Scotchlok for 110VAC?

[RSquirrel]

Is there such a thing as an "in-line tap" (similar to a Scotchlok Run-and-Tap), except NEC-approved for 120VAC, 15A (using 12AWG THHN due to length of runs). My runs have no slack at an unused junction box (PVC conduit body) and I need to tap into the power feeds for a new receptacle. If so, please provide maker and p/n if possible. Thanks . . .

 

[ptonsparky]

Is there such a thing as an "in-line tap" (similar to a Scotchlok Run-and-Tap), except NEC-approved for 120VAC, 15A (using 12AWG THHN due to length of runs). My runs have no slack at an unused junction box (PVC conduit body) and I need to tap into the power feeds for a new receptacle. If so, please provide maker and p/n if possible. Thanks . . .

A typical conduit body is not a substitute for a j box and when they are allowed you still need to worry about cu in requirements for box fill. Five #12s will require 11.25 cu in. Does your conduit body have a marked capacity?

 

[dkidd]

Is there such a thing as an "in-line tap" (similar to a Scotchlok Run-and-Tap), except NEC-approved for 120VAC, 15A (using 12AWG THHN due to length of runs). My runs have no slack at an unused junction box (PVC conduit body) and I need to tap into the power feeds for a new receptacle. If so, please provide maker and p/n if possible. Thanks . . .

NEC does not approve. UL does. Use the Scotchlok.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/137034O/3m-scotchlok-self-stripping-elec-tap-connectors-567.pdf

 

[Smart $]

I believe this is the would be violation unless you splice on an additional length to each conductor... but your mention of a PVC conduit body has me wondering about fill, also... not to mention the professionalism.

300.14 Length of Free Conductors at Outlets, Junctions,
and Switch Points. At least 150 mm (6 in.) of free
conductor, measured from the point in the box where it
emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, shall be left at
each outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or the
connection of luminaires or devices. Where the opening to an
outlet, junction, or switch point is less than 200 mm (8 in.) in
any dimension, each conductor shall be long enough to extend
at least 75 mm (3 in.) outside the opening.

Exception: Conductors that are not spliced or terminated
at the outlet, junction, or switch point shall not be required
to comply with 300.14.

 

[dkidd]

I believe this is the would be violation unless you splice on an additional length to each conductor... but your mention of a PVC conduit body has me wondering about fill, also... not to mention the professionalism.

I'm not sure that applies to conduit bodies. See http://ecmweb.com/qampa/code-qa-splices-conduit-bodies http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=133369

 

[Smart $]

I'm not sure that applies to conduit bodies.

I do not see anything which says it does not apply...

 

[kwired]

Is there such a thing as an "in-line tap" (similar to a Scotchlok Run-and-Tap), except NEC-approved for 120VAC, 15A (using 12AWG THHN due to length of runs). My runs have no slack at an unused junction box (PVC conduit body) and I need to tap into the power feeds for a new receptacle. If so, please provide maker and p/n if possible. Thanks . . .

Look at the specs of your "Scotchlok's" I bet they are rated for 600 volts.

Box fill is another issue with your application though. Unless you have a T or other 3 port or more conduit body, why can't you make the "tap" someplace else, with a LB or C fitting you have to go to same place as one of the other ends anyway with your "tapped" conductors.

 

[K8MHZ]

Never mind. I had to read closer.

 

[K8MHZ]

I do not see anything which says it does not apply...

Neither do I.

 

[RSquirrel]

Conduit Body Capacity

Conduit Body Capacity

A typical conduit body is not a substitute for a j box and when they are allowed you still need to worry about cu in requirements for box fill. Five #12s will require 11.25 cu in. Does your conduit body have a marked capacity?

At the potential tap point, the installers were thinking ahead and used a Carlon Type T (in, out, side ports) conduit body with 63 cu. in. capacity.

 

[RSquirrel]

NEC does not approve. UL does. Use the Scotchlok.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/137034O/3m-scotchlok-self-stripping-elec-tap-connectors-567.pdf

Thanks, this should work. The runs are 12-ga, but we can make the taps 14-ga (15-amp single receptacle circuit).

 

[K8MHZ]

Thanks, this should work. The runs are 12-ga, but we can make the taps 14-ga (15-amp single receptacle circuit).

Just to let you know, I worked maintenance for years, and based upon my experience with Scotchloks, I never use them, won't ever use them and don't recommend them.

YMMV.

People have fits about back stabbed receptacles, but insulation cutting (and sometimes strand cutting) connectors are OK?

 

[RSquirrel]

Thanks, this should work. The runs are 12-ga, but we can make the taps 14-ga (15-amp single receptacle circuit).

Forgot to say, Thanks much to all that provided input. BTW, the T-conduit body is a 2-inch (with 1" reducing bushings) in case the 63 cu. in. capacity seems too high.

 

[ptonsparky]

I'm inclined to agree with K8. You should have enough room to use 'real' wire connectors and add some length to the original conductors.

Downside, you add more connections to fail. Dang.

 

[kwired]

Just to let you know, I worked maintenance for years, and based upon my experience with Scotchloks, I never use them, won't ever use them and don't recommend them.

YMMV.

People have fits about back stabbed receptacles, but insulation cutting (and sometimes strand cutting) connectors are OK?

Used to use them a lot to tap fluorescent luminaires to the branch circuit conductors pulled through a continuous run of luminaires. Can't ever recall a service call because of failure of one of those connectors.

 

[K8MHZ]

Used to use them a lot to tap fluorescent luminaires to the branch circuit conductors pulled through a continuous run of luminaires. Can't ever recall a service call because of failure of one of those connectors.

I worked for years as a 'fixing' electrician before I ever started being a 'building and installing' electrician.

Like I said, YMMV, but I won't use them based upon my personal experience, which obviously, different than yours.