Right type of bulbs to use in Juno Recessed Lights?

Status
Not open for further replies.
N

Ne_EC

Member
Just installed my first recessed lighting, and I'm not totally sure (should have talked to the lighting guys at the supplier - but didn't) what type of bulbs to use. I was checking circuits out, and simply put some regular soft white bulbs in them - but they don't seem to give off the light I expected. It seems like some of the light is going out in to the can - but they can are just a dull finish - so it's not reflecting it downward.

What type of bulbs are optimal?
 
Ne EC

DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF LIGHT. IF ITS A 6" CAN WITH A #24 TRIM THEN IT SHOULD BE 75R30 IF THE TRIM RING IS BIGGER (I THINK ITS 224 NOT SURE) THEN YOU CAN USE 150R40'S.
 
There should be a lable inside the can that tells you what kind of bulbs you have to use with the various trims.

steve
 
Check the IC and non-IC rating of the fixture and use a PAR lamp in that wattage. The PAR lamp has a built in reflector to send the light down and that is what you probably want.
 
CFL R40's..

CFL R40's..

I just put CFL R40's in open baffle Juno cans, which maintain the profile of an incandecent, with the squiggly thingy in there. Here in CA, Costco gives immediate rebates on them, so they end up costing about $1 a bulb. They use 23 watts, and the lumen output trumps a 75R30... they are so big, you don't see any guts of the can
 
sparkydon said:
I just put CFL R40's in open baffle Juno cans, which maintain the profile of an incandecent, with the squiggly thingy in there. Here in CA, Costco gives immediate rebates on them, so they end up costing about $1 a bulb. They use 23 watts, and the lumen output trumps a 75R30... they are so big, you don't see any guts of the can
Click to expand...


They're great until you want to use a dimmer. :roll: For maximum light output, I agree that a PAR style lamp will provide ample light. They also will provide a lot of heat. Whatever type lamp you use you'll need to make sure that it's compatible with the particular fixture and trim that you've installed.
 
hillbilly said:
There should be a lable inside the can that tells you what kind of bulbs you have to use with the various trims.

steve
Click to expand...

Good advice!


Also many times we see someone put in the screw type energy lamps, you can not claim, an energy rebate, or get energy credits, with the screw type lamps, only on fixtures designed to accept energy saving lamps.
 
If this is a high-end job, then I would advise getting a few designs of bulbs, since a par30, for example comes with about 4 different types of lens. Dotted, starburst, frosted, and frosted with dots ( I just had a GC reject 2 attempts at buying bulbs) (he did pay for my time FYI).

energy savers (flourescent) don't dim of course, so I don't see why anyone wants them in the house.
 
I read this post in the early AM refrained from posting because I did not want to come across as a snob, but I can?t help it, here it is.

There is a lot to know about ?Lamps? and if you are going to be an electrician (or contractor since this is the EC forum) then I humbly suggest you familiarize yourself with the ins and outs of lamps.

1-Somewhere on that can, there will be stamp or sticker telling the max size lamp you can put in it, for ?IC? and/or ?Non-IC? and the fixture had to have come with some documentation. Read that too, it will tell you what your options are.

2-Basically you can get most of your lamps from the big three lamp manufactures, Sylvania/Osram, GE or Phillips. Most supply houses, have a deal with only one line so identify which line you will most likely be using by which supply houses you mostly use. Then get a full lamp catalog from your supply house. I mostly use:

Sylvania- http://www.sylvania.com/content/display.scfx?id=003690207
GE- http://www.gelighting.com/na/busine...y/catalogs/downloads/2006_lampfullcatalog.pdf

3-Read the Sylvania catalog first, and figure out what all those confusing little anacronyms and numbers mean.

Here is a hint, for you to get started.
You are probably looking for:
Halogen, because it is very bright and has a good CRI
Medium base (E26) (or possibly Medium skirted)
PAR (parabolic reflector built into the lamp)

Now what physical size?
Notice those funny numbers after the ?PAR? like PAR38
That is the size of the lamp; it is 38/8th of an inch across, or 4.75 inches to you and me.

Now what wattage
I don?t know, so you need to do your own homework here, what did the label say?

You get the idea, the more you know the better you will be at your trade.

BTW this is about the 100th time I haven given this speech, but getting the catalogs and doing your homework really does pay off.

...and one more thing be careful of letting the supply house pick your lamps, they don't always know either.
 
Last edited:
lamps

lamps

excellent advice, ITO
I don't know how many jobs I inspect with improper lamps or trim (ie: open R30's in showers) because "that's what the guy at the big box store told me to use". Asked if they checked the label for proper trim and light size, I so often get the 'deer in the headlight look'.
 
I checked Juno, and the trim rings are the 205B-WH, and I've got the TC20 cans. They list the 75W PAR30 or the 65W BR30. What is the "BR" for. I found on the Sylvania site, in the link provided in one of the replies, and "PAR" is Pressed Aluminized Reflector".
 
Last edited:
? and I thought it meant parabolic reflector! That just goes to show you, that even after studying this stuff for many years you can still learn something new.

BR is the lamp shape, take a look at page 4 & 5 of the Sylvania catalog.

Take a look at page-6 it shows the 65W BR30 puts out 400 lumens.
Now take a look at page-19 it shows the 75W PAR30 puts out 1040 lumens.

All the information you need is in that catalog.
 
Yeah ITO, I was thinking that BR stood for something, and that's what I was trying to figure out. I did see them, and their shape before I put up the reply.
 
B is the type of glass, and R is for reflector but beyond that I don?t know either.

I am not really trying to be a snob, but lots of electricians...seasoned electricians don't know enough about lamps. Even our local supply houses don't know enough.

If you have any more questions please ask.

Good luck with your project.
 
infinity said:
Those look good but I doubt that they will have a similar CRI or produce the same light output as a halogen PAR lamp.
Click to expand...

They don't. Also dimming cfl's at this time dont work below 20% dim, they just go dark at that point. What they are good for is separating the customer from the bank account funds. I find that is my true interest in selling them to the rubes that feel they are helping mother earth live longer by going to dimming cfl's.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top