Well guys usually do them here, but they are a no brainer. Don't just change it and walk away though. Watch it cycle a few times to be sure there are not other problems. "ON" time should be at least a minute. Rapid cycling indicates not enough air in the tank or a leaking check valve. Pressure switches do have a hp rating so one size does not fit all.
Rapid cycling indicates too much air pressure in the tank, or a flooded tank due to a ruptured diaphram in the tank.....I guess this could mean "not enough air".:smile:
A leaking check valve will cause more frequent cycling, with the frequency depending on the serverity of the leak.
The air pressure in the tank should be checked with the pump not running, and zero water pressure in the system....faucet open, drain the water pressure down completely.
Set the air pressure to 2 lbs below pump cut-in pressure...ie....if you set the switch to cut the pump on when the gage drops to 20 psi, the air tank should have 18 lbs air pressure when the water is at zero pressure.
This allows the air resevoir inside the tank to always remain slightly compressed, and prevents the air bag (or diaphram) from hitting the bottom of the tank and being damaged when the water pressure falls to 20 psi (cut in).
The differential pressure (switch cut in-cut out) should be set as high as possible, with the high side dictated by customer preference, pump capacity, and the ability of the plumbing system to handle the high pressure.
This results in fewer pump cycles for a given output of water.
Fewer cycles = Longer pump life and lower power consumption.:smile:
Most residential systems that I see have a cut in of about 20 lbs. and a cut out pressure of around 50 lbs.
On the pressure switches that have a "zero pressure' safety cut out, the switch will require manual reset if the water pressure ever drops below the (preset) switch cut-in pressure.
This is to prevent the pump from running if the well is dry, or if there is a leak in the down pipe into the well, either of which can cause the pump to run continuously (or dry) and be damaged.
To reset the switch, you must gradually move the reset lever until the pump starts to run, and hold it in that position until the pump achieves cut in pressure on the switch. At that point, the switch will latch, and you can then turn the lever to the full on position.
You can't simply reset the lever because without pressure on the system, the switch won't latch.
I didn't mean for this post to be so long, but some of the info may be helpful if you work on well pump systems.
steve