K8MHZ
Senior Member
- Occupation
- Electrician
My sister showed me a light switch in her garage that she had to wiggle the handle a little to make the lights stay on. It was a 3 way with it's mate in the house. Obviously a burnt contact in the switch.
Simple swap, right?
Wrong.
I pulled out the old switch and all the terminals were the same color. I couldn't ring it out because it showed open all around when the switch was in one position due to the burnt contact.
OK, no problem, I will just figure out which wire has a load on it. I found it and connected that to the common. Turned power back on and to make sure of things, yes, new switch works great. Then I went in and turned the switch in the house off. Switch in garage wouldn't turn lights on. Double checked, switch in house is a 3 way. So I look to see how the garage switch is wired. Now, in addition to this switch, there was also unswitched loads. I could hear the refrigerator running and it stayed on when the lights were off. The overhead only had three wires, not enough for a switched three way along with an unswitched circuit. The messenger wire was not part of the circuit and wasn't grounded. To make things more fun, the wires on the outside of the garage were spliced to a white, a black and a blue. Inside, I had no white. I had red, black and blue. After some serious head scratching I figured out the 'white' wire was actually the red wire bleached white by the sun.
So I decide to check to see which terminals are hot with my trusty Greenlee tick tracer, which works VERY well. When the lights were on, there was no indication of power at all from my tracer. Also no 'real' voltage at all from white wires in box to any terminal when the lights were on using my DVOM.
Now am I really cornfused. So I start hand tracing cables and lo and behold, right next to me I find a fuse panel totally obscured with stuff hanging in front of it. It was fed from the bottom. That explains how I got the switched and switched circuits. It also provided me with a for sure neutral, not just a white wire I was hoping was a neutral.
Re-checked. When lights were on, no voltage from switch to N on any terminal. When lights were off, 120 on all terminals to N.
Then a light in my head comes on. I have seen this before. Using a hot terminal in the fuse box, I verified my suspicion. The switch was switching the neutral, and the hot was present all the time at the lights. This was verified by my tick tracer.
So that is another piece of the puzzle. But what about the fact that the inside switch was only working as a single pole?
Since I was more concerned about the switched neutral, I got my sister to the garage and showed her, using the tick tracer, that there was still a hot wire at the lights when they were OFF and I needed to come back and fix that. I also told her I had to figure out why the inside switch all of a sudden stopped working like a 3-way.
She thinks about it for a minute and says, 'It's always been like that.' At least as long as she lived there.
When I go back to fix the switched neutral issue, I think I will make a video of the strange voltage readings a switched neutral can produce, and how such a scheme affects my trusty tick tracer. It's pretty bizarre seeing a voltage reading disappear when the load is switched ON and come back when it is switched OFF.
Also, my DVOM read the usual phantom voltages on the circuit so I am going to also bring along my solenoid tester and show how it is not tricked by phantom voltages.
This was a fun one. Although a bit frustrating, it was a good mental workout on a nice spring day.
Simple swap, right?
Wrong.
I pulled out the old switch and all the terminals were the same color. I couldn't ring it out because it showed open all around when the switch was in one position due to the burnt contact.
OK, no problem, I will just figure out which wire has a load on it. I found it and connected that to the common. Turned power back on and to make sure of things, yes, new switch works great. Then I went in and turned the switch in the house off. Switch in garage wouldn't turn lights on. Double checked, switch in house is a 3 way. So I look to see how the garage switch is wired. Now, in addition to this switch, there was also unswitched loads. I could hear the refrigerator running and it stayed on when the lights were off. The overhead only had three wires, not enough for a switched three way along with an unswitched circuit. The messenger wire was not part of the circuit and wasn't grounded. To make things more fun, the wires on the outside of the garage were spliced to a white, a black and a blue. Inside, I had no white. I had red, black and blue. After some serious head scratching I figured out the 'white' wire was actually the red wire bleached white by the sun.
So I decide to check to see which terminals are hot with my trusty Greenlee tick tracer, which works VERY well. When the lights were on, there was no indication of power at all from my tracer. Also no 'real' voltage at all from white wires in box to any terminal when the lights were on using my DVOM.
Now am I really cornfused. So I start hand tracing cables and lo and behold, right next to me I find a fuse panel totally obscured with stuff hanging in front of it. It was fed from the bottom. That explains how I got the switched and switched circuits. It also provided me with a for sure neutral, not just a white wire I was hoping was a neutral.
Re-checked. When lights were on, no voltage from switch to N on any terminal. When lights were off, 120 on all terminals to N.
Then a light in my head comes on. I have seen this before. Using a hot terminal in the fuse box, I verified my suspicion. The switch was switching the neutral, and the hot was present all the time at the lights. This was verified by my tick tracer.
So that is another piece of the puzzle. But what about the fact that the inside switch was only working as a single pole?
Since I was more concerned about the switched neutral, I got my sister to the garage and showed her, using the tick tracer, that there was still a hot wire at the lights when they were OFF and I needed to come back and fix that. I also told her I had to figure out why the inside switch all of a sudden stopped working like a 3-way.
She thinks about it for a minute and says, 'It's always been like that.' At least as long as she lived there.
When I go back to fix the switched neutral issue, I think I will make a video of the strange voltage readings a switched neutral can produce, and how such a scheme affects my trusty tick tracer. It's pretty bizarre seeing a voltage reading disappear when the load is switched ON and come back when it is switched OFF.
Also, my DVOM read the usual phantom voltages on the circuit so I am going to also bring along my solenoid tester and show how it is not tricked by phantom voltages.
This was a fun one. Although a bit frustrating, it was a good mental workout on a nice spring day.