Second guessing your creative ways to solve your problem while adhering to code

[jaylectricity]

Sometimes you are asked to fix a small problem in the simplest way possible.

Problem: Metal single gang, old work switch box hanging free through a hole in the sheetrock that is slightly too large for the ears at the top of the box to grab onto. Box is in a closet, out of sight and rarely used.

Creative solution: Cut down a holding strap (Madison bar, etc) longer than the horizontal measure of the switch box ears. Use that to straddle the surface of the sheetrock on each side of the box behind the ears of the box.

Is there anything wrong with this installation? (quick and dirty Paint drawing)

Also, please share some creative solutions to problems you've had.

 

[LarryFine]

Is there anything wrong with this installation?

Not if it works. Plastic OWBs are usually larger than metal ones, and works as well. Your way is faster.

Also, please share some creative solutions to problems you've had.

Too many to think of, and too close to bedtime to try right now.

 

[jaylectricity]

Also please share some creative solutions to problems you've had.

Too many to think of, and too close to bedtime to try right now.

I know it's late...just wanted to submit this thread before I forgot about it and went to bed.

I'm hoping that some of you have a lot of stories about quick-fixes you've done.

In the spirit of this forum, everyone should probably keep them code compliant, but it would be cool if some people shared some mistakes that they have made that weren't code compliant. Just for learning purposes...ya know?

 

[hardworkingstiff]

From what I've read here, the newest idea is to use "great stuff" to lock in the box.

 

[quogueelectric]

If it is against a stud use smart or arlington a1 box.

 

[macmikeman]

From what I've read here, the newest idea is to use "great stuff" to lock in the box.

Geez, I suggested members try that several years ago and got beat over the head for it......


Another fix is to get out your ever present (I like to mistakenly call them "chop saws") miter saw and cut a section of 2x4 to fit the space from the back of the box to the drywall on the other side of the wall. Attach to the back of the "gem" box with a couple of drywall screws and slide the whole caboose into the wall. Drill another drywall screw into the other side thru the drywall and into the wood. Patch tiny screw hole with dap or mud.

 

[GUNNING]

I carry a small container of drywall joint compound on the truck to patch up nicks and holes. It cleans up a lot of booboo's. Can even patch white base board. It drys unlike some types of Spackle I have used. Great for filling in the top of panels where the drywall is cut out to fish in the wires or blown out areas of drywall around an outlet box.

 

[A1cbr]

I had a similiar problem. I used wood and then liquid nail the wood to the sheetrock.
It work out well, I have also seen someone make a single gang into double gang.

 

[dejeud]

Cutin boxes

Cutin boxes

I've used that method several times as a matter of fact. I always wondered why the heck can't manufacturers make the ears just a little bigger.

One of the creative ideas I had that I remember vividly is we had a situation where we had more than the allowed amount of wires in a gutter. Not by many, but enough to warrant a derating. After a few hours trying to find exceptions in the code I finally decided to run a conduit from one end of the gutter to the other then splice and run 5-6 of the wires that were going from one end to another thru the conduit. No big deal really, but it did give me a little headache trying to figure out how to pass the inspection.

 

[ceb58]

One thing I keep with me is paint stirrer sticks for the 5 gal. paint buckets. I pick them up a big blue for free. They are thicker than the regular paint sticks. If I cut out rock and need to replace it I cut the strip about 4" longer than the hole. I put it behind the rock leaving about half of it showing and use drywall screws to hold it in then I insert the rock I cut out and screw it down.

 

[electricmanscott]

Sometimes you are asked to fix a small problem in the simplest way possible.

Problem: Metal single gang, old work switch box hanging free through a hole in the sheetrock that is slightly too large for the ears at the top of the box to grab onto. Box is in a closet, out of sight and rarely used.

Creative solution: Cut down a holding strap (Madison bar, etc) longer than the horizontal measure of the switch box ears. Use that to straddle the surface of the sheetrock on each side of the box behind the ears of the box.

Is there anything wrong with this installation? (quick and dirty Paint drawing)

Also, please share some creative solutions to problems you've had.

Fail! Not listed for that use.

 

[electricmanscott]

From what I've read here, the newest idea is to use "great stuff" to lock in the box.

Fail! Not listed for that use.

 

[jaylectricity]

Fail! Not listed for that use.

But Mr. Inspector, surely your X-ray vision isn't good enough to see through the switch plate!

 

[hardworkingstiff]

Fail! Not listed for that use.

Good thing for me I don't due resi work.

 

[220/221]

I wouldn't repair a recep box like that. There is quite a bit of force used to plug a good cord cap into a new recep and it will eventually loosen up/fall apart. I don't even like using any kind of old work box on receps. I want the box to be screwed solid on something. It generally only takes a few minutes to do a 100% repair by changing the box or slipping in some backing.

 

[jaylectricity]

I wouldn't repair a recep box like that. There is quite a bit of force used to plug a good cord cap into a new recep and it will eventually loosen up/fall apart. I don't even like using any kind of old work box on receps. I want the box to be screwed solid on something. It generally only takes a few minutes to do a 100% repair by changing the box or slipping in some backing.

Oh, I totally agree. In this situation it was a switch for an outside post light. Not a lot of wear and tear expected.

 

[Kdog76]

I agree with most of what's been said here. A box for a switch does not need to be held in place as securely as for an outlet. Arlington or Allied's slider boxes work great but only if there is a stud next to it, AND if the wall is deep enough. Also agree why can't they make the ears a little bigger (goes for both plastic & metal old work boxes), and the screws for a plastic rework box aren't always long enough for plaster/lathe walls (esp. if it's sheetrock over plaster & lathe).
The job I'm on now I had to get every single size of single gang metal boxes with the ears (1 1/2", 2", & 2 1/4" deep) as well as various depth plastic reworkers AND slider boxes...And even then I still have issues with capacity for the wires I would like to have in them / getting the boxes to fit in shallow walls...
Back to OP, I have done it with great stuff, sliding in framing next to it / behind the box, cut the madison strap to get the ears to fit, and I seem to always "just get it to fit". Never really happy with the way that turns out...Gotta be a better way, just haven't found it yet...:-?

 

[Pierre C Belarge]

I agree with most of what's been said here. A box for a switch does not need to be held in place as securely as for an outlet. Back to OP, I have done it with great stuff, sliding in framing next to it / behind the box, cut the madison strap to get the ears to fit, and I seem to always "just get it to fit". Never really happy with the way that turns out...Gotta be a better way, just haven't found it yet...:-?

I disagree with the statement that a switch does not need to be held in place as securely as for an outlet.

The OP stated it is located in a closet. Who is to say that a box or other item is to be stored there and someone bangs it against the switch...
or some other means of damage can occur.

I think that in our industry, creativity is important. I also think that all creative ideas are not suitable. The individual and when inspected, the AHJ will have to make some hard decisions at times.


When I was installing, I have come across this situation several times in the past. I would sometimes use wood as others here have posted, or sometimes cut the wall and had someone repair the hole. It all depended on the surface finish, such as wall paper, old plaster cracking like mad, good sheetrock, etc...

 

[benaround]

Back in the day, if the hole was not to big, I would pull the top and bottom 'ears' a bit

more apart and then square them up to the box and continue as normal.

 

[jaylectricity]

The OP stated it is located in a closet. Who is to say that a box or other item is to be stored there and someone bangs it against the switch...
or some other means of damage can occur.

Oh please. The switch is on the wall if you open the closet door and look to the left, it is up at about 6 feet, about 6 inches from the front wall. There would have to be some pretty strange configuration to stack anything in that corner and get past the clothes rod. I should take a picture of it next time I'm there.