Question regarding a service lateral conduit???

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jango

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I have a scenario where we installed a 4" PVC service lateral sweep into concrete to accomodate a 200A electrical service panel. Now the panel has been upgraded to a 400A service and the 4" PVC pipe is no longer in line with the knockout on the 400A panel below the meter. My hope is to heat a short length (3' or so) of a piece of 4" PVC in an approved PVC heat oven to give it the necessary offset to line up with the knockout of the 400A service panel. Are there any other suggestions on how to achieve this or should this method be ok. Also, would this be a call made by PG&E or the local Building Dept.? The good thing is that there will be a pull point in-ground box not too far away from the building. Any suggestions and/or feedback would be very helpful.
 
Set a pvc j-box on the floor over the 4" and run a straight piece of pipe up to the panel. Or put the box at the bottom of the panel. Which ever suits you.
 
Jango, If your good at bending the PVC, I think your idea will look fine. Your pull box is close so number of bends will not be an issue?? I'd go for it.
 
If his POCO is PG&E, 400A is the biggest service w/o CT's




PG&E will require that gutter to be sealable - so if you go that route, make sure you are covered.

I personally would heat bend some pvc.

~Matt
Don't forget their min bending radi... And the mandrel test...
 
Why can't you just get out the KO punch and make your own? I don't understand all this "install a gutter, install a box, heat up a pipe."

Unless you absolutely HAVE TO enter that knockout it's a waste of time and materials do anything but knock your own hole.:cool: I'm assuming the conduit is still under the panel and not to the side though.
 
Why can't you just get out the KO punch and make your own? I don't understand all this "install a gutter, install a box, heat up a pipe."

Unless you absolutely HAVE TO enter that knockout it's a waste of time and materials do anything but knock your own hole.:cool: I'm assuming the conduit is still under the panel and not to the side though.


I assumed it's not off enough for that so punching another hole will end up oval or binocular shape.

I think factory KOs on this type of equipment should be banned.
 
I assumed it's not off enough for that so punching another hole will end up oval or binocular shape.

I think factory KOs on this type of equipment should be banned.

I definitely agree.

I knock holes anywhere I have to, even if it punches through just the edge of the rings. That's what a sharp 3/8" drill bit is for. Drill the hole where you need it, use the small arbor in my quickdraw punch to knock it out to a 1/2" conduit size hole. Then put in the regular arbor and knock it out to the required size. Just got to make sure your punches/dies are sharp or you'll pull the rest of the rings out if it snags.:mad:
 
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