked the ceiling before adding the walls. Maybe inexperience.
As for the wood blocking -- this may be for mounting cabinets. But for electrical boxes, use steel channel. Invest in a pair of green and red off-set snips. Take a scrap of 18" track [channel], about 2" in snip the flanges, then 14 1/2" further on, snip again. Bend the ends 90? and slip in the stud bay. Use some Tek screws and viola!:a shelf to mount your boxes on.
[Further note on the wood blocking: Notching the steel studs won't work because there would be no steel surface to attach to. The practice seems to be to cut 15 7/8" pieces of 2 X 8 and then dado a 1/4" groove about 1 1/2" in to clear the lip on the open ended stud and screw it into position.]
You would probably want to be using metal boxes. Also plan on small one-hole straps [some are flattened for Romex] to secure the cable.
Make sure the studders keep all the holes in the studs lined up. [This is more imortant for conduit work.]
Hole cutters from Hougen work good.
maybe i should recalculate?
