Securing fixtures in masonry?

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lordofpi

lordofpi

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My topic about installing a flood luminaire on a mast got me to thinking: heretofore, I have always (on anything with weight) secured things into masonry with all-thread and nuts and washers on each side of the wall. It is the way I was always taught, and it seems to be the most secure. Do most of you follow suit with this theory, or are some of the expanding masonry anchors just as acceptable? I know they even have the ones with the epoxy, but that seems to be even more effort than my method. Thoughts?
 
Yeah, that makes sense. I know the ones with the 3/8 hex head are generally pretty good, but as I said, I was always taught to all-thread all things larger than a standard junction box or strap, so I wasn't sure if it was safe to crossover. I'll give it a try. Meter pans and such will still be all-threaded, though.

Anyone have any experience with the epoxy anchors, though? There's a two-stage one Hilti makes I've always thought about, but never shelled the money out for.

http://www.hilti.com/holcom/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-22946
 
Tapcons are the way to go! The epoxy anchors are a waist of time and if you don't clean all the masonry dust away they won't set properly. At least the crappy ones I tried didn't!
 
Wedge anchors are my favorite. Most times all-thread is reserved for over 75 lbs. Epoxy anchors are required on some government jobs and work well if instructions are explicitly followed. Tapcons will work out with vibration, use only for emt and boxes usually. Sleeve anchors work sometimes, sometimes not.
 
Yeah, I must say, Tapcons are the most useless kind of hollow-anchor I've ever used. They always work out on me at some point, especially with any bit of jostling. Many times, you can't even drive them home all the way without them spinning and losing hold. I stopped using them a while ago after revisiting some of the jobs I had used them on. The hammer-in sleeve anchors aren't bad though, but I was interested in the higher-end of reliability.
 
For heavy loads, lag-shields and bolts. This method is what is used to attach the ledger board for decks, so it must be plenty strong.

Mark
 
I like the lead hollow wall bang-in type (they have a special set tool). I think these anchors are sometimes called "Corkers".
 
lordofpi said:
How about one of the powder actuated ones?
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I've had good and bad luck with powder. Depends on the masonry.

Meter pans and such will still be all-threaded, though.
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I would reconsider on that. There are less expensive and faster ways that will hold more than what would be required for meter bases. In some cases on you can't use all thread if the interior wall is finished. The wedge type anchors will hold great if installed properly. I will get bashed for this but I use tapcons for most anything including meter bases. I have never had one that I was concerned about working loose or pulling off the wall.
 
lordofpi said:
How about one of the powder actuated ones?

http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-16954
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I have 2 -36ms and the gx100 gas operated they are not a good choice for fastening fixtures to masonary. They would shatter the cast fixture shell on impact.
The hilti stuff is great for putting 3/4 plywood for a backer board for a panel in a basement to the concrete wall. You can fasten it in just a minute or two. Nailing 2x4 sleepers to concrete.
The gx100 is ok for mounting pipe straps and boxes to block wall but does not give a finished look. only behind sheetrock in my opinion. The pins and gas is very expensive also.
 
Sharpie said:
I like the lead hollow wall bang-in type (they have a special set tool). I think these anchors are sometimes called "Corkers".
Click to expand...
They are great in block and good in concrete They are called "Caulk-ins" They cannot be used in ceilings as they melt out in fires they are made out of lead and melt at about 6-7 hundred degrees.
 
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