sewer grind pump

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jap

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Electrician
I am installing a 120v circuit to an outside sewer grind pump.The float and the
pump have a factory installed 4' cord with a 15a male cord cap.The pump cord plugs into the back of the float male end and the float is made to plug into a receptacle. This is a residential installation and the pump is about 15' from the outside of the garage wall.My question is can i cut the cord ends off of the cords and wire this direct with a disconnect located on the outside of the garage wall and do away with the gfi ?or do i have to install a gfi receptacle and inuse cover?
The pump is below ground level.
Please advise of code article that applies.
Thanks.
 
How does the cord get from the tank to the receptacle? Is it buried or exposed? What type cord?
400.7(B) dictates a receptacle and plug for flexible cords.
Do you have the installation specs. from the manufacturer?
Are you saying that you have a in-ground tank with grinder pump, and from this tank you have a 15' long flexible (factory) cord with a male plug (120V)?
steve
 
dcspector said:
Check with the Manufacturer and then see NEC 110.3(B) I would stick with the later 406.8...Also, 400.7(B)


I agree -- some of the pumps have a cord with a breather tube built into it and cannot be cut. I have seen it on septic pumps but haven't noticed it on grinders. That GFI will cause problems down the line-- I wish they would make an exception on that. We had so much trouble that the HO finally changed the plug himself (I refused).
 
If you change the plug for the switch or the pump, you are going to make it diffucult and expensive for the customer to maintain.

The float switches are designed with special piggyback plug connections that apply power to the pump when the switch is closed.

When either the pump or the switch must be replaced, the customer can just plug in a new one and it all works. If you wire it up with the switch in series with the pump, then the customer will have to figure out the circuit or call you back when the pump or switch must be replaced.

I think you are doing a disservice to the customer by defeating a simple, standard system for connecting pumps and float switches.
 
Try one of these...
65__jb120.jpg


http://www.libertypumps.com/product_display.asp?ID=65&MainCat=8&SubCat=19
 
Pretty slick but still needs GFCI protection, no exceptions exist for outdoor receptacles, and in 2008 there will be no exception for basement and garages either.
 
The ones that I have seen also have an alarm float as well. DO NOT wire the alarm to the same circuit as the pump! If the pump circuit trips, you will also lose the alarm, and, well.... (A coworker did this once, the HO was NOT HAPPY!)
 
JohnJ0906 said:
The ones that I have seen also have an alarm float as well. DO NOT wire the alarm to the same circuit as the pump! If the pump circuit trips, you will also lose the alarm, and, well.... (A coworker did this once, the HO was NOT HAPPY!)



35_alm2cable.jpg


This alarm is battery backup, so same circuit is not an issue... I love these by the way...:grin:
 
iwire said:
Pretty slick but still needs GFCI protection, no exceptions exist for outdoor receptacles, and in 2008 there will be no exception for basement and garages either.


The only exception is outdoor de-icing equipment... go figure...
 
So i take it as I thought it to be originally. I must install a gfi receptacle for the grinder pump to plug into. The pump is in a trashcan size tank that is 15' from the new garage.The cord is only 4' long on the pump/float cords.
such a simple installation can become so rediculous.
If you stay with the cord and plug,it must be plugged into a gfi w/inuse cover for the simple fact that if the pump is unplugged it could be used for a different purpose other than the pump,then you have the constant concern of nieusance tripping and the combo male caps will barely fit under a deep inuse cover.
Evidently No exceptions are listed for a single receptacle for this installation since it is outside and not in a dedicated space.
Cut the cord off and hardwire it you still must have a disconnect and 9 times out of 10 it will void the manufacturers warranty.
I feel there should be an exception for this.
I've wired Feed mills from top to bottom with all kinds of controls and feeders and did'nt have to think this much about it.
 
Sorry, I'm still trying to learn how to use this new site.
Cut the cord a disconnect would still have to be installed and 9 times out of 10 would void the manufacturers warranty.
Install it as it should be and Install a gfi and inuse cover and suffer the constant concern of nieusance tripping.
A single receptacle does not apply here since it is outdoor and could be used for other purposes if the pump was temporarily unplugged and is not a dedicated space like in a garage.
i feel the pumps for this type of installation should be 240v only or have 30a male caps on them so a standard gfi receptacle would not have to be used.
This rates right up there with a 120v cord and plug pool pump.
 
stickboy1375 said:
The only exception is outdoor de-icing equipment... go figure...

There is a reason for that, de-icing equipment is the one type of utilization equipment found around homes that can by design have enough leakage current to make GFCI protection non-functional.

All the other loads, pumps, freezers, refrigerators etc can run fine on GFCIs if they are in good working condition.

If these items are tripping GFCIs they have internal problems that should be addressed.

There are also freezer and pump alarms that can be installed to let people know that a failure has occurred.
 
jap said:
Sorry, I'm still trying to learn how to use this new site.
Cut the cord a disconnect would still have to be installed and 9 times out of 10 would void the manufacturers warranty.
Install it as it should be and Install a gfi and inuse cover and suffer the constant concern of nieusance tripping.
A single receptacle does not apply here since it is outdoor and could be used for other purposes if the pump was temporarily unplugged and is not a dedicated space like in a garage.
i feel the pumps for this type of installation should be 240v only or have 30a male caps on them so a standard gfi receptacle would not have to be used.
This rates right up there with a 120v cord and plug pool pump.


Use a gfi breaker if you must, I have never had one trip, also they install alarm floats for a reason... :grin:
 
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