Reccomended wireless 3-way dimmers?

Status
Not open for further replies.
jjhoward

jjhoward

Senior Member
Location
Northern NJ
Occupation
Owner TJ Electric
I am considering various ways to get old-work 3-way switching done in a long hallway.
I (and the customer) would like to minimize the cutting open of the walls & ceiling. I used some X-10 stuff in the past and was not too happy with it.

Any wireless reccomendations or is the wireless approach a pipe dream??

I am looking to install 3-4 scones down this 15' long hallway with 3-way dimmers at both ends.

Thank you all.

Joe
 
jjhoward said:
I am considering various ways to get old-work 3-way switching done in a long hallway.
I (and the customer) would like to minimize the cutting open of the walls & ceiling. I used some X-10 stuff in the past and was not too happy with it.

Any wireless reccomendations or is the wireless approach a pipe dream??

I am looking to install 3-4 scones down this 15' long hallway with 3-way dimmers at both ends.

Thank you all.

Joe
Click to expand...
If you are going to fish 3 or 4 sconces down the hallway then why not just hard wire the 3 ways. Lutron has a decora style dimmer called the Maestro that can be dimmed from both locations.
maestro-copy.jpg
They also make the Maestro with a remote
 
Joe,

I've used X-10 equipment on many occasions and have had both successes and failures. The thing you have to be careful with is the wattage rating on the dimmers. The older ones, from what I remember, were only rated for 300 watts. I believe they have newer models now that bump you up to 600 watts but you'll pay more for them. Also, there are many appliances that will block the X-10 signal. The unfortunate part is you won't know that until you're well into the job. Make sure you buy a couple of plug-in filters. Laptop computer rechargers are notorious for this problem.

Phil
Gold Star Electric
New Jersey
 
I use Leviton's HC all the time, the only time I have a problem is when a signal bridge is not installed, just make sure you follow the manufactures instructions when using any x10 product...

XPCR.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joe, I too have used wireless controls, but before I'd recommend them, what is the configuration of what you have and the changes you want to make?

If it's just changing a single switch to a pair of 3-ways, I'd look at how tough it would be to run a 3-conductor cable from the switch to the new place.

Unless this is the middle floor of a 3-story house, it shouldn't take more than a couplke of hours, and require no patching. So, more info, please.
 
More info (sorry for the delay) It was a Saturday dinner out!

This is a 2nd story townhouse in a 3 story unit. Living space above and below.
Long hallway with only a ceiling fixture that will remain. So, I need the two switches at each end of the hallway and the associated travelers and of course the wires to the sconces that will be mounted along the length of the hall on only 1 wall.

I can get power at both ends for the new switches. Going wireless would eliminate the travelers from sw to sw. Trusses in the ceilings might convince me to just put in hardwired switches. But if the ceiling joists are solid lumber or composite beams, there would lot's of cutting nesessary. It's not a problem for me to do it, just would be alot of patching to be done.

If some of you have used some wireless components that work, I will probably be prepared to install them (and of course up sell it to the happy HOs).
 
Hi Larry,
There are receptacles in the wall near the locations of both switches.

There are 2 switch boxes there now for the ceiling fixture. I am hoping that there will be power in one of them. Where there isn't power, I will tap into a receptacle near by.

What are you thinking about??
 
I'm thinking about running cabling the length of the hallway vs. using wireless.

To hard-wire them, you'd need a cable run the length of the hallway. You can get away with making a 1/2" x 2" notch in the drywall at each stud, and fish from slot to slot, except where you cross doorways.

If you can place each of the sconces within fishing distance of a hot and neu..., excuse me, a hot and grounded conductor (check both sides of the wall), you can use in-line modules within each fixture box, a transmitter at each switch location, and avoid patching.

Here's the wireless way:

One of these inside each fixture box, if you want dimming: http://homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=142

Or one of these in each if you don't, or they're fluorescent: http://homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=143

For a Decora-style transmitter at each desired location: http://homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=916

Here is an inexpensive transmitter, with one button: http://homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=182

Here's a variety of transmitters: http://homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=140&cat=ALL+Brands
 
By the way, there's another possibility: do it the old-fashioned way: remove the baseboards, fish the cables down to the bottom of the stud bays, and run them horizontally below the bottom edge of the drywall. Just be careful when renailing the baseboards.
 
With X-10 the bridge is important. I used to not like spending the money on one. Sometimes it works to move breakers around so the sending / recieving devices are on the same leg. Saves a little money and gets you out of a situation where the signal seems weak.
 
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the suggestions. The switches are at the ends of the hallways (of course) but they are also on diffent sides of the hallway. So, if I am running the wires (no wireless) I must go up to the ceiling and cross over and come down the other wall.

Wireless or not I need to run cable along the wall to get a switch leg to all 3 or 4 sconces.

I do have a receptacle very close to the spot for the switch on the wall opposite the "sconce wall". So, the wireless solution could keep one wall untouched.
BillJ, I agree, it is better to be safe than sorry with x-10. gotta put in a bridge.
Dont' you guys every sleep?
 
bill j said:
With X-10 the bridge is important. I used to not like spending the money on one. Sometimes it works to move breakers around so the sending / recieving devices are on the same leg. Saves a little money and gets you out of a situation where the signal seems weak.
Click to expand...

Yes you can try that, but on bigger homes with multiple panels, the repeater/coupler is the only way to go, I only use Levitons x10 products, And I also bought all the troubleshooting tools to go with it...
 
Signal bridges are a good idea but may not always solve the problem. Also, if you're buying Levitton X-10 you're over-paying for the products. You can go to the X-10 Pro site or to Smarthome.com and get a larger selection of products for less $$$.
 
Yeh, and when theres a problem who am I going to return the product to? I dont buy online and sell it to a costumer... If there is a problem with a product I want to be able to have it taken care of that day....
 
jjhoward said:
Wireless or not I need to run cable along the wall to get a switch leg to all 3 or 4 sconces.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily. Check my post with the links again. The in-line modules are receivers that fit inside 4" boxes.

If you can find a receptacle anywhere near where you'd like a sconce, on either side of either wall, just bring a hot'n'neutral into each fixture box, and use an inline module in each box, all set to the same house and unit codes.

This way, the only fishing you need to do is vertical, once for each sconce.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top