The important thing is to use a torque driver and torque it to the manufacturers specification.Do most here re tighten aluminum conductors after they’ve been in service for awhile? A couple of times that I’ve had the opportunity to return to a job I have found I can get a bit more tightness out of it
Having worked in a factory setting and seeing who and how they come up with much of this stuff, and based on many manufacturers instructions / recommendations I see, really don't have a lot of faith in them honestly.and only one of those comes from the mfg.
That (A,B, & C) is exactly what happens with small aluminum wires under device screws. Cycling currents, like kitchen appliances and televisions, made it happen more than steady currents.
Proper torque is at the time of installation.That (A,B, & C) is exactly what happens with small aluminum wires under device screws. Cycling currents, like kitchen appliances and televisions, made it happen more than steady currents.
And just to be pedantic, the spring washer maintains pressure, not torque.
That sounds familiar. See my AHJ belowProper torque is at the time of installation.
The older Al alloys seemed to be softer and more prone to loosening. Loose connections also benefited from removal, brushing, application of corrosion inhibitor and then torqueing. Sometimes just retorqueing did not improve FOP testing.A few months ago working in 1990 panel, one of the 4/0 wires slid out of main breaker
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