Short in new Conv. Oven

Status
Not open for further replies.

sparkydon

Member
Convection Oven/Micro combo unit. KitchenAid..

Ran a 6/3 cu into a cabinet above the unit. Ran the 1/2" FMC whip up into a 4sq and terminated using split bolts/tape.

Turned on the breaker, to an awful buzz and an immedite trip of the breaker. Checked my connections both in the panel and in the 4sq. All good. Disconnected the splice and panel terminations, checked resistance between all conductors in Romex run - A OK.

Checked resistance between all conductors on appliance whip: Zero resistance between L2 and neutral. This must be the problem, no?

An aplliance "tech" I know told me a switch or resistor? in the oven would give a reading like that between those conductors...Am I missing something obvious here?
 
Zero ohms is a hard short. You'd expect a few ohms, at least, even if the element is in the circuit at the time of the test. It seems clear to me that the appliance has an issue. Happens sometimes in shipping.
 
You can open up the oven's wiring compartment, open the connections there, and test again, or just tell the customer to check the warranty.
 
Thanks..What I left out of the post, admittingly, is the arguement i had with the repairman KitchenAid sent ot the job (which is 30 mi. remote of anything) when he arrived, I was nowhere to found, the oven was disconnected, capped off and uninstalled.

I get a call, its a KithenAid rep. He claimed to need power restored to troubleshoot the appliance properly. I told him there was no way i could get up there. I told him to use his meter and figure out the dead short, and I'll worry about restoring the power. He apparently had a very bad day after that, cussing me out to my fellow employees.

I was never notified that a service tech was to be at any job or that I should reconnect the oven, so I wont cry about it.
 
LarryFine said:
You can open up the oven's wiring compartment, open the connections there, and test again, or just tell the customer to check the warranty.

I did test the load side of the whip inside the unit, after disconncting the internal terminations, and it was clear. The fault was somewhere in the jungle of jumble if ya know what I mean..
 
Service Tech's

Service Tech's

He couldn't find the right replacement for a safety latch that arced closed. He pryed open the non-servicable switch, dremeled out the arc, glued it back together, and told the customer they were good to go. "Oh, and you should leave the breaker off when not in use". Real assuring Mr. Certified Tech Man:mad:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would never ever open an appliance. Especially a new one. I leave that to the guys that are trained to do that kind of thing of which I am not one. With all the kitchens that I do there have been numerous times that this situation has come up.

I leave the appliance connected and the breaker turned off.
 
I can only imagine this guy's misery if he showed up to that job with the appliance set and connected...Undoing the tape, then the rubber tape, than removing the split bolts, the flex connector, the four face screws, than hoisting it down from its cabinet...

Opening up the primary connections in the oven is no different to me than wiring in a pigtail on a dryer...Now if there was a Warranty void sticker I had to break through...That's another story..

Scott...Are your appliance whips always long enough to allow the units to be serviced? In this case removing the oven would yank the FMC whip and undoubtedly damage the conductors.. Leaving it disconnected and on the floor was my only option, IMO. I didn't want the guy snippin my wires short and screwing me to make his job easier...Although in his rants he did tell a co-worker that he had to leave it how he found it, so maybe connected with breaker off is the way to go. Would You leave an appliance with a dead short hooked up to its breaker?? I think I did the right thing here..
 
Last edited:
A I said I would have left it connected, and I have.

I always mount the Jbox for an oven in the cabinet above or below the appliance. This way the cabinet guy (who charges to place the appliances) can slip it in and stick the whip into the cabinet. I show up and make connections.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top