Small Cooktop Disconnect

Status
Not open for further replies.
infinity

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I just looked at one of these (this is a stock product photo) installed in a countertop. The unit is shipped with a whip for hard wiring (see spec sheet). Shouldn't it have a disconnecting means?

IMAGE_C_2.jpg


http://www.dwyerproducts.com/Documents/Specifications/Cooktop_2 Burner_208 Volt.pdf
 
I think 422.31(B) would apply.


Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower. For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 hp, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed.
 
Have installed numerous cooktops & built in ovens, all that has ever been required is a breaker

lock. My question is where to locate the disconnect ? In the cabinet next to the cooktop,

in the cabinet adjacent to the oven ? I do not want to work on a disconnect located in any

cabinet. Hence by default we end up using the breaker as our disconnect.
 
These units have a 3' whip that is hardwired to a junction box below the unit. IMO the box needs either a two pole switch to comply with Article 422 or the aforementioned breaker lockout. The panel is located remotely so it's not within sight.
 
John120/240 said:
A two pole switch with an industrial cover would work nice for the cooktop. Where to locate the

switch for built in ovens ?
Click to expand...

In the base cabinet.................wait a minute is this a trick question?
 
edward said:
In the base cabinet.................wait a minute is this a trick question?
Click to expand...

Where ever the disconnect is located, the oven manufacturers need to get on board & provide

enough whip to reach the desiried location. So the disconnect is in the adjacent cabinet with

pots, pans, & skillets. I would still go to the panel & kill power before I would unload pots, pans,

& skillets.
 
I'll take a closer look tomorrow. This is a mockup for a 140 unit building so the bugs need to be ironed out now. :)
 
I figured that you don't mind me to drop in here for a moment to give you some idea along the way.

I do understand that the NEC 422.31(B) do address this situation and few readers mention the most common methold is breaker lock out that useally do in most case but the issue is some local code addement that do may show up which it will required a local disconnect switch so either a general purpose two pole disconnect switch or a 20 amp rated two pole snap switch will suit the purpose for local disconnection.

I did took a peek of the specs and they did come with 3 feet whip so that is useally plenty for most case.

However if you going to ask me about our French regulations belive or not it almost parallel with your codes but with all hardwired device must have a local disconnecting means as I mention above. We can use the breaker lock out as well but our NF do required local disconnect means and the hardwired verison that do address both monophase and triphase supply for cooktop and oven units ( as well for full size range ) but we do allow cord with plug only with monophase.

Merci,
Marc
 
Would it be possible to install a receptacle & put a cord cap on the end of the whip.:? Cost more than a breaker lock out but right there at the appliance.
 
The original plans called for a 208v, 20 amp receptacle and the unit being cord and plug connected. The unit comes with a 3/8" FMC whip with the condcutors already factory wired waiting to be terminated in a junction box. I suggested a 2 pole switch in the JB and call it a day. We'll have to see what the designers have to say. :roll:
 
You may also want to look at 422.34(A). Do these cooktops have a marked "OFF" position on their switches? Do they disconnect all ungrounded conductors from the cooktop?
 
suemarkp said:
You may also want to look at 422.34(A). Do these cooktops have a marked "OFF" position on their switches? Do they disconnect all ungrounded conductors from the cooktop?
Click to expand...

Suemarkp.,

Well one thing about the glasstop burners I know it have rotary control knob which it will go to off postion however there is one other sticky item is they will have a addtional warning lamp it will glow when the countertop burner is still very warm or hot and sometime it will say " hot " or other words.

Just let ya know about it.

Merci,
Marc
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top