Price for adding receptacles in plaster

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

sfav8r

Senior Member
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I am attempting to minimize the amount of time remodel estimates take. One task we do a lot is add receptacles to existing rooms, mostly with lathe and plaster. I am considering trying to minimize the estimating time on these jobs by having an average cost per receptacle/switch plus a cost to bring a circuit to the room as a separate item if needed. Have any of you come up with a better, easier, or more accurate way? I am also curious what you feel is a good average time per outlet. I am considering two models. One model would be for jobs where the basement is accessible and we can open the wall where the outlet goes and drill down to pull wire. The other is where there is access through the ceiling and we have to open up for fire blocks. I was originally thinking about 1 hour per outlet to cut the hole, open for the fire block and, drill through the top plate and pull the wire up. Then I would add a charge for a j-box in the attic and running power to it. I think the circuit charge will be impossible to place a "standard" time on because you never know where the panel wiil. be.

Any input or thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks
 
I price these with more of a visceral method rather than any sort of set price. Plaster varies in thickness, density, and age. These three factors greatly effect the price per hole. Very seldom do I find cross blocking in structures that feature plaster. When I do, it's normally within 4 or 5 feet of a corner, where a "wind brace" was diagonally let in to the framing. I like to put my eyeballs on the job before I price things out like you're attempting. The price could vary from 100 dollars per hole to more than 3 times that. Just today, I had to put just one three-way switch on a wall in the hallway of a bank, and it took 11 hours to do so without damaging the building's finish. If I'd have done that on a 'per hole' basis, I'd have lost my back side.
 
Fire Alarm said:
I charge $195 to cut in receptacles and switches. This is consistent with what others charge in my area.
Click to expand...
Good, I should have hired you for my fiasco today, and stayed at home and watched TV.
 
The idea is not to bid site-unseen. My goal is to try and give a REASONABLE estimate to the client. For example, we are bidding a job that will involve 14 new outlets. We want to provide an estimated cost, then the actual job is done either on T&M, or if required, we provide a firm number (padded) and then have provisions in the contract for weird things that could happen (like the job that had sheetrock over plaster over 3/4 redwood! That was just swell)

Generally what I do (it sounds like what you do Marc) is wander around and get a gut feeling. I'm just looking for something a little less subjective to my mood and also a way that more easily allows for field adjustments to the scope (Ie: add or subtract an outlet).
 
Last edited:
Fire Alarm said:
I charge $195 to cut in receptacles and switches. This is consistent with what others charge in my area.
Click to expand...

And what if the others in your area have been loosing money ?
 
sfav8r said:
The idea is not to bid site-unseen. My goal is to try and give a REASONABLE estimate to the client.... We want to provide an estimated cost, then the actual job is done either on T&M, or if required, we provide a firm number (padded)...
Click to expand...
I get you now.

In that case, my number would be about 175 per hole. Your mileage will vary.
 
satcom said:
And what if the others in your area have been loosing money ?
Click to expand...

I can only run my business. I make money at these prices. And I do add for "degree of difficulty" if warranted. I know this idea runs contrary to the group-think on this forum, but it is useful to know what your competition is charging. Your rates should be based on your own break even and profit calculations but you should know what is going on in your local industry.
 
Fire Alarm said:
I know this idea runs contrary to the group-think on this forum, but it is useful to know what your competition is charging.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the idea that it's not useful to know what the competition is charging on this forum? :confused: We've had many discussion about that very issue, and the concensus is that your competition probably isn't charging enough.
 
I think the red flag goes up every time "going rate" is mentioned is because many guys base their price on the "going rate" alone, and don't do their own math. They can be unwittingly marching off the cliff along with the rest of the Lemmings.
 
sfav8r said:
The idea is not to bid site-unseen. My goal is to try and give a REASONABLE estimate to the client. For example, we are bidding a job that will involve 14 new outlets. We want to provide an estimated cost, then the actual job is done either on T&M, or if required, we provide a firm number (padded) and then have provisions in the contract for weird things that could happen (like the job that had sheetrock over plaster over 3/4 redwood! That was just swell)

Generally what I do (it sounds like what you do Marc) is wander around and get a gut feeling. I'm just looking for something a little less subjective to my mood and also a way that more easily allows for field adjustments to the scope (Ie: add or subtract an outlet).
Click to expand...

You are going to have to look at a job like this as: Will it take one day or two days? Will it take one and a half days? Can I make a half day up somewhere?

Big box has a plastic box that can be installed in a round hole that can be cut with a hole saw, buy one of those $30 6' drill bits and have fun.
 
jrannis said:
Big box has a plastic box that can be installed in a round hole that can be cut with a hole saw,...
Click to expand...
Which would also require a Remgrit hole saw, since a reglar hole saw will get the teeth cleaned off flat PDQ in plaster.

I've seen those "round hole" boxes, but havn't used one yet. I might one day, as an experiment. I have a general dislike for old work boxes that are only supported by wings. I have been spoiled by the sturdy install of the Smart Box and the One Box.

The manufacturer says that these "hole saw boxes" require a maxi plate. That's enough for me to not like them.

FSC3227R-HAND.jpg
 
If you run the hole saw backwards it lasts a bit longer. Doesn't snag and take out half the ceiling of plaster either (usually). I see a lot of guys run the rotozip for plaster. I take my flat head screw driver and knock out an outline of the box first and then saw the lathe seperately
 
MF Dagger said:
If you run the hole saw backwards it lasts a bit longer.
Click to expand...
That is a myth that I have read over and over throughout the years. Maybe in drywall, but in plaster, I am 10,000% certain that it make no difference.
 
lumping appartments in manhattan

lumping appartments in manhattan

Years ago I used to lump appts in manhattan. Set price per all plaster. I snuck into adjascent appts to see what the other sparkys were doing and I found 2 hatchets on a ladder. It seems that works the fastest with the least damage to the plaster. The hardest part was trying to get my partner out of the clubs in the city and go home. He wasnt married too long after that. Spent all his money and blamed it on me. I just kept chopping and smiling. he just kept getting lapdances.
 
quogueelectric said:
I snuck into adjascent appts to see what the other sparkys were doing and I found 2 hatchets on a ladder. It seems that works the fastest with the least damage to the plaster.
Click to expand...
How do you utilize the hatchets? Do you do your box cutouts with them? Make slots in the wall?

My goal is to make it look like I was never there, if at all possible. Naturally, when a GC or homeowner says, "make holes where ever you need to", I can rip-n-tear with the best of them. The thought of a hatchet for ordinary plaster work sorta gives me the willies.
 
peter d said:
Where did you get the idea that it's not useful to know what the competition is charging on this forum? :confused: We've had many discussion about that very issue, and the concensus is that your competition probably isn't charging enough.
Click to expand...
How much is enough?In downtown NYC as compared to Cut And Shoot Texas enough has a wide difference,you have to price to your market and many things including competition can affect that market.
 
Rewire said:
How much is enough?In downtown NYC as compared to Cut And Shoot Texas enough has a wide difference,you have to price to your market and many things including competition can affect that market.
Click to expand...

Good point!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top