residential wiring

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bark

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I will be wiring my son's house in a little while and have heard that size 14 copper wire is no longer allowed in Washington State. I have been a wiremen for 40 years but have worked industrial and commercial all of that time. Retired now but want to help my son. Any help would be appreciated. Thinking most everything in the house has to be arc fault protected, even the kitchen, laundry and bath.
I'd like to wire the lighting in 14 for general lights and plugs, but the heavier used areas to be in #12. I'm in Washington State. Also, is it allowed for 2-200 amp main breakers on a 320 amp meter base?
Thanks
 
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As far two 200Amp main breaker it will depend on your load calculation.

As far as the 12 AWG conductor size, you only need 12 on the 20Amp circuit (kitchen, bathroom, laundry and other dedicated circuits as needed) Other receptacle that are for general use can be 14AWG and can be mingled with the lighting circuit.

As far as design preference (not necessarily code required) you can keep the lighting on 14AWG and receptacle circuits on 12AWG.

Unless Washington state has a different requirement. We have minds here that are from WA they will chime in.
 
14 AWG Romex/NM-B is perfectly acceptable in WA.

Regarding the 200 amp panels, that is fine also. Note class 320 sockets are rated 400 non continuous, 320 continuous. There is nothing that says a meter socket needs to be protected at its rating with an ocpd. The closest thing you will find is 110.3, and most people interpret that rating as being the load calc.
 
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1. Download the WA electrical rules here, if you don't have...working as an electrician you should have
http://www.lni.wa.gov/formpub/Detail.asp?DocID=2937
2. There is nothing in the electrical rules requiring 12 AWG for all branch circuits, perhaps the State of Seattle does, and I can't help you with that
I prefer 14 AWG for lighting as it makes the box fill easier for switching
3. A class 320 meter socket is commonly used with 2 200 amp panels. Make sure you get your POCO rules on dwelling unit services
 
Sorry some ckts require AFCI and GFCI, such as the kitchen dishwasher, many prefer to use dual function AFCI, but thats a personal choice
 
bark said:
Thinking most everything in the house has to be arc fault protected, even the kitchen, laundry and bath.
Click to expand...
Bathroom is not on the AFCI list, neither is the garage unfinished spaces, or outside outlets. An outdoor light with a switch in a location that is mentioned in AFCI list, or if the circuit has additional outlets in such locations will still need AFCI though.
 
residential wiring

Thanks guys, I've been retired for 5 plus years from the commercial/industrial areas of our trade. Stepping in to help my son is like taking on a new adventure. Yea I've done it but wholly smokes, it has changed. I'll see what happens and ask questions when needed.

Thanks
 
bark said:
Yea I've done it but wholly smokes, it has changed.
Click to expand...

It really is amazing, isn't it?

Since 2002 and the beginning of the enforcement of AFCI rules, we've seen tamper-resistant, weather-resistant devices added. Neutrals for "smart" switches, 55 lb. rated lighting outlet boxes, andmore, that I am sure I am blanking on at the moment. Just something as simple as most AFCIs having a ground fault sensing component (not Class A 5 milliamp, rather 50 - 70 milliamps) that make multiwire branch circuit homeruns obsolete (except when using GE AFCIs).

The changes today are as profound, overall, as moving into the post 1962 NEC (with all outlets getting equipment grounding conductors) and the beginning of GFCI installation historically was.
 
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