Rigid Metal bulkhead connector

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Trouyano

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Good morning,

I was at a site that used used a RMC threaded bulkhead connector without thread sealant. The conduit feeds a control panel with PLC inside. Water is migrating thru threads
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Is this connection rainproof?


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I agree.... is there anything in the code book referring to tread sealant?


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See section 300.6 A for thread compound commonly called Penetrox E, its a copper compound that is great for threads and lugs.
Messy as "it gets home before you do" but I carry a bottle in my tool bag
 
tom baker said:
See section 300.6 A for thread compound commonly called Penetrox E, its a copper compound that is great for threads and lugs.
Messy as "it gets home before you do" but I carry a bottle in my tool bag
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Do you use thread sealant for rigid threaded conduit?
Don’t that prevent conduit Continuity same like on water heater so we need to use bonding wire


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Seems to me a bead of silicone around the myers hub where it meets the enclosure and another bead around the conduit to myers hub connection would solve the leakage and not compromise ground integrity.
 
Malywr said:
Do you use thread sealant for rigid threaded conduit?
Don’t that prevent conduit Continuity same like on water heater so we need to use bonding wire


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No on thread compound. Never had an issue with water leakage in rainy Seattle area. Any plumbing thread compound would not be listed for electrical threads
 
tom baker said:
No on thread compound. Never had an issue with water leakage in rainy Seattle area. Any plumbing thread compound would not be listed for electrical threads
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Thank you
That what I taught.
Maybe on metal pipe some electrical compound to protect thread from corrosion that all


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Is it coming around the threads of the hub of from inside the hub?
The hub appears to not be flush/square to the enclosure.
 
That looks like a Myers hub, but it doesn’t appear to be fully seated on the enclosure.


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Thank you all for your Help... called manufacture, no pipe dope needed. the seal is made by tapper threads.... I‘m thinking threads have wrong pitch and pipe in bottoming out before taper in closing seal.
 
Trouyano said:
Thank you all for your Help... called manufacture, no pipe dope needed. the seal is made by tapper threads.... I‘m thinking threads have wrong pitch and pipe in bottoming out before taper in closing seal.
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Looking at your image 2 of the pipes are not set as deep as the others, pitch unlikely issue, more likely ran too many threads causing "bottoming" before tapering seals into Hub. But most likely (if factory treaded) is installer never tightened pipes into hubs.
Really you should tighten, but If you cannot get onto pipes to try to spin in deeper, other connections above not in photo prevent further tightening only option might be duct seal on the tops of hubs at pipe penetration. Not the best solution but should seal it in the short term.
Other more involved would be pull wires up pipes, cut, tighten into hub and put on WT ridged coupler
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oldsparky52 said:
Why would you prefer duct seal over silicone sealant?
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I know duct seal is listed for use on electrical installation, just not sure of any silicone based products, maybe someone else can comment on a listed silicone product.
One additional consideration on loose pipe connections, is if pipe is used as an effective ground path, the "tight" connection is part of making that secure, and may affect the effective clearing of a fault condition.
 
Fred B said:
I know duct seal is listed for use on electrical installation, just not sure of any silicone based products, maybe someone else can comment on a listed silicone product.
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If you wanted to paint a conduit, would the paint need to be listed on electrical installations? IDK, but I think no and that's what I think about silicone on the outside of a fitting to block out water.
One additional consideration on loose pipe connections, is if pipe is used as an effective ground path, the "tight" connection is part of making that secure, and may affect the effective clearing of a fault condition.
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I'm not sure I understand this, it sounds like you are saying this in response to using silicone outside the threaded joint. I doubt there will be a problem with this.

IIRC, the plugs in a WP box are supposed to have a sealant applied (after installation) to get the WP rating. To me it's same/same
 
oldsparky52 said:
If you wanted to paint a conduit, would the paint need to be listed on electrical installations? IDK, but I think no and that's what I think about silicone on the outside of a fitting to block out water.....
IIRC, the plugs in a WP box are supposed to have a sealant applied (after installation) to get the WP rating. To me it's same/same
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Thanks, didn't think of that factor, and some silicone is paintable.
oldsparky52 said:
....I'm not sure I understand this, it sounds like you are saying this in response to using silicone outside the threaded joint. I doubt there will be a problem with this.......
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Fred B said:
One additional consideration on loose pipe connections, is if pipe is used as an effective ground path, the "tight" connection is part of making that secure, and may affect the effective clearing of a fault condition.
Click to expand...
This comment was separately just referencing "if" pipes are loosely fitting the additional issues could present, and additionally seperate from issue of the "sealing" of pipe for water penetration.
 
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