Recessed Lighting - tools of choice?

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

bjp_ne_elec

Senior Member
Location
Southern NH
What's the best all-around tool that you guys usee to open the holes for recessed lights - considering various size (3", 4" 6") and the various materials (acoutic tile, sheet rock - and any other material you may have ran in to). I know I saw some universal deal - but I can't remember where I saw it.

Just pricing three different jobs and they all happen to have recessed fixtures - and right now it's looking like they'll cover the three sizes listed above. Have dealt with acoutic tile (the ceiling guy cut the holes for me by hand - boy did I toss him a tip) and the other job was that fiberglass panels - and I cut that by hand with my utility knife.

Any other tools that make installing receessed lights slicker? I'm starting to get some work, and have to start making some investment in some labor saving tools. :)

Thanks

Brett
 
Greenlee make an adjustable hole saw for recessed cans. It's okay, if you're on a budget. At this point in time, I've accumulated the "real" hole saw for nearly every size recessed can. The Rack-A-Teers "Driller's Dust Bowl" is a really nice accessory!


HPIM0579.jpg
 
I think I may have mentioned this set-up - many times

RZ20tool_RZ_pd.jpg

A Rotozip and correct bits...

CRCT1_pd.jpg

...make sure you either buy a kit that has the"Circle Guide" (3.5" - 12") or buy it stand alone ~ #CRCT1


RZVAC1_RZ_pd.jpg

The Rotozip vacuum attachment ~ #RZVAC1

DC500_1.gif

Dewalt DC500 (battery/corded operation)


There really isn't much this set-up doesn't handle - neatly and cleanly.
 
Last edited:
I've used a Roto-zip, but if the thing is even a little loose you can end up cutting the hole to big. I just stick with the good old fasioned dry wall saw.
 
Would any of those cut through lath and plaster? I have tried the rotozip, the bits just heat up and glow. I also tried a hole saw, but the teeth dulled very quickly.
 
Fubar411 said:
Would any of those cut through lath and plaster? I have tried the rotozip, the bits just heat up and glow. I also tried a hole saw, but the teeth dulled very quickly.
Click to expand...

Click on the link below and then click on FAQ.

The first FAQ is about cutting lathe & plaster.

http://www.holepro.com/
 
I'd stay away from the RotoZip on plaster/lath. It takes forever, and it makes a lot of smoke when the glowing bit rubs against the lath.

If you want to go with a hole saw, that works OK as long as you have one made for that kind of surface (masonry, tile, plaster) because a regular bi-metal one will get dull very fast.

Usually what I do on plaster/lath is use a cold chisel to break away the plaster (after scoring it first), then use a jigsaw to carefully and slowly cut through the lath. You have to go slowly to avoid rattling the lath and thus breaking the plaster.

I try to avoid installing recessed cans in plaster/lath ceilings because the clips on the remodel cans are sized for drywall, and I've run into problems making them fit on the thicker plaster/lath ceilings.
 
I use the drywall hand saw myself. Using even carbide holesaws on plaster dulls them way too quickly. Celtic's set up is nice, too.
 
jeff43222 said:
I'd stay away from the RotoZip on plaster/lath. It takes forever, and it makes a lot of smoke when the glowing bit rubs against the lath.
Click to expand...
Sometimes you have to make 2 passes...one through the plaster, then "lenghten" the cutting depth for the plaster.
Othertimes you have to make 2 passes with 2 different type bits.

Trying to rush the job will result in many burnt out bits and lots of colorful language!
 
j_erickson said:
I use the drywall hand saw myself.
Click to expand...

Same here. I am old fashioned like that, even though I am still in my 20's. ;) Why? Less dust flying everywhere, easy to control, and no chance of damaging the ceiling (or yourself) if something goes wrong.
 
peter d said:
....and no chance of damaging the ceiling (or yourself) if something goes wrong.
Click to expand...

I read that like 5x...I don't get it.
If something goes wrong when cutting a hole, that's called damage ;)
 
That dedends on what it is that goes wrong, like slipping off the ladder, cutting blind into a wire, hitting a block..... Lots of thing can go wrong and leave the ceiling and worker intact.
 
We have an adjustable hole saw at our shop that has the dust shroud and an adjustable depth setting all built in. Good for 3" to 8" if i remember correctly. I'll check out who makes it on Monday. Very handy.
 
Here's a picture of me using a "Remgrit" Hole Saw on my can lights. Drilled 13 holes with it and the last was as clean as the first. Plaster over button board. I took my time so as not to overheat it. Yeah it was a mess, but that is what shop vacs are for. That's my wife holding up the shield. I have a 4inch model I've used on a dozen can lights and used for 3 holes in stucco for lighting outlets. I got them at Home Depot.

I'm always happy when I find a tool that helps me.

I've done the Rotozip on my plaster and yes I agree one shallow cut first. Sometimes a total of three cuts. Patience is a virtue here. Bits last longer also.

holesawcloseup.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top