Quick method for estimating?

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chrisb

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I?ve been doing service work and small additions most of my career. All the new apartments and houses I have done is a long time ago.

Does anyone have a quick method of assembling quotes on non-engineered drawings (residential)? The GC gave me the drawings today and there is nothing to work with. No electrical noted or ?E? sheets. A good friend owns the home and told the GC to have me do the work. Apparently, his regular electrician is tough to get along with; I?ve heard this from other customers as well. The GC indicated he needs to move on to another electrician and I have a pretty good opportunity for a new customer. This GC is very well respected and I?d like to kick this relationship off on the right foot.

I have a good friend that is experienced in larger remodels and is available for working on the project to keep me out of trouble and to get my confidence back. I need to put this quote together in the next few days. By the way, the house is currently 1,900 sq/ft single story, going to a 2 story 3750 sq/footer. Again, at this point I need a quick way of putting the quote together.

Your thoughts are appreciated - Thanks.
 
Gulp.

Well, first you need to pencil in lights, switches, recs, etc, to NEC minimum (or how you'd wire it, if that exceeds NEC). Now, there's your electrical prints. :grin: Consequently, it's fairly normal (for me at least) to not have electrical prints on normal homes.

Since you have no historical data to work from, you'll need to use a scale or a scalemaster to figure about how much cable you'll be using of each gauge, and count boxes and recs and such. You'll have to use your gut or your historical data from your service work to know how much time you'll spend at each opening.

That's the best I have to offer you based on your lack of historical data of your own.

Some guys use "per hole" or "per square foot" prices for quick estimating. This might work for you after you get a few under your belt and figure out your per hole or per square foot price. Resist the urge to use someone else's numbers. In the beginning, use other people's per hole or per square foot numbers to compare your actual takeoff estimation to. I did figure out my per square foot price for residential a few times, and it's around 6 bucks, for what that's worth.
 
Mdshunk - is that $6 per sq ft just labor, or does it include any material?

Fixtures can really add to the overall job's final price, and I usually quote med. grade receptacles, switches, etc - and then give a lighting allowance. If the HO or GC want spec. grade hardware, then we work that out up front. Start to get in to "smart home" stuff, and it gets a little more complicated.

Brett
 
chrisb said:
A good friend owns the home and told the GC to have me do the work. Apparently, his regular electrician is tough to get along with.
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An electrician that's tough to get along with is one that wishes to be paid for additional work.

I just finished a project for a good friend ( 3 months ago ), it took him two years to talk me into breaking my " never work for friends rule " and by the time it was over I wished I had never started the job.

If you are going to do this job then get with your friend and fill in the blanks.
Decide who is going to pay for materials ( let him because freinds don't like paying a mark-up and you won't have to worry about materials cost ). Then help your friend do a lay-out on the prints that you do have ( fixtures, receptacles and switches ). Once you have a count on devices then you can come up with a labor cost ( remember that you are working for a friend so add a little there, OLd Buddy). Don't get caught between the GC and the friend, find out who you are working for and deal directly with them.

By the end of this job you will probably get to make a choice of which is more important, friendship or money. Your friend is betting it will be friendship because you don't have a proven track record doing this sort of work ( why else would he choose you).
 
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"An electrician that's tough to get along with is one that wishes to be paid for additional work."

I have met alot of electricians, plumbers, HVAC and alike that are a pain to work with. Selffish SOBs that act like the world has done them wrong. A mason that does rock work is our local joke. I often follow him on projects installing lighting. I will say to the homeowner" So how is everything going? Rick did a nice job on the rock" They unload... " The customer always says something like; "He is so bazarre. He told me if he wasn't slow right now he wouldn't have taken the job." Very stupid comments like this. He's slow because nobody wants to be around him and he creates drama on the job.

The resaon they want me to do the job is, not only are we freinds, but last year I rewired their 1890's historical home in 4 days and with only 2 small cuts in the drywall. Also, I always tried to put them first and tried to keep my presents in their home to a minimum. On price and on time. Something most of you guys do all the time but what some choose not to.
 
are the houses 200A or 400A services?
My experience is that with out drawings you have to make measurements and determine how many drops per room you have. Don't forget drops to appliances(you'll need to know what they're planning to install and where)
The quickest way to estimate is to determine how many drops are required to satisfy the NEC. Once you have the number of drops set a price per drop that covers materials, time, and adjust as necessary for profit.
 
chrisb said:
The resaon they want me to do the job is, not only are we freinds, but last year I rewired their 1890's historical home in 4 days and with only 2 small cuts in the drywall. Also, I always tried to put them first and tried to keep my presents in their home to a minimum. On price and on time. Something most of you guys do all the time but what some choose not to.
Click to expand...

If they are friends then take a good look at how long you think it is going to take. Give yourself plenty of time. Give them a guaranteed maximum price. Then do the job, in a professional workmanlike manner in a fair amount of time. Hopefully there will be a little money left over to give back. Then you will have two happy people. Again, I say, gove yourself plenty of time, just because you did the first one in 4 days, dosen't mean this one will be in 4 days. Be fair with yourself along with the customer.
 
I have done a ton of jobs on the fly for friends and others. The best way is to draw up an electrical plan. Find out who you are working for and make sure it is satisfactory to whomever. Count your outlets and switches and using your print scale figure out your home runs and your circuit paths to get a rough wire length. Figure for appliances and dedicated circuits. Don't forget breakers. Labor is tough, everyone may work faster or slower. Use your judgment. Never include light fixtures in your bid. Let the GC or HO buy them. Don't forget labor to install. Try and find out if there will be any crazy fixtures that require a ton of time to assemble. After yo do a few you will get a feel for it. Keep a daily log too.
 
USe a Excell spreadsheet

USe a Excell spreadsheet

For quick quotes I suggest you use Excell spreadsheet.

This quick way to calculate your costs of goods and labor.
Then you can add you markup say charge 50% extra on goods and 55$ an hour.

This is the best way in my opinion to do quick and accurate quotes.

I have one quick question
Have you other electrical contractors considered adding
CCTV installation and products to your business?
i
f you want to chat more my MSN...

Deleted contact info, please exchange info via PM.
 
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Quick easy and accurate for me is about $4.50 per sq foot.

This is for wiring to code only with basic switches & receptacles.
Add for addtional items:
Recessed lights
Dimmers
Quiet bath fans
Central air
Closet lights
etc
I also do not supply any surface mount decorative type light fixtures
 
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