'pull through' for two-inch rigid on sidewinder: small offsets (<2")...

[stonewhite]

hello--

Please enlighten as to bending two-inch rigid with a sidewinder. Specifically, when bending, say, a 3/4" offset, the 30 degree bend is not possible as the multiplier of 2 will not work on the sidewinder--i.e., the 'hook' will not permit that second bend 1 1/2" from the first mark. So, the solution is to use a smaller degree bend, say, 7 or 8 degrees and a corresponding larger multiplier (luckily my tool buddy had an app in his i phone that provided all the parameters for any bend, any conduit, etc.).

There is, I believe, another remedy--using the 'pull through' measurement on the right side of the sidewinder--at the small wheel where the conduit sits while being drawn into and around the shoe. You would mark the conduit whatever the 'pull through' figure is, and when it reaches the wheel support, you stop. Turn over the conduit and repeat to create the offset (use a 'no dog', please).

Does anyone have the 'pull through' figures handy so that I might make a 3/4" offset on 2" rigid without using the 'degree-and-multiplier' method?

thank you

 

[Smart $]

What you suggest will not work. What you "pull through" is the radial distance of the bend. When you stopp after doing the first bend, back wind the shoe so you can roll the conduit 180?, your first bend will be in the "hook", and you won't even be able to have the shoe aligned to 0?. You will have to advance the conduit towards the hook at least the width of the hook. If you are using a Greenlee 555 (triple nickle) or its cousins 854 or 855, the hook is 4-1/2" beyond 0?.

According to my calculations, the shortest (using standard bending method) 3/4" offset you can make on a 555 is 7.5? with 5.75" between bend marks. Your pull through per bend would be 1.25", not accounting for springback.

 

[Smart $]

What you suggest will not work. ...

Let me clarify. You may be able to get a 3/4" offset that way, but I don't have any way of determining the values needed... because if you put the second bend on with the first bend upside down in the hook, you will partially unbend the first while bending the second... and you may even kink or "dent" the conduit.

Experimenting with a scrap piece (or likely pieces) would be easiest way to determine if it will work. I'd try 10?, which is about 1.67" pull through (0.167" per degree).

 

[Strathead]

hello--

Please enlighten as to bending two-inch rigid with a sidewinder. Specifically, when bending, say, a 3/4" offset, the 30 degree bend is not possible as the multiplier of 2 will not work on the sidewinder--i.e., the 'hook' will not permit that second bend 1 1/2" from the first mark. So, the solution is to use a smaller degree bend, say, 7 or 8 degrees and a corresponding larger multiplier (luckily my tool buddy had an app in his i phone that provided all the parameters for any bend, any conduit, etc.).

There is, I believe, another remedy--using the 'pull through' measurement on the right side of the sidewinder--at the small wheel where the conduit sits while being drawn into and around the shoe. You would mark the conduit whatever the 'pull through' figure is, and when it reaches the wheel support, you stop. Turn over the conduit and repeat to create the offset (use a 'no dog', please).

Does anyone have the 'pull through' figures handy so that I might make a 3/4" offset on 2" rigid without using the 'degree-and-multiplier' method?

thank you

Not that you are the first, but I am always a little perturbed when a person claims to be a Journeyman, and doesn't understand the concept of Pythagorean's theorem of A squared plus B squared equals C squared. You don't need an app on your i Phone. or at least you should know how to calculate your bends before you start using an app.

 

[Smart $]

Enough already. Let's keep it civil.

 

[iwire]

Enough already. Let's keep it civil.

I agree 100%

 

[twoelk]

Really?

 

[Fulthrotl]

I agree 100%

i only agree 72%, and you can't bend box offsets in 2" conduit very well.

if i have a little scooch i have to have, i just nudge it a bit, it's an eyeball
thing. a couple degrees, and flip it over, moving it the amount of the
claw on the shoe.

a rule of thumb left over from sine plate days in aerospace, is one
degree deviation for one inch long is .039642".

forty thousanths per inch per degree.... so, six inches between
marks is a quarter inch per degree, so you need 3 degrees.

more or less...

ps- i use a little 4" digital level that resolves .01 degree accurately,
and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference. scooches are done by
eyeball.

 

[ActionDave]

i use a little 4" digital level that resolves .01 degree accurately,
and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference. scooches are done by
eyeball.

I agree, back up to 100%. I trust my eyeballs...
actually eye.
I have to close one of them to get a clear image up close.
That digital level would make a good eye patch.
When I stand back I can use both eyes.
Most of what I do looks good.
The stuff that looks bad I don't tell anybody about.