Recessed Trims

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mark32 said:
I'm unsure if this is a dumb question or not but are recessed trims rated for halogens?

If the trim is rated for a par lamp than I don't think it matters if it is halogen or incandescent. I think it is the style bulb and wattage that matters. As stated check the can for the info.
 
PITA =

Big hands, tiny springs.

Black hole, old eyes

The attachment points for the springs aren't in a good place. If you try to attach them to the part that holds the socket it pulls the lamp crooked.

The springs always fall off.

They don't cover deep enough into the can and the silver inside the can shows thru...unless you can find an R 40 to put in;)
 
The question I ask here is related to the one I asked recently about a 65 watt BR30 and a 75 watt PAR30L, both of which are listed in a Halo trim I had observed. In a snippet posted from Dennis, it was said that a halogen will operate at a similar temp as an incandescent of equal wattage would. However, that doesn't entirely explain the allowable 10 watt increase of the halogen. One theory a coworker has is the PAR, being a better bulb, directs/reflects the heat better than the BR. Aside from all this, I've looked over a number of cans and trims in different models and from different manufacturers and none say anything about halogen. The cans do state that it is an incandescent fixture but then again aren't halogens a form of incandescent?

In reference to 220/221's post, that's why I prefer Halo trim # 30. The socket just snaps in, no farting around with the socket height or springs and no silver internals showing through.
 
The letters (BR, PAR, etc.) designate shape codes. Different shaped lamps dissipate heat in different ways. That's why some shapes can be used at higher wattages than others.





A Arbitrary (standard) – universal use for home lighting

B Bullet – decorative

BR Bulging reflector – for substitution of incandescent R lamps

C Cone shape – used mostly for small appliances and indicator lamps

ER Elliptical reflector – for substitution of incandescent R lamps

F Flame – decorative interior lighting

G Globe – ornamental lighting and some floodlights

P Pear – standard for streetcar and locomotive headlights

PAR Parabolic aluminized – used in spotlights and floodlights reflector

S Straight – lower wattage lamp – sign and decorative

T Tubular – showcase and appliance lighting
 
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electricmanscott said:
Is there a story we want to hear?

Square recessed trims all in long STRAIGHT lines - everywhere! 100 of them.... Job spec = zero tolorance on placement.... well 1/32" :rolleyes: That was 1st half of battle....

  1. Framers keep 'adjusting' framing knocking out of square... Had to install 2 additional hanger bars to LOCK into place.
  2. Varied firring on level 5 finished ceilings - the trims only adjust in increments of 1/4" from can housing.... Rockers throw extra 1/8" of mud to level float = all cans trim edges recessed 1/8".
  3. Cooked housing = crooked trim getting guys to put in cans level with finished ceiling - like pulling teeth!
  4. Bad toroidal transformer wont fit through opening. Checked before rock - good. Rock up a few weeks later - BAD!
  5. 1/32" clearance on mud-in trim edge to trim. Mudders slop mud in it - Painters slop paint in it - trim won't fit in....
  6. Start over with 4-5 trade install.....
 
mark32 said:
The question I ask here is related to the one I asked recently about a 65 watt BR30 and a 75 watt PAR30L, both of which are listed in a Halo trim I had observed. In a snippet posted from Dennis, it was said that a halogen will operate at a similar temp as an incandescent of equal wattage would. However, that doesn't entirely explain the allowable 10 watt increase of the halogen. One theory a coworker has is the PAR, being a better bulb, directs/reflects the heat better than the BR. Aside from all this, I've looked over a number of cans and trims in different models and from different manufacturers and none say anything about halogen. The cans do state that it is an incandescent fixture but then again aren't halogens a form of incandescent?

In reference to 220/221's post, that's why I prefer Halo trim # 30. The socket just snaps in, no farting around with the socket height or springs and no silver internals showing through.

Yes. Halogens are a form of incandescent. You are fine with a 75W Halogen Par Lamp.

Since the 75wBR lamp was a discontinued product they are unlikely to list it as a possible lamp type. If for no other reason than it makes it really hard to test the fixture with that lamp... Manufacturers usually list the highest wattage that they were able to successfully test in the fixture, not just what it was designed to handle.
 
if you use lightolier the trim is part of the housing and the whole thing slips up until its snug...no monkey business.
 
Sorry I thing I went on one of my little tangents again......

Recessed cans - or recessed "Trims"? As in the so-called "trimless" variety???? Like these? (Look at the destructions - you'll see what I mean)
 
220/221 said:
PITA =

Big hands, tiny springs.

Black hole, old eyes

The attachment points for the springs aren't in a good place. If you try to attach them to the part that holds the socket it pulls the lamp crooked.

The springs always fall off.

They don't cover deep enough into the can and the silver inside the can shows thru...unless you can find an R 40 to put in;)


I use lithonia lighting recessed. No springs, no nonsense. just attach the lampholder to the top of the trim and push it in the hole. it has 'clips' on the side that wedge the trim into the housing. no ugly open trims either. they completely surround the bulb. you can't buy them at big box stores either, which means if your customers can't price shop you on them, and they're a rare find on the internet. i've only found one company that sells the residential version online and they were around 10x what i pay for them. a 6" IC housing runs $8.28, and basic white trim is $5.16. I use the LCP housing and C01 trims standard. the LCP is the "premium" housing (has more depth adjustment). They have a standard model that is about $2 cheaper.

Lithonia Housing
 
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