Service Panel Color Code/Phase

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B-Learner

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I am processing to Upgrading a Service Panel (Indoor) for a guy next week.....Main Circuit is still the same 90 Amp......but, he wants me to adding some more breakers (7 more) in this case I have to get a bigger panel.....

My question is do I have to correct all wiring in CORRECT PHASE COLOR and in Raceway too ????? (All wiring must be in EMT).....I am too confusing now...cuz, some one told me that:

1-All Wiring must be in Phase Color such as: (If we are standing in front of the Panel, there are 2 Bus Bar each carrying 120 V.....Right Bus Bar is Red and Left Bus Bar is Black) and the Right Bar is Red so All Wiring at that side must be RED, WHITE & GREEN for all 120V - 15A or 20A using......and the one at the Left Bus Bar is Black so All Wiring at that side must be BLACK, WHITE & GREEN for all 120V - 15A or 20A using (Left Bar is Odd Circuit number such as Breaker#1, 3, 5, 7....... and Right Bar is Even Circuit number such as Breaker#2, 4, 6, 8.........)

2-But, others said Phase Color must be like this:

a-Left Bus Bar is Odd Circuit and carrying Breaker#1: Black, White & Green , Breaker#3: Red, White & Black, Breaker#5: Black, White & Green ....and keep going, Except for any Breaker Carrying 240V can be either BLACK, RED, WHITE & GREEN or BLACK, BLACK, WHITE & GREEN.

b-Right Bus Bar is Even Circuit and carrying Breaker#2: Black, White & Green, Breaker#4: Red, White & Green......


I am really confusing now......PLEASE, GIVE ME SOME ADVICES........

THANKS YOU VERY MUCH

This work is in San Francisco, California....and all work is permitted and inspection by City Inspector
 
Hey B-learner,


breakers:

1,2 blk
3,4 red
5,6 blk
7,8 red
9,10 blk
11,12 red
13,14 blk
15,16 red
17,18 blk
19,20 red....and so on. look at busbars before installing breakers and you will understand.
 
You should also be doing a new load calculation as this sounds like a rather small service.Mark all the old wires along with position number.Phase should not get changed as they might be sharing a neutral .Good luck.
 
I know of no requirement in the NEC for color coding branch circuits.
I haven't gotten a copy of the 2008 yet, but I doubt it would be a change in there requiring it either.
 
B, I use Chicago code which spells out the use of Black Red and Blue for 150 volts or less and Brown Orange and Yellow for over 150 volts.
If your local code has it's own version, you might find it in the beginning of Article 210 where the branch circuit information is.
 
B-Learner said:
I am processing to Upgrading a Service Panel (Indoor) for a guy next week.....Main Circuit is still the same 90 Amp......but, he wants me to adding some more breakers (7 more) in this case I have to get a bigger panel.....
#THANKS YOU VERY MUCH

This work is in San Francisco, California....and all work is permitted and inspection by City Inspector
Click to expand...

If your addding 7 circuits and a bigger panel, you had better do a load calc. sounds like your 90a service ain't gonna work anymore.
 
Our local amendments require on 120/208 circuits that Phase A = black, Phase B= red, Phase C= Blue, Neutral = Whit, on 277/480 colors BOY and Grey for the Neutral.
 
SF (My/our fair city) local amendments:
ARTICLE 210 — BRANCH CIRCUITS

[Amended 2-14-2006 by Ord. No. 32-06]
210.5(C). Add the following new section:
(C) Ungrounded Conductors. Underground conductor insulation shall be color coded as follows:
See Section 200.7 for limitations on re- identification of white or gray conductors.
(1) 120/240 volt 3-wire circuits - “A” phase black, “B” phase red; 120/208 volt 4-wire 3-phase wye circuits - “A” phase black, “B” phase red, “C” phase blue; 120/240 volt 3-phase delta circuits - “A” phase black, “B” (high leg) phase purple, “C” phase red; 277/480 volt 4-wire 3-phase wye circuits - “A” phase brown, “B” phase orange, “C” phase yellow; ungrounded conductors for other voltages shall be identified by different color coding, marking tape, tagging, or other approved means.
(2) Conductors for switch legs may be ofa different color than the ungrounded circuit conductor when suitably identified at pull, junction and outlet boxes with marking tape, tagging or other equally effective means. The color green, white or grey shall not be used for identification.
(3) Conductor insulation shall contain the applicable color pigment for circuit wire #14 AWG through #10 AWG. Ungrounded conductors #8 AWG and larger and ungrounded conductors of any size in cable assemblies may be suitably identified at pull, junction and outlet boxes with marking tape, tagging or other equally effective means.
Exception: Extensions of existing non-color- coded wiring systems need not be color coded.
Click to expand...


The above is the same for feeder and service conductors as well.

Otherwise the NEC does not have any colors except green, and white/grey for grounds and grounded (neutral) respectively. Standard practice however is BRB (Baseball colors) or BOY for 277/480. Oh, and light blue in certain specific situations...

Other factors from your post :

  1. Yes a load calc is a wise idea... As current standard min. service size for any building or structure is 100A with exception for a bill-board service. You say this a 90A main - I assume it is quite old, and possibly that the building is serving different purposes +/or loads than when it was originally installed? There is no other way to even begin sizing a service without a calc' - the inspector may ask to see it - just to see if you did one.
  2. AIC letter from PG&E if 200A+.
  3. Service Planning Application with PG&E for "Permanent connection"
  4. All Service conductors (Prior to the MOCP regardless of meter placement) MUST be RMC. Cables and EMT are only allowed after both the Main and meters.
  5. If underground only the underground portion may be PVC in specified radius, you must follow PG&E's joint trench rules for location and sizing. As well as Termination enclosure.
  6. Exposed GEC's are not allowed outside unless in conduit bonded on both sides. Inside they may be exposed if #4 solid. UFER is required on any foundation work over 20' in length.
  7. Gas must be bonded at the second fitting past each gas meter. This can not be in between electrodes and be a min #6. Hot water at each water heater with min. #6.
  8. State law requires smoke detectors be installed in any dwelling if there are none already for any job over $1000.
Anyway, if working in any locality it is wise to get the local amendments and print them to stick in your code book.
SF CODE

SF may also not give you a permit without a C-10 license.... I have watched GC's and Homeowners get quizzed at the counter, (Really funny to watch :D )and refused permits that involve service up-grades. Which they are well within their rights to do.... I think they are saving these people from eminant doom in the case of service conductors - and are fearlessly strict in enforcement for all non-C-10's performing electrical work of any kind. I hope one day to join the ranks there....
 
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Thanks for all the inputs guys......

e57

Thanks for your specifics informations in SF...... Understanding, that SF requiring C10 Not B (General Contractor) to do some kind a work like that. And, yes the building is Multifamily Unit and this one is upstair unit and one other thing is I am taking an C10 Exam now, but failed 4 times (what's ashame)......
 
It's so weird to see you guys mentioning black red blue and brown orange yellow. In Canada, whether it be 120 or 10,000 volts, all three-phase systems are labeled (Phase A) Red, (Phase B) Black, (Phase C) Blue. Go Canada. haha
 
B-Learner said:
Thanks for all the inputs guys......

e57

Thanks for your specifics informations in SF...... Understanding, that SF requiring C10 Not B (General Contractor) to do some kind a work like that. And, yes the building is Multifamily Unit and this one is upstair unit and one other thing is I am taking an C10 Exam now, but failed 4 times (what's ashame)......
Click to expand...

Sorry to discourage you - but there are reasons for that.
 
B-Learner said:
I am processing to Upgrading a Service Panel (Indoor) for a guy next week.....Main Circuit is still the same 90 Amp......but, he wants me to adding some more breakers (7 more) in this case I have to get a bigger panel.....

My question is do I have to correct all wiring in CORRECT PHASE COLOR and in Raceway too ????? (All wiring must be in EMT).....I am too confusing now...cuz, some one told me that:

1-All Wiring must be in Phase Color such as: (If we are standing in front of the Panel, there are 2 Bus Bar each carrying 120 V.....Right Bus Bar is Red and Left Bus Bar is Black) and the Right Bar is Red so All Wiring at that side must be RED, WHITE & GREEN for all 120V - 15A or 20A using......and the one at the Left Bus Bar is Black so All Wiring at that side must be BLACK, WHITE & GREEN for all 120V - 15A or 20A using (Left Bar is Odd Circuit number such as Breaker#1, 3, 5, 7....... and Right Bar is Even Circuit number such as Breaker#2, 4, 6, 8.........)

2-But, others said Phase Color must be like this:

a-Left Bus Bar is Odd Circuit and carrying Breaker#1: Black, White & Green , Breaker#3: Red, White & Black, Breaker#5: Black, White & Green ....and keep going, Except for any Breaker Carrying 240V can be either BLACK, RED, WHITE & GREEN or BLACK, BLACK, WHITE & GREEN.

b-Right Bus Bar is Even Circuit and carrying Breaker#2: Black, White & Green, Breaker#4: Red, White & Green......


I am really confusing now......PLEASE, GIVE ME SOME ADVICES........

THANKS YOU VERY MUCH

This work is in San Francisco, California....and all work is permitted and inspection by City Inspector
Click to expand...

I would be very careful to number each conductor before I removed it from the breaker during a change out. If you havent been there on site since day one, you have no way of knowing if some of these circuits are really 220volt on single pole breakers, or if someone tied together or backfed a circuit. It would be a seperate job to identify each circuit. I would not consider moving
any of the circuits to another "leg" just to match it up with a color code.
You might consider using one 3/4" wide wrap of black or red tape at each cooresponding termination for future reference. Your inspector then might see that you at least connsidered the situation before you tore it apart.
 
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