Exactly. The tubes I get have L at one end and N at the other, so I connect all of the reds and/or blues to the incoming black and all of the yellows to the incoming white.
OK great so that's what I've been doing but trying to keep my neutral white (lots of yellow and other colors) and many of the fixtures are paired so as to have two ballast in one fixture and one ballast in the second fixture with three tubes in each fixture. Those paired fixtures have two ungrounded conductors, one neutral and an egc in one end of the first fixture with all wiring from there being 18awg fixture wire. So to keep it tidy I had extended the neutral from where it enters the wireway of the first fixture to the other end of the same fixture with a piece of 12 AWG THHN. If there's something wrong with extending the neutral with 12 AWG THHN then I can probably scrape together enough short pieces of white 18 AWG and join them together. I'm going back tomorrow and I will confirm the fixture wire type which I think is rated at 60 degree as I think it is TF. Thanks
OK thanks, that's what I've been doing also and the harness (18 AWG) that connects the two troffers together has a black and white for the third ballast so I'm just connecting line to one end and neutral to the other, I'm trying to keep them switched the same as originally configured which is two outside tubes in the first fixture and the middle tube in the second fixture on one control and then visa verse for the second switch and remaining three tubes. If I could use a little THHN it would be neater and faster, I don't see the problem with that but I'm not sure. thanks
That's what I do.
It also means you don't have to figure out which wire of each socket's pair connects to the active pin.
Yes, exactly