Proper flashing/conduit/strain relief of metal roof solar penetration?

[Wildcoastenergy]

Hey everyone -

I’ve got a unique situation and trying to make sure we do it correctly. My concern is how to properly seal and protect wires through a metal roof penetration on a solar install.

Penetrating a metal roof is no laughing matter (for me) and salty air/corrosion are also of concern here. Appreciate everyone’s insight in advance.

Background
Coastal area
Standing seam roof
Using S-5 Clamps so not a ton of clearance between roof and modules
Using Aztech Washer Co/dektite style flashing (low profile and recommended for metal roof penetration)
Single String from SE Optimizers + Ground

Example of conduit methods

Solar Multi-Port MR Master Flash® – Aztec Washer Company

masterflash.aztecwasher.com

Considered Option 1
- 1/2in EMT or SCH 40 PVC through the Flashing Glands with a 90+ degree turn above gland

Considered Option 2
- PV Wire Directly into the gland and into conduit sitting just at surface level of roof below the boot*

Considered Option 3
- liquid tite through gland (is ribbing going to make this a bad seal…?)

Actual flashing

Solar Multi-Port Square Base Flashing

ACCOMMODATES: one - 0" to 2" pipe two - 3/8" pipe/cable two - 3/4" pipe/cable DETAILS: allows for up to 4 cables or wires per flashing extra ports accommodate copper pipe & electrical cables easy installation for solar applications

protechonline.net

Note: Penetration and flashing will be under a module.

Manufacturer shows PV wire going directly into the gland but have concerns about strain relief on the PV wire before the flashing gland and proper bushing/protection at penetration.

*Better option I have not considered?

 

[jaggedben]

Option 1. But look up how to flash a plumbing vent on a standing seam roof. You don't need some special multiport flashing. Use EMT with a double rain collar. Put a LB right above the penetration and offset down the roof and support as close as possible.

 

[solarken]

If there is attic access, and the metal roof ribs are fairly deep, and the space between the flat and the ridge cap is wide enough, you might be able to remove the ridge cap, install two PVC elbows and a short length of pipe to get the PV wire into a jbox in the attic. I've done this here in Ohio, and there is no penetration of the metal, just had to trim away a little of the baffle material at the ridge cap. No real way for it to leak either. The double elbows are to get the bend horizontal, then downward, to get it to weave into the small space available. Photo below.

 

[Zee]

Toughie.
-Use EMT with an SLB (not LB) That saves you an inch or more.
-Choose the smallest diameter rubber cone flashing so the 1/2" opening will be low..... or else you will have the needed 1/2" opening up high on the cone tip. Yours looks perfect.
-Put the rails as high as possible in the slot on the (presumed) L feet you may be using on top of the S5's....unless you are using the S5 rail-less system.

Should just fit.