Would someone tell me the required section(s) for wiring a residential tub in the bathroom with the air jets incorporated in them? It is a listed one piece unit and will need a 120 volt circuit. There will not be any water heater incorporated into it as it will use the warm tap water. I am a little confused as to the bonding requirements and wiring method such as having to use conduit or not. The inspector hasn?t been very clear on this aspect. I do realize it will need the typical disconnect. Thank you
Residential tub wiring
- Thread starter clint2000
- Start date
- Status
pierre
Senior Member
- Location
- Westchester County, New York
Part VII of Article 680.
I think you actually mean tub, not tube.
I think you actually mean tub, not tube.
electricmanscott
Senior Member
- Location
- Boston, MA
Is this one of the new tubs that only have air jets and do not circulate water?
workingman
Member
dead front gfi on its own circuit with a 20 amp single recep. is what we do. we pull a multi wire circuit homerun to the bathroom usually into the switch box and black out (line) for the tub and from the tub would be your load.
oh yeah and we usuall bond the tub motor to the water pipes with #4 solid
oh yeah and we usuall bond the tub motor to the water pipes with #4 solid
tincan44
Member
- Location
- Indian River County, Fl.
All 125V single phase 30A or less require GFCI protection. GFCI breakers are worth the extra cost and so much easier to reset in the event of a trip than removing an access cover and pushing a reset button on the recpt. Also all metal piping and all metal parts in contact with circulating water shall be bonded together using a solid copper bonding jumper not smaller than #8. All equipment must be accessible. Art. 680. 71 thru 74. All the ones we see here are 20A or less and wired with 12-2 NM.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
So if the tub circulating piping is all plastic then no bonding is required.
tincan44
Member
- Location
- Indian River County, Fl.
What would you bond too? "The bonding required by 680.74 is intended to create a local equipotential plane and the equipment grounding conductor of the branch circuit supplying the hydromassage tub provides the path for ground fault current."
tincan44 said:
Unless my customers call me to reset the GFI - I don't care where it's located.
I wonder how many half-naked people will trudge all the way to the basement/garage to reset a breaker???
A dead front (at extra cost) or a floating GFI outlet (standard pricing) is what my customers usually choose. Very very few go for the extra(extra) cost of GFI CB and a towel
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
tincan44 said:
I've have some say that the copper water piping feeding the faucet requires bonding. I don't see how the faucet is in contact with the circulating water.
tincan44
Member
- Location
- Indian River County, Fl.
You are correct Celtic. Only if the motor contains a metal housing AND there is metal piping will a local equipotential plane need to be created. Art. 680.74
Also I was wondering about the location you place the Dead Front GFCI. The flexible cord on the motor is considered as the disconnecting means so a recpt will be needed. Here in Central Fl. many people spend big bucks for the tub and marble or ceramic to encase it. They just don't want an "unsightly" device showing. It seems like 50% of the folks here choose the GFCI breaker.
Also I was wondering about the location you place the Dead Front GFCI. The flexible cord on the motor is considered as the disconnecting means so a recpt will be needed. Here in Central Fl. many people spend big bucks for the tub and marble or ceramic to encase it. They just don't want an "unsightly" device showing. It seems like 50% of the folks here choose the GFCI breaker.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Rangers really stink don't they?
tincan44 said:
The tub gets plugged in like always - but to a duplex recpt.
The dead front can go just about anywhere - double gang the bath recep, put it in a multi-gang with the lighting/fan switches....someone wanted it "hidden" about 6" under where the towel bar goes - you had to exit the tub to reach it....another wanted it "buried" inside the medicine chest.
The "unsightly" issue is important.
In my own house, my bathroom has an "odd" layout....
The dead front is located to the left of the toilet (as your sitting) on the wall that protruds into the area - that wall also "hides" my DWV to the roof.
infinity said:Rangers really stink don't they?
It's not that the Rangers stink, if they were playing , say, anyone other than the Devils :twisted: I would root for them.....but, the Rangers seem to be lacking a certian something right about now - a win! LMAO
Woo Hoo
tincan44
Member
- Location
- Indian River County, Fl.
Hockey :?: Heck here in Fl even our water is on the 30 degree C chart.
:wink:
:wink:
e2me2
Member
- Location
- South Dakota
workingman said:
All that is required for the bonding is a # 8 to the water line cold side and this is only if the moter is not double insulated and has metal housing the dead head gfi is much preferred in my area as well both by me and convenience to customers no towel around the waist running out to panel
But then I've had mine for 11 yrs now and have yet to ever had to reset it so its your call but gfi 6.50 breaker 35$ your call
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Where does it say that the cold water line must be bonded to anything?
workingman
Member
e2me2 said:
#4 is what the AHJ calls for so thats what we use for the tub, hot or cold should not matter, we also have to bond the hot and cold togather for the water heater and run from the panel to the main water line coming in, it is usually plastic nowadays so we have to hit it were it becomes copper
- Location
- Massachusetts
workingman said:
It seems that either you are misunderstanding your AHJ or your AHJ is not following the NEC.
- Status