Range Wiring

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laketime

laketime

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Was at a customers house doing a backup generator. Energized house and I was walking around testing things. Noticed the electric range's digital display was not working...figured no120v. The lady that owns the house said the appliance delivery guys wired it and the cook top work but no other functions. So as a nice guy I went to check it out. Its a 4 wire 120/240v range connected to a 3 wire 240v receptacle. The guys used the old cord and bonded the ground to the neutral in the range which seemed good to me. I test the voltage A-B=240v B-G=217v A-C=47v. I was like ok something wrong with receptacle...nope all good. I take the cord off range and voltages and it checks out A-B=240v A-G=120v B-G 120v. Put it back on the range and the wacky voltages come back. What am I missing?
 
On one range I encountered the bond jumper was white as well as the range neutral and bot had to be connected to the neutral. I missed the internal neutral on 1st view.
 
augie47 said:
On one range I encountered the bond jumper was white as well as the range neutral and bot had to be connected to the neutral. I missed the internal neutral on 1st view.
Click to expand...
I just saw three wires coming out of the range to a terminal block.
 
laketime said:
I just saw three wires coming out of the range to a terminal block.
Click to expand...
The range doesn't provide a neutral, the neutral is brought to the range. The voltage shouldn't change just because the cord is connected. I think there is a problem with the neutral of the branch circuit. You're reading correct voltage with the cord off and incorrect with the cord on.
I think when the cord is connected, it it causing a small load, that load is killing the reading because there is a problem. Similar to reading "ghost voltage".

To test this, get a pigtail socket with a light bulb. Put one lead of the pigtail on one of the hot conductors and the other on the neutral. If the bulb doesn't light, you have confirmed bad neutral. If you have a Wiggy/solinoid tester that should show you as well.
 
Little Bill said:
The range doesn't provide a neutral, the neutral is brought to the range. The voltage shouldn't change just because the cord is connected. I think there is a problem with the neutral of the branch circuit. You're reading correct voltage with the cord off and incorrect with the cord on.
I think when the cord is connected, it it causing a small load, that load is killing the reading because there is a problem. Similar to reading "ghost voltage".

To test this, get a pigtail socket with a light bulb. Put one lead of the pigtail on one of the hot conductors and the other on the neutral. If the bulb doesn't light, you have confirmed bad neutral. If you have a Wiggy/solinoid tester that should show you as well.
Click to expand...
Makes sense. Thanks for the information.
 
check your voltages. if you're good then tell them to call the appliance company
 
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