Removing the main breaker or main breaker feed for a Generac Installation

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hello all... new here so my advance apologies as I learn the ropes.

I am a Generac Dealer and long time electrician, recently we have had a surge of generator installs and are coming up with a few questions. There are several choices for Generac Automatic Transfer Switches (ATS). one of them is a SE rated switch(service entrance). the SE rated has a Service Rated 200 amp breaker for the sake of this conversation, then there is the 200 amp no SE rated switch without a breaker incorporated.

For the purpose of this conversation, we are going to assume a 22kw Gen for a whole house application, as opposed to just selected loads.

In some panels, we can take the feed from the meter when it is accessible enough where we can splice the meter feed and run it to the Non SE rated switch without a breaker and bring the conductors back and feed it to the input side of the existing main breaker. basically placing the transfer switch schematically between the meter and the main breaker.

Also, again on a whole house application, when the feeder from the meter side of the panel is a cable but there is not enough space to bring the 3/0 or 4/0 and feed into the main breaker, we can remove the main breaker and eliminate it, use UL listed Polaris connectors and take the meeter feed to the SE rated ATS, and bring back the output side of the ATS with the 200 amp main service rated breaker to the buss on the existing main and backfeed using a Eaton Cutler Hammer BRS225- 225 amp rated Lug Block and the whole panels is now fed by the gen and the utility when on utility power, and the gen when there is a blackout and the grid is isolated.

According to Generac this is perfectly fine, but during a permit application process, the plan checker was telling me that is modifying the panel and it voids the UL listing.

Same plan checker was saying that if we penetrate a panel on the back it also voids the UL listing of the panel, same with on the top or anywhere where there is not a manufacturer's knockout!!! what about panels without a knockout? I have seen those in commercial applications if I recall. when I asked him that, he didn't have an answer aside from "that's how we do it here".

To be clear on the penetrations, the panels are flush mount and the penetrations are made from the inside of the garage wall, so weather should not be a question.

This seems silly since the panel is not modified in any way, Polaris is an approved method and UL listed. The Main panel, to my knowledge, is an approved enclosure and therefore a proper splice should not be an issue.

Also... why do we have knockout tools if we can make knockouts?

Can anyone help me out here? thanks in advance.. I have marked up some photos and have attached.

hope I didn't ramble on ... thanks again.

I dont seem be able to make the attachment from my computer:unsure:
 
If the local AHJ prefers working with an NRTL for field evaluations of modified equipment, then perhaps ask for an NRTL recommendation, properly patronize that NRTL, and roll them into project cost.
 
A few key things: anything connected to the line side of the service disconnect is service equipment and must be SUSE. If you connect a switch only after the meter, it must become the service disconnect and must be service rated. Then your over current protection must be immediately adjacent to the transfer switch.

Even if the transfer switch has a breaker built in, there is no reason to remove the main breaker in the existing panel. Why bother? Sounds like you are going thru hoops to remove it.

The knock out nonsense is total garbage. Recently a thread on that in the PV forum. Perhaps you can get a letter from the manufacturer stating custom Kos are allowed.
 
Just wanted to add:. In fact it may be BETTER to leave the panel main breaker because the main breaker in the transfer switch may not series rate with the branch breakers. Keeping the main breaker keeps your standard 22/10 series rating intact. Often not an issue for residential, but could be.
 
Same plan checker was saying that if we penetrate a panel on the back it also voids the UL listing of the panel, same with on the top or anywhere where there is not a manufacturer's knockout!!! what about panels without a knockout? I have seen those in commercial applications if I recall. when I asked him that, he didn't have an answer aside from "that's how we do it here".

To be clear on the penetrations, the panels are flush mount and the penetrations are made from the inside of the garage wall, so weather should not be a question.
UL listed enclosures include the proviso that openings made in the enclosure have to be closed with something that meets the same standards as the enclosure. UL50 I think is the standard for general purpose enclosures. Somewhere in that standard or one of the standards it references there is a list of what you can do as far as closing an opening you might make.

Removing a main breaker is something entirely different though.
 
In some panels, we can take the feed from the meter when it is accessible enough where we can splice the meter feed and run it to the Non SE rated switch without a breaker and bring the conductors back and feed it to the input side of the existing main breaker. basically placing the transfer switch schematically between the meter and the main breaker.
This is absolutely not compliant and dangerous!
 
Texie.. thanks for the reply- can you elaborate on how it is not compliant or dangerous? to be clear, we dont do this live, the meter is removed so the conductors are not live.

Thanks.
 
A few key things: anything connected to the line side of the service disconnect is service equipment and must be SUSE. If you connect a switch only after the meter, it must become the service disconnect and must be service rated. Then your over current protection must be immediately adjacent to the transfer switch.

Even if the transfer switch has a breaker built in, there is no reason to remove the main breaker in the existing panel. Why bother? Sounds like you are going thru hoops to remove it.

The knock out nonsense is total garbage. Recently a thread on that in the PV forum. Perhaps you can get a letter from the manufacturer stating custom Kos are allowed.

correct... the SE rated ATS has the 200 amp Breaker within the switch enclosure so the OCPD is inside so i assume better than adjacent.

When there is enough roof for the connectors, we leave the Main breaker in place, no harm in having two OCPDs... only when we need the space that the Main Breaker occupies for the Polaris connectors do we remove the main.

getting to someone at the manufacturer to get a letter could be interesting... anyone done this before so I know where to start?

Thanks.
 
One more question... when the feed from the meter lug to the service breaker is cable, is it considered modifying the cables are removed and replaced with longer of the same gage cable and run it to the transfer switch to save the space the polaris connector takes?
 
Texie.. thanks for the reply- can you elaborate on how it is not compliant or dangerous? to be clear, we dont do this live, the meter is removed so the conductors are not live.

Thanks.
A transfer switch must have a properly rated OCPD ahead of the switch.
 
the service rated switch has an OCPD ahead of the switch within the same enclosure.

the Non service rated switch does not have an OCPD in it, becasue it is downstream of the Main breaker which is the OCPD in place of the service rated one.

hope that makes sense
 
I am having a hard time following this :unsure:

I see how I can attach a file now...

in the photo, you will see the short feeder wires coming from the meter lug behind the meter, if the meter lug is loosened and the cable removed, another cable long enough to go from the meter lug to the transfer switch without a splice can be installed... so the question is, since the short pre bent wires from the meter lug are removed, is that modifying the panel?
 

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the service rated switch has an OCPD ahead of the switch within the same enclosure.

the Non service rated switch does not have an OCPD in it, becasue it is downstream of the Main breaker which is the OCPD in place of the service rated one.

hope that makes sense


Ok if it is after a breaker then sure it's fine, but in the OP you said:

"we can take the feed from the meter when it is accessible enough where we can splice the meter feed and run it to the Non SE rated switch without a breaker and bring the conductors back and feed it to the input side of the existing main breaker"

Sure sounded like you were going from the load side of a meter to a non SE switch. Maybe you have a meter/main not just a meter?
 
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