Residential crimp-on ground sleeves

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supergeek

Member
Location
Los Angeles
Ok, admittedly, I'm pretty pathetic for not knowing the answer to this question, but here it is........ What's the deal with the short crimp-on ground sleeves used in house wiring? I'm from a commercial/industrial background and we always just use wirenuts. Is this a code requirement, or are they cheaper or faster or something? I don't have anything against them, it just seems like a lot of trouble to carry around the sleeves, the crimping tool, etc. Thanks!
 

macmikeman

Senior Member
For the same reason you also won't find too many spec grade receptacle outlets in residential jobs. Most devices you are going to come across in houses cost about .56 cents apiece. In the case of crimp tubes, speed is the key. I use the Thomas and Betts ones so that I can use the Thomas and Betts listed crimper, which is not that slow bulky 4 point thing that Buchannon lists for crimping its tubes. In a bit I will get called a hack, but once I twist up the grounds real quick,and then crimp on a tube its as fast as spinnning on a nut, and the connection is every bit as tight. Fire away, all you anti crimp tubers.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
We use the Greenie wire nut with the hole in the end for the pigtail. I can't comment on the price comparison because we never use those crimps. I prefer a connection that is easily opened for additions or changes, which IMO a crimp is not.
 

Brady Electric

Senior Member
Location
Asheville, N. C.
Residential crimp on ground sleeves

Residential crimp on ground sleeves

Its mostly old school, I was taught to use sleeves which I call sta cons and crimp them with a sta con tool. I've seen all kinds and its mostly what you choose, most important is making a good connection no matter what you use. Semper Fi
 
Brady Electric said:
Its mostly old school, I was taught to use sleeves which I call sta cons and crimp them with a sta con tool. I've seen all kinds and its mostly what you choose, most important is making a good connection no matter what you use. Semper Fi


I agree with the bold part here.

to throw in a monkeywrench to this thread, those crimps technically are not listed for grounding purposes...:rolleyes:
 

don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
Pierre,
to throw in a monkeywrench to this thread, those crimps technically are not listed for grounding purposes...:rolleyes:
Neither are wirenuts, except the green one. Just another example of stupid rules. The standard wire nut is suitable to supply the current into the fault, but not suitable to be part of the fault clearing path!!!
Don
 

jwelectric

Senior Member
Location
North Carolina
Grounds?

Why grounds?

The little crimpy thing-a-ma-jigger and a little tape for all connections!

First twist conductors until they look like they came from the factory looking like that.
Second crimp the little crimpy thing-a-ma-jigger
Third three rounds on Monkey Grip
Forth three rounds of the slick black tape
Done!

Used on all joints.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
jwelectric said:
Grounds?

Why grounds?

The little crimpy thing-a-ma-jigger and a little tape for all connections!

First twist conductors until they look like they came from the factory looking like that.
Second crimp the little crimpy thing-a-ma-jigger
Third three rounds on Monkey Grip
Forth three rounds of the slick black tape
Done!

Used on all joints.
Really? :-?
 

sparkydon

Member
buchanons..

buchanons..

I used to carry around that darn fourway crimper but it takes too long...I'm interested in how much the T&B crimper and connectors cost...

Red Wirenuts and a make-up bit seem to be the quickest way of terminating ground wires, but people seem to think they arent intended to carry ground fault current..why not?
 

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
I use wire-nuts or Buchannans. I do find that there are some things that are easier with a crimp than a wire nut -- for instance those old residential boxes with 3 or 4 18 guage grounds about 1.5" long. I can get a buchannan back there with a #14 better than a wire nut. Also, (box-fill aside) for existing boxes, a crimp takes up MUCH less room.

Mark
 

chris kennedy

Senior Member
Location
Miami Fla.
Occupation
60 yr old tool twisting electrician
Pierre C Belarge said:
those crimps technically are not listed for grounding purposes...:rolleyes:

That brings up another question. When I have to terminate a 10 stranded to a box or HWH I always use a #10 fork Sta-Con. Is this listed to clear a fault?
 

quogueelectric

Senior Member
Location
new york
green wirenuts

green wirenuts

In my area only ferrules aka crimp tubes or green wirenuts are approved for residential. They are not required for commercial. I buy them in bulk cheap.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
quogueelectric said:
In my area only ferrules aka crimp tubes or green wirenuts are approved for residential.


Is that a local code requirement or something that a particular inspector likes to enforce?
 

sparkydon

Member
iwire said:
Not people.....UL

Doh! Point taken.

When looking at the "bite spring"on a greenie (made that one up) they are identical to those of the reds..perhaps a different material in the plastic insulation?
 

quogueelectric

Senior Member
Location
new york
greenies or ferules

greenies or ferules

infinity said:
Is that a local code requirement or something that a particular inspector likes to enforce?
I dont know whose code it is I learned about it about 20 yrs ago and it is enforced by evryone. The ferrules you can crush with your dykes or linemans with crimp attatchment green wirenuts are expensive but required if you want to pass inspection
 
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