Running one 20A circuit to detached garage (residential)

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AFJES

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I am working on a renovation for a customer of mine presently. He wants to be able to install a garage door opener in his detached garage in order to make the sale of the house more attractive to a buyer. My concern is; and I have looked in the NEC; is it code for me to run this one 20amp circuit from the house to the garage above a walkway with EMT.

A little more detail. The house sits right next to the detached garage. There is a walkway which is about 4 to 5 feet wide between the house and the garage. Surrounding the garage and going up to the house is cement so going underground from the basement of the house and up to the garage is not possible. The garage sits back a bit further on the property than the house and if you draw a line from the garage to the house it leads to a wall in the living room in the house about 6 feet up off the floor. What I want to do is run a 12 gauge romex up from the basement into the cavity of the living room wall then out a hole in the wall to the outside and mount a waterproof single gang box on the outside wall. From there run 3 12 gauge individual THWN conductors (one hot, one neutral and one ground) through EMT (Using compression fittings) into a hole in the side of the garage then into a junction box in the garage on the wall. From there run Romex to a receptacle by the garage door (inside the garage) put in a GFCI then from there run one light and then one receptacle up in the ceiling of the garage for the garage door opener. Simple, but this way he can list the garage as having power and a garage door opener.

I do know that if this EMT was going over a drive way that there would he a minimum height that this must be but this is simply a walkway. The EMT would be about 8 feet up off the cement walkway.

This is a very small town that uses an independent electrical inspection service. The owner of the property does not want to call the inspector to ask this specific question (long story). So the owner feels that if we do it to code it should be ok.

Does anyway see anything wrong with this setup. I have given it some thought and it seems fine to me. Since I am only running one 20amp circuit to the garage a sub panel in the garage would not be necessary in this case.

Any thoughts or obvious code violations that anyone can see?

Thanks
 
He may not need a disconnect if it is a "breezeway of sorts" or constructed attachment of the house and garage it would make the garage not detached from the dwelling.
 
No it is not considered a "breezeway" (good thought though, thanks). There is no attachment at all between the house and the garage, just an open walkway as described.

What would be a good disconnect device for a 120v circuit to place in the garage?
 
No it is not considered a "breezeway" (good thought though, thanks). There is no attachment at all between the house and the garage, just an open walkway as described.

What would be a good disconnect device for a 120v circuit to place in the garage?

A simple switch. Raise & label it so it is not confused with a light switch. We have used an A/C disconnect in some instances.
 
How do you plan to support thr EMT? If you put a 2x6 up between the house and the garage to support the EMT you can argue that it's an "attached" garage.;). Then you wouldn't need the disconnect means. Also, I wouldn't GFI protect the entire circuit. Put a jb inside the garage, run to a single receptacle for the opener then to your GFCI and light. Just my opinion.
 
How do you plan to support thr EMT? If you put a 2x6 up between the house and the garage to support the EMT you can argue that it's an "attached" garage.;). Then you wouldn't need the disconnect means. Also, I wouldn't GFI protect the entire circuit. Put a jb inside the garage, run to a single receptacle for the opener then to your GFCI and light. Just my opinion.

Now you would need to take out a construction permit for a modifying the structure of a building. It just gets worse.;)
 
You only have to span 4' to 5' right?

I would likely use IMC or RMC for that but if you are not used to working with that I would suggest a 3/4" EMT for some additional strength.

Remember, this detached garage can only be supplied by one branch circuit. If they need more circuits code required you install a feeder with a panel at the garage.
 
You only have to span 4' to 5' right?

I would likely use IMC or RMC for that but if you are not used to working with that I would suggest a 3/4" EMT for some additional strength.

Remember, this detached garage can only be supplied by one branch circuit. If they need more circuits code required you install a feeder with a panel at the garage.

I envision a chin up bar between house and garage. Maybe even a "skin the cat".
 
How do you plan to support thr EMT? If you put a 2x6 up between the house and the garage to support the EMT you can argue that it's an "attached" garage.;). Then you wouldn't need the disconnect means. Also, I wouldn't GFI protect the entire circuit. Put a jb inside the garage, run to a single receptacle for the opener then to your GFCI and light. Just my opinion.

Actually, he may be OK. 358.30 says 10' between supports or 3' from box/fitting to support. So if it's only 4-5' he wouldn't need to support over walkway. Not saying it's not a good idea.
I would probably use Rigid though for longevity and strength.
 
Now you would need to take out a construction permit for a modifying the structure of a building. It just gets worse.;)
Really ??? For one 2x6 for support ? I guess if one can argue that it could now be considered an attached garage one can also argue that you would need a building permit for a structural change if you install the board. The board would have to be pressure treated, be properly supported on both ends with braces and not toed in, etc.
 
Really ??? For one 2x6 for support ? I guess if one can argue that it could now be considered an attached garage one can also argue that you would need a building permit for a structural change if you install the board. The board would have to be pressure treated, be properly supported on both ends with braces and not toed in, etc.

Kidding aside I doubt any AHJ would change the building type on one ECs addition of a 2x6.
 
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